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#1 2010-01-24 13:08:46
- Just Jim
- Member
- Posts: 1159
The Box Pleat.
Very Ivy.
But how do you wear yours?
I have had shirts laundered in the past which have returned with the pleat pressed in right down to the shirt tails (or is shirt tails all one word?).
Equally I have worn them at half press & quarter press. Today my BD is un-ironed and so the pleat is little more than a couple of tucks between my shoulders.
It's all good.
What do you do/like?
http://customhongkongtailor.com/images/backs/BPB_Box_Pleat_Back.jpg
#3 2010-01-24 15:12:14
- TheWeejun
- Member
- Posts: 946
Re: The Box Pleat.
the Box pleat is de riguer for me. Always has been.
However, I'm wearing a knock about shirt right now that has two shoulder pleats and I'm sitting here thinking I should unpick the stitching and reconfigure it into a box pleat. The fabric of the shirt (dress gordon flannel) is so nice that I may even tweak the shirt further and build a BD collar for it. Some practice for eventually making that shirt from scratch.
We have the technology. We can rebuild you.
"Mr. Weejun is a beast." 1966
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#4 2010-01-27 06:56:46
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Re: The Box Pleat.
just as long as it's not sewn down...
I mean, what's its function, if it's swen down...
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#5 2010-01-27 06:59:13
- TheWeejun
- Member
- Posts: 946
Re: The Box Pleat.
Yeah or those funny ones with a kind of stitched box with an X in it where it starts at the yoke. Prevelant in 80s bad preppy styles
"Mr. Weejun is a beast." 1966
www.theweejun.com
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#6 2010-01-27 07:49:12
- Taylor McIntyre
- Son of Ivy...
- Posts: 342
Re: The Box Pleat.
And then there was the inverted box pleat in the 80's - Remember those? The pleat was kinda inside the shirt back to front. Not right.
#7 2010-01-27 07:49:57
- TheWeejun
- Member
- Posts: 946
Re: The Box Pleat.
yup, sometimes sewn in too so that it opened only 3/4 way down the shirt. nasty.
"Mr. Weejun is a beast." 1966
www.theweejun.com
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#8 2010-01-27 09:10:22
- 1966
- 1,966% Ivy
- Posts: 2382
Re: The Box Pleat.
I'm wearing an older Brooks Brothers slim fit Obsessive Compulsive Button Down today, it has no pleat(s). I don't mind. Love a box pleat though.
#9 2010-01-27 09:27:11
- TheWeejun
- Member
- Posts: 946
Re: The Box Pleat.
Yes, the original Brooks 'polo' shirt as I understand it had no box pleat. When you see button downs in 1940s movies on people like gregory peck they didn't have box pleats at all.
Maybe someone knows when this was introduced?
"Mr. Weejun is a beast." 1966
www.theweejun.com
theweejun.tumblr.com
#10 2010-01-27 09:47:19
- Taylor McIntyre
- Son of Ivy...
- Posts: 342
Re: The Box Pleat.
In the 80's slim fits didn't have the box pleat, just the classics did.
#11 2010-01-27 09:55:57
- 1966
- 1,966% Ivy
- Posts: 2382
Re: The Box Pleat.
^ Come to think of it it makes sense, the classics probably need that pleat in their tent-like construction.
#12 2010-02-14 13:33:36
- Horace
- Member
- Posts: 6432
Re: The Box Pleat.
CD on the box pleat: Good for the BD collar, else the 2 darts equidistant from the ends.
""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.
#13 2010-02-14 14:18:49
- Kingstonian
- Member
- From: sea to shining sea
- Posts: 3205
Re: The Box Pleat.
I like the pleat with no ironed edges. So it just folds in because there is a pleat there.
#14 2010-02-15 08:19:51
- Get Smart
- Member
- Posts: 1106
Re: The Box Pleat.
I like the sewn down box pleat. Looks neater than a normal one which just opens up/billows out onto the rest of the shirt. Of course it's not functional, but I dont need the box pleat to be functional. Plus it's all part of my bias as a correct "skinhead shirt"
#15 2010-02-15 09:02:47
- trojanskin
- New member
- Posts: 3
Re: The Box Pleat.
I gotta agree with Get Smart. As far as I can tell, the Box Pleat serves no function. Fully sewn in for me......true Skinhead style
#17 2010-02-15 10:25:59
- claudio
- Member
- Posts: 44
Re: The Box Pleat.
surely fully sewn in, back AND front, for all my shirts even the more formal ones I wear with a suit and tie (except the dinner/dress shirts which I do not own).
#19 2010-02-15 11:07:02
- basudec1509
- Member
- Posts: 3
Re: The Box Pleat.
hello guys ...
its really nice post....
i just liked it....
thanks....