I'd always thought the "slimfit" was vanity termed, so bigger guys could say "hey I can fit into a slimfit shirt now"

In all honestly Black Fleece worn at suggested chest size isn't as slim fit as a lot of skinny guys prefer their shirts.  I have a 31" waist but I have come to enjoy the little bit of extra material . Maybe its so many years of wearing such tight fitting shirts that makes the change a welcome one. That being said Black Fleece are still quite a bit slimmer than Brooks Slim Fit. I will give the extra slim fit a look if they offer the Made in the USA oxfords in that cut.

it depends on your physique.  the normal Brooks traditional cut is just way too baggy when the neck/shoulders are sized to fit correctly, on me.  I have a hard time believing the current traditional fit offering is what Brooks used to make in their heyday, as they've surely adjusted to the fattening of typical American men in their shirt sizing.  I used to buy shit-ton of vintage shirts from 50s/60s (not Brooks but stuff like Mr California, Sir Guy etc) and nothing in a size Med from then fits like what Brooks currently sells as a "medium"

just a note, the extra slimfit is not skin tight, the size Med sport shirt and 15/33 dress shirt (both are sized similar) fits slimly tailored but is not tight at all, there's room to make it even more fitted if one wanted, but as a relaxed slim fitting shirt goes, it's quite a nice cut and enough room for dessert.

Last edited by Get Smart (2009-11-06 14:36:39)

Yeah I could understand that. When I am referring to fit its all a matter of degree to me. I have an eight inch chest/waist drop so any RTW shirt is going to be a little loose through the torso.  The difference I am talking about is between a Band of Outsiders shirt, and Black Fleece/Gitman shirt fit. Slim and slightly boxy is now my preference as opposed to rear darts and extremely close fitting. I will wear Brooks Slim Fit but it's pretty damn loose on me. The traditional fit is out of the question. And as to GS' statement about how much bigger shirts fit now as opposed to the past I think it depends on brand. I have had plenty of older Brooks shirts and for the most part they are extremely full cut. That doesn't mean, however, that the Ivy look always required the full cut. Plenty of shirt makers did a much slimmer cut.  Our fearless leader points out often that there is pictorial evidence for nearly every type of cut in the Ivy timeline, I think The Look's blog bears this out.

I dont like all these different distinctions of fit....at the end of the day there is only one fit and that is the PROPER fit, in terms of an idealized sense of proportion and ratio based on the wearer.  of course there is subjectivity to how loose or fitted a garment is but the range of Proper fit shouldnt be that huge.  A Brooks traditional fit in a size small is in no way the proper fit for me.  Neither is their slim fit.  The extra slim fit I think is a good fit for what would be deemed correct on me, but it's not because I'm trying to look fashiony, it's just the way a shirt should fit so it doesnt billow out like a tent and all the proportions from neck to shoulder to chest to torso to sleeve are all within this idealized framework.

^Cool indeed.  I've noticed Miles in the '50's was always wearing baggy shirts.  And there is a certain style to a baggy and boxy shirt, it has a certain style and masculine charisma....in some cases. It is indeed probably a more Ivy silhouette, as Hard Bop Hank points out.  I'm waiting on an order from Mercer with the full 'baggy is better' versions, so I will see.

Its always annoying when a slimmer fit shirt is automatically described as "more modern" and "fashion fit", like who gives a fuck?

I got a lot of tailor made shirts that I hardly wear anymore, because I got them made extremely fitted... I could wear them for a year and a half maybe, and it was a great look, I thought... I just don't feel comfortable in those shirts anymore... and comfort is what I'm looking for in a shirt, or in clothes in general, but especially in a button down shirt. I used to think that it's all about aesthetics, but what I didn't realize, was the fact that comfort is part of aesthetics, too. You look ten times better if you feel comfortable and relaxed.

Sometimes, at a mod do, or a soul allnighter I'm the only one who's wearing a baggy shirt, but I can really move! Some tight arse mods in their stiff, tight clothes just stand around in the corner... That's also the reason why I can't stand a sewn down box pleat, anymore.... If it is sewn down, it's not really functional, is it?

I'm not saying that I'm completely against slim fit shirts. One of my mates is so skinny, he definitely needs a slim fit one, but I don't think there is just one proper fit. Of course, it's a matter of taste, too. However, one should always consider comfort as well. Otherwise you don't look natural, and that's what it's all about.