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#1 2010-01-21 16:52:32

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7908

When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Although a full review will need to await the fit photo, these fabrics are a good starting point. Due to the size of the pattern and it's color, this is a material that could easily be mistaken for a woman's suit. The burgundy lining only enhances that feminine image. Perhaps the owner had this desired effect in mind but the problem is he chose a heavy, dowdy looking version. This is a suit I could easily picture Janet Reno wearing.

The half lining is another bad idea, a way that many who never had access to custom clothes get in the early stages. Te theory is that it is harder to make a jacket like this because it exposes the inner hand work which needs to be clean of loose strings. In practice this is a stick to your shirt material nightmare which gets worse in humid weather in a spot like, oh, rural Alabama.

In this instance, the inside of the jacket is a pattern matching mess.

The patch pockets are another bad style and these in particular are poorly designed. If the wearer is short, the heavy horizontal element of the check might call attention to that. But that is trivial in comparison.

There are more pattern and styling issues but to e fair to the owner, let's wait for the jacket to be posed with him wearing it.


http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/8091/p1010498qe.jpg

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/9752/p1010499r.jpg


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#2 2010-01-21 17:05:50

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 10765

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Looks like a suit my grand-ma used to wear. Dowdy is the word. l hope he lives in the country, l couldn't imagine men wearing that in the city.

Stylish farmer suit, but oh that clashing lining. Colour blind perhaps?

Film Noir Buff wrote:

The burgundy lining only enhances that feminine image.

Like l said, it looks like a patterned suit my grandmother used to wear.


That's his taste, good luck to him.

Last edited by The_Shooman (2010-01-21 17:14:03)


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#3 2010-01-21 17:22:37

maximus
Member
Posts: 265

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Click on the image for my first impression.

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/thumbs/6_1179562847219wo8.gif

I really have some catching up to do 'round here. Where did you find this suit?


I shall commission a suit:

So let it Bespoken
So let it be done!

 

#4 2010-01-22 15:52:42

formby
Member
From: Old Sarum
Posts: 5956

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Film Noir Buff wrote:

Although a full review will need to await the fit photo, these fabrics are a good starting point. Due to the size of the pattern and it's color, this is a material that could easily be mistaken for a woman's suit. The burgundy lining only enhances that feminine image. Perhaps the owner had this desired effect in mind but the problem is he chose a heavy, dowdy looking version. This is a suit I could easily picture Janet Reno wearing.

The half lining is another bad idea, a way that many who never had access to custom clothes get in the early stages. Te theory is that it is harder to make a jacket like this because it exposes the inner hand work which needs to be clean of loose strings. In practice this is a stick to your shirt material nightmare which gets worse in humid weather in a spot like, oh, rural Alabama.

In this instance, the inside of the jacket is a pattern matching mess.

The patch pockets are another bad style and these in particular are poorly designed. If the wearer is short, the heavy horizontal element of the check might call attention to that. But that is trivial in comparison.

There are more pattern and styling issues but to e fair to the owner, let's wait for the jacket to be posed with him wearing it.


http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/8091/p1010498qe.jpg

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/9752/p1010499r.jpg

The cloth looks a little washed out for my taste. I prefer a darker, richer brown. Pattern's, OK ish.

I don't mind the lining colour. However, that looks like a heavy cloth, Tweed?  If it is, I don't see the point in getting a partially lined coat in a heavy cloth or a tweed like cloth, a porous Fresco, that makes some sense, but not a Tweed. The lining also seems to be silk, which again seems contradictory.

We await, with baited breath, a picture of the fella wearing it.....ohhh!!!! the excitement.


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#5 2010-01-24 03:43:15

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

I remember seeing pics of this gray double breasted that had to be one of the ugliest suits I have seen on the forums. The back was particularly atrocious. More recent pics show how the "house style" with full sleeves just doesn't do any favors to some physiques.


"Luxury is a necessity that begins where necessity ends" Coco Chanel
"A man cannot be born a tailor, but he can be born rich. The patrimony can be inherited, but not the art." Giancarlo Maresca

 

#6 2010-01-24 10:32:26

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7908

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

formby wrote:

Film Noir Buff wrote:

Although a full review will need to await the fit photo, these fabrics are a good starting point. Due to the size of the pattern and it's color, this is a material that could easily be mistaken for a woman's suit. The burgundy lining only enhances that feminine image. Perhaps the owner had this desired effect in mind but the problem is he chose a heavy, dowdy looking version. This is a suit I could easily picture Janet Reno wearing.

The half lining is another bad idea, a way that many who never had access to custom clothes get in the early stages. Te theory is that it is harder to make a jacket like this because it exposes the inner hand work which needs to be clean of loose strings. In practice this is a stick to your shirt material nightmare which gets worse in humid weather in a spot like, oh, rural Alabama.

In this instance, the inside of the jacket is a pattern matching mess.

The patch pockets are another bad style and these in particular are poorly designed. If the wearer is short, the heavy horizontal element of the check might call attention to that. But that is trivial in comparison.

There are more pattern and styling issues but to e fair to the owner, let's wait for the jacket to be posed with him wearing it.


http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/8091/p1010498qe.jpg

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/9752/p1010499r.jpg

The cloth looks a little washed out for my taste. I prefer a darker, richer brown. Pattern's, OK ish.

I don't mind the lining colour. However, that looks like a heavy cloth, Tweed?  If it is, I don't see the point in getting a partially lined coat in a heavy cloth or a tweed like cloth, a porous Fresco, that makes some sense, but not a Tweed. The lining also seems to be silk, which again seems contradictory.

We await, with baited breath, a picture of the fella wearing it.....ohhh!!!! the excitement.

I dont think it's ever a good idea to get a half lined coat but especially true for a fabric like this which would call for more and not less lining; including fully lined trousers.

The lining color is alright from a contrast point of view but with this particular jacket and in a feminine satin, it looks like a blouse a woman would wear with a suit like that.


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#7 2010-01-24 10:40:13

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7908

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

At some point I should take some shots of my midnight blue chalkie with scarlet paisley lining; though not in this thread wink


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#8 2010-01-24 10:53:29

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7908

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

These are by Mahon?
I originally spotted these and thought I can never get enough of that tragic LL triple reverse lindy windowpane but then I noticed the ugly boutonniere on the other one and the generally klunky construction.


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#9 2010-01-24 11:46:53

formby
Member
From: Old Sarum
Posts: 5956

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Film Noir Buff wrote:

These are by Mahon?
I originally spotted these and thought I can never get enough of that tragic LL triple reverse lindy windowpane but then I noticed the ugly boutonniere on the other one and the generally klunky construction.

Eh...!!!


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#10 2010-01-24 20:53:19

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7908

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

formby wrote:

Film Noir Buff wrote:

These are by Mahon?
I originally spotted these and thought I can never get enough of that tragic LL triple reverse lindy windowpane but then I noticed the ugly boutonniere on the other one and the generally klunky construction.

Eh...!!!

Heh, forgot to include the link


http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php? … tcount=499


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#11 2010-01-24 21:45:57

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7908

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php? … tcount=503

I'll bet he couldn't walk a straight line in this. It looks like the jacket is struggling to get off him.


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#12 2010-01-24 22:51:02

JDelage
Member
From: Seattle, WA
Posts: 646

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

That POW fabric looks nice.

I don't understand the fascination with ticket pockets.  They're pretty much useless for most people, especially in the US.  Even in Paris or London, why would you need a separate pocket for your ticket?  And an outside pocket on the jacket is actually not that convenient a pocket to reach if you are wearing a coat (which you would most of the year in London).  I just don't get them.

I think it adds un-needed clutter to a jacket.


The greatest productive force is human selfishness.

Robert A. Heinlein

 

#13 2010-01-25 06:00:21

Jeeves
The Gentleman's Gentleman
Posts: 420

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

JDelage wrote:

I don't understand the fascination with ticket pockets.  They're pretty much useless for most people, especially in the US.  Even in Paris or London, why would you need a separate pocket for your ticket?  And an outside pocket on the jacket is actually not that convenient a pocket to reach if you are wearing a coat (which you would most of the year in London).  I just don't get them.

I think it adds un-needed clutter to a jacket.

I think they mess up the lines as well although I actually like to have somewhere to keep tickets so I add a small inside pocket below the buttoning point for tickets and mobile phone. This proves the utility, keeps the lines clean, and avoids creating unsightly bulges. I think there are some, not all, who get a ticket pocket thinking they because they can have it they should rather than asking what image they want.

 

#14 2010-01-25 07:06:20

AQG
Member
From: The Sticks
Posts: 1304

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

I like ticket pockets precisely because they mess up the lines.  The element of asymetry appeal to me.


"AGQ, although your clobber is decent on the eye, it's so f*ckin bland, it's scary... You could get a bus down your trousers and it's standard vulture capitalist stylee to my eye."

The Style Councillor

 

#15 2010-01-25 07:51:51

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7908

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

I feel better about posting this considering he is a content appropriator:


http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/1492/unabashedlyprep.jpg

Here's my analysis, note iamatt is a little out of touch, most of his eBuddies spend an awful lof of time checking each others bodies out:

http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php? … tcount=914

Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt 
Does it really look any different if you are not spending your life appraising the garments of other men, though? I think it probably looks more like Brooks Brothers than anything else, hardly controversial in any way.



FNB pointed out:I guess the Rubinacci look isn't typically Neapolitan, at least not the examples Ive seen on the usual suspects on here. However, the typical Neapolitan shoulder has nothing to do with the Brooks Brothers shoulder. The Naples natural shoulder is "garbage". Poorly defined and sloppy.

I'm looking at a double breasted Rubinacci in a grey flannel and it has a one button stance at the hip pockets, like an Armani style of the past, except Armani had a low gorge and this jacket has a high one. The very long lapel with buttons breaking at the hip is an old fashioned look; the high gorge makes it a contradiction in tastes.

The low pockets are also dowdy. The fact that the jacket is too tight across the hips also makes the jacket look messy. Worse, is the fact that the jacket looks like it was severely cut short to fit a child. From a custom point of view, that would be a rip off.

The suit has an Italian straight shoulder (which isn't bad but it's not Rubinacci or at least not Neapolitan more Armani) with high armholes. The sleeves are too billowy.

The pants look ridiculous for a whole other set of reasons.


In any case, this is not a good suit to be taken seriously in in NYC.


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#16 2010-01-25 07:54:45

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7908

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

JDelage wrote:

That POW fabric looks nice.

I don't understand the fascination with ticket pockets.  They're pretty much useless for most people, especially in the US.  Even in Paris or London, why would you need a separate pocket for your ticket?  And an outside pocket on the jacket is actually not that convenient a pocket to reach if you are wearing a coat (which you would most of the year in London).  I just don't get them.

I think it adds un-needed clutter to a jacket.

Really? take a closer look. The construction of the back of this suit is heavy, klunky, Especially, the upper back and rear sleeve area.

http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/5597/aymahonsuit.jpg


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#17 2010-01-25 08:06:01

JDelage
Member
From: Seattle, WA
Posts: 646

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

FNB - my comment was meant to say that I like the fabric, the cloth.


The greatest productive force is human selfishness.

Robert A. Heinlein

 

#18 2010-01-25 10:22:38

Tailoring Police
Member
Posts: 287

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

I believe this is Rubinacci's handiwork

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/4131/p1010513z.jpg

 

#19 2010-01-25 11:07:43

formby
Member
From: Old Sarum
Posts: 5956

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Film Noir Buff wrote:

JDelage wrote:

That POW fabric looks nice.

I don't understand the fascination with ticket pockets.  They're pretty much useless for most people, especially in the US.  Even in Paris or London, why would you need a separate pocket for your ticket?  And an outside pocket on the jacket is actually not that convenient a pocket to reach if you are wearing a coat (which you would most of the year in London).  I just don't get them.

I think it adds un-needed clutter to a jacket.

Really? take a closer look. The construction of the back of this suit is heavy, klunky, Especially, the upper back and rear sleeve area.

http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/5597/aymahonsuit.jpg

All the Mahon's I've seen, up close and personal are like that, messy at the back, you can literally grab a fistful of cloth.

I don't mind the cloth, but nor does it excite me either.

I think he cuts a nice peaked lapel though.

Last edited by formby (2010-01-25 11:09:39)


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#20 2010-01-25 11:19:12

formby
Member
From: Old Sarum
Posts: 5956

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

AQG wrote:

I like ticket pockets precisely because they mess up the lines.  The element of asymetry appeal to me.

There was a chap on London Lounge who as one of his arguments against ticket pockets offered up was that they add asymmetry to the coat. I wonder if he removes the breast pocket as well. !!!!


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#21 2010-01-25 11:48:57

Bishop of Briggs
Member
Posts: 3185

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Film Noir Buff wrote:

JDelage wrote:

That POW fabric looks nice.

I don't understand the fascination with ticket pockets.  They're pretty much useless for most people, especially in the US.  Even in Paris or London, why would you need a separate pocket for your ticket?  And an outside pocket on the jacket is actually not that convenient a pocket to reach if you are wearing a coat (which you would most of the year in London).  I just don't get them.

I think it adds un-needed clutter to a jacket.

Really? take a closer look. The construction of the back of this suit is heavy, klunky, Especially, the upper back and rear sleeve area.

http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/5597/aymahonsuit.jpg

I highlighted that Mahon suit on the A&S dissected thread and made similar comments to yours on the LL thread - http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi … ;start=15.

 

#22 2010-01-25 11:49:58

Bishop of Briggs
Member
Posts: 3185

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

formby wrote:

Film Noir Buff wrote:

JDelage wrote:

That POW fabric looks nice.

I don't understand the fascination with ticket pockets.  They're pretty much useless for most people, especially in the US.  Even in Paris or London, why would you need a separate pocket for your ticket?  And an outside pocket on the jacket is actually not that convenient a pocket to reach if you are wearing a coat (which you would most of the year in London).  I just don't get them.

I think it adds un-needed clutter to a jacket.

Really? take a closer look. The construction of the back of this suit is heavy, klunky, Especially, the upper back and rear sleeve area.

http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/5597/aymahonsuit.jpg

All the Mahon's I've seen, up close and personal are like that, messy at the back, you can literally grab a fistful of cloth.

I don't mind the cloth, but nor does it excite me either.

I think he cuts a nice peaked lapel though.

Does Edwin de Boise cut a leaner coat?

 

#23 2010-01-25 11:56:38

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7908

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Bishop of Briggs wrote:

formby wrote:

Film Noir Buff wrote:


Really? take a closer look. The construction of the back of this suit is heavy, klunky, Especially, the upper back and rear sleeve area.

http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/5597/aymahonsuit.jpg

All the Mahon's I've seen, up close and personal are like that, messy at the back, you can literally grab a fistful of cloth.

I don't mind the cloth, but nor does it excite me either.

I think he cuts a nice peaked lapel though.

Does Edwin de Boise cut a leaner coat?

Mickey Mouse cuts a leaner coat.


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#24 2010-01-25 12:13:22

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7908

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Tailoring Police wrote:

I believe this is Rubinacci's handiwork

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/4131/p1010513z.jpg

Be careful with this one, he threatened to sucker punch me; he's a baaad man. Although considering he comes up to about my knee caps, i shudder to think what he might suck-er punch.


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#25 2010-01-25 13:06:47

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

formby wrote:

AQG wrote:

I like ticket pockets precisely because they mess up the lines.  The element of asymetry appeal to me.

There was a chap on London Lounge who as one of his arguments against ticket pockets offered up was that they add asymmetry to the coat. I wonder if he removes the breast pocket as well. !!!!

I'm guessing he doesn't dress to the right or left.  Ouch!


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

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