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#1 2009-11-10 04:35:30

Gibson Gardens
Ivy Author
Posts: 873

The Burberry Trenchcoat

Help me here. The key characters who got me into Ivy League, that is John Simons, Ian Strachan, Ken Lovegrove, Graham Marsh, Theo de Rose, John Lally, they all ADORE the Burberry Trenchcoat, viewing it as the ultimate raincoat, the essence of a certain kind of cinematic style. They are very specific in the model they like, I think it's the Trench 21, which is of course made in the UK (Hackney) but is not sold in the UK but exported to the US, Italy and Japan. But this item causes me problems because the minimalist in me hates this coat. I find it vulgar and ugly, even in the purist version so admired by my Ivy idols. On everything else sartorial I find myself just instinctively with them but not here - I really really dislike this coat. Is it me, or is it them? Is this coat Ivy?

GG

 

#2 2009-11-10 05:07:07

Moose Maclennan
Ivy Inspiration
From: Hernando's Hideaway
Posts: 4577

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat

Somebody once noted that wearers of double-breasted trench coats looked like 'damaged parcels', an image that has stayed with me.

I do however like the plain fly-front SB Burberry raincoats very much - I remember lusting after one in Jenners around 1985. 165 pounds if I remember correctly. An astronomical amount for me at the time.

 

#3 2009-11-10 05:08:33

Natural Sole Brother
Ivy, naturally.
Posts: 782

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat

Go with the flow, G. They're a classic thing. I've owned many great single breasted raincoats from Burberrys, Aquascutum and Grenfell but while I've never worn a trench I can appreciate them. I think they look better on women than on men in the main though: must be the belted waist thing.

My personal black beast is the three-quarter length or shortie raincoat. Mean and impractical. The badge of a scoundrel.

 

#4 2009-11-10 07:01:49

Big Tony
Member
Posts: 5478

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat


"What sort of post-apocalyptic deathscape is this?"
"I don't want to look like a cock hungry sailor after all !!!"
"When it comes to infidelity, broken families, and reckless fatherhood, the underclass are amateurs."

 

#5 2009-11-10 07:22:16

Staceyboy
Ivy Archivist
Posts: 936

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat


http://thetownoutside.tumblr.com

 

#6 2009-11-10 08:13:59

Natural Sole Brother
Ivy, naturally.
Posts: 782

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat

While I don't think of them as a purely 'Ivy' thing they would have been part of the mix. One of the blogs featured the 1954 Press catalogue and the range of raincoats offered were typically full length, single-breasted, raglan sleeved with military collar in cotton and gabardine versions. These would be the Ivy Standard for me personally. The trench is mentioned but not illustrated.

I think a lack of love for the trenchcoat is common among many with 'mod' roots or leanings. Not meant in a pejorative way.

Last edited by Natural Sole Brother (2009-11-10 08:27:14)

 

#7 2009-11-10 08:22:35

Natural Sole Brother
Ivy, naturally.
Posts: 782

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat

 

#8 2009-11-10 10:49:40

Staceyboy
Ivy Archivist
Posts: 936

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat

^ Lovely ad NSB. Thanks for posting. Do you know when it dates from?  I've got a mid 1960's Burberry same as no.6 in Ivory. Interesting - didn't know that the lining was called 'Paddock' check. Mine being a nice combination of chocolate brown and black.

Staceyboy


http://thetownoutside.tumblr.com

 

#9 2009-11-10 11:28:49

Natural Sole Brother
Ivy, naturally.
Posts: 782

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat

Spring /Summer 1954 Stacey.

Burberrys outerwear was really special in those days, I think. Even by the time I was wearing the coats (mid-80s) the stuff was, while still well made, slightly fusty. The Burberrys of the immediate postwar period had far more élan, somehow.

I wonder if anyone can comment on how those coats would be priced in today's currency.

 

#10 2009-11-10 12:18:39

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat

 

#11 2009-11-10 12:45:05

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat

I 'ad a Trench from Petticoat Lane - Polish it was. I was thinking of Dexter Gordon at the time.

http://www.popsike.com/pix/20081203/310105828546.jpg

Then I graduated to the fly front mac - Less is more!

 

#12 2009-11-10 13:27:06

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat

Blue gabardine fly front macs were all the rage before Crombies.

Cloth never wrinkled like cotton or poly cotton. Superb quality and a practical colour- a great drinking coat.

 

#13 2009-11-11 00:22:25

heikki k
The Ivyist's Ivyist
Posts: 1442

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat

 

#14 2009-11-11 03:46:58

Staceyboy
Ivy Archivist
Posts: 936

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat

^ Yes, I don't what it is but I've always loved the look of them. Probably since buying an absolutely beautiful 1950's American 'Alligator' gab mac in London in the late 1970's. A tan/green 'Tonik' type sheen to the fabric. In 'as new' condition. Within a month I'd screen printed photos onto the front of it thinking it would look 'great'. In my mind it did – but only for about a month at which point I'd realised I'd ruined a fantastic coat. A lesson learned!

Staceyboy


http://thetownoutside.tumblr.com

 

#15 2009-11-11 04:06:57

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat

Last edited by Russell_Street (2009-11-11 04:09:12)

 

#16 2010-06-18 13:06:50

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat

I bought one about 14 years ago for a quid - British Heart Foundation - and wore it and wore it till I put on weight.  I now wear a single-breasted and I'm very happy with it.  I'd like a 21.  Own an ancient Baracuta with a liner, which comes out in foul weather.  About 15 dollars on Ebay before the Yank postal rates went sky-high. 

On the whole, though, less is more.

More importantly, Burberry, like Fred Perry maybe, needs reclaiming from the chavvies.  Same with Lacoste.

 

#17 2010-06-18 13:32:48

Harpo
The Best In The West
From: West Wales
Posts: 3394

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat

I'll take a mac over a trencoat any day of the week - though I've always loved that picture of Dexter (and indeed the album!). I've got a Baracuta raglan sleeved full length one in a sort of British khaki - 60's vintage I think (£10 - dont think it was ever worn) which is very nice. But my favourite is an ivory Grenfell - gorgeous it is - sold to me by John Simons during a heat wave! I'd only gone in to buy a pair of black weejuns........ it caught my eye just as I was leaving the shop - "It might not be here next time you come in" he said as I ummed and ahhed. Sold! He knows when you need to own something that man.


Randy lower-class trifler

 

#18 2010-06-18 15:26:16

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat

Grenfell is top class.

 

#19 2010-06-20 03:46:10

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat

I think I see the difficulty.  The trenchcoat is more 'style' perhaps than purist Ivy.  No problem there so long as you're in tune with the mix.  Bogart and Mitchum are still major players for some - maybe more so than McQueen and Newman.  It's that black and white film noir look.  I prefer the pre-war French cinema - Jean Gabin etc.  The association could be with padded shoulders and two-tone shoes, fatter ties and a slouch hat.  More Ronnie Scott and Dankworth than east coast/west coast cool?  The fly-fronted, worn or folded over the arm, is terrific: Cecil Gee, Soho modernist.  Here we find the 'blurring' that gives Ivy in London an edgy, eclectic feel.  I like to call it 'layering'.  The mind retains layers of information that inform the body, hopefully ensuring a 'correct' look.  The lines, the colouring - the 'less is more' ethos.  Too many buckles and rings can detract.

I'd still like a 21, though.

 

#20 2010-06-20 07:29:03

macabee
Member
Posts: 228

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat


"One martini is all right. Two are too many, and three are not enough"
James Thurber

 

#21 2011-10-12 04:16:38

Andy_B
Ivy Realist
Posts: 2097

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat

Bump.  E might care to look this over.

 

#22 2011-10-12 12:08:39

Madras_Seersucker
Member
Posts: 363

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat

Last edited by Madras_Seersucker (2011-10-12 12:09:08)

 

#23 2011-10-12 12:36:26

Andy_B
Ivy Realist
Posts: 2097

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat

I wish I still had my £1 bargain from all those years ago.  Alas, I grew too fat.

 

#24 2012-02-04 15:48:05

Big Tony
Member
Posts: 5478

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat


"What sort of post-apocalyptic deathscape is this?"
"I don't want to look like a cock hungry sailor after all !!!"
"When it comes to infidelity, broken families, and reckless fatherhood, the underclass are amateurs."

 

#25 2012-02-04 19:54:47

oxford cloth button down
Member
Posts: 1302

Re: The Burberry Trenchcoat

Thanks for posting those pics Natural Sole Brother. I have been wanting a raincoat like that, but being shorter I am a little self conscious. There is this very traditional older man (in his eighties) that works in a building that I used to work in and seeing him wear his Burberry trench almost daily from fall to spring convinced me of their merit.

 

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