Nearly everything I own and wear is The Look.  Nearly everything is thrifted. I say so without embarrassment.  I've put in the time. The influences are heavy and start all the way back. The American Trickster is a strange mix of the African, Native American and European tricksters. He can change on a dime. You never know if you’re dealing with a lost-money grifter or a new-money Beverly hillbilly. He's in the know - Brer Rabbit. He's endlessly hip - Bugs Bunny.  He's also occasionally undone by his own schemes. Reading about cardsharps and confidence men, I was surprised how often they fell victim to scams themselves.  Cons make good marks, and being able to spot a mark is key.  I think that's when I started thinking about an aesthetic.  I like to think The Look marinated slow, in the downstairs clubs and back alleys. On the steamboats, and the rails, the internet forums of their day. The music, the schemes, the card games, everything all swirled together.

One of the most subversive ideas, and one represented well here, is ‘a little squarer than necessary’. Just a little bit too clean-cut; this is Bill Evans. Clean shaven, even when you don’t have to be. Hair parted, a little too perfect. But you also have to mess things up a bit. White crew socks when you shouldn’t. A bandanna instead of a handkerchief. Little things mostly, this isn’t for the masses; they won’t even notice anyway.

The reality of building the look from thrift, though, is that you only find what was really out there and what really lasted. Here's some examples from my own wardrobe. There can hardly be a much more versatile piece than the London Fog Maincoat.  It is your main coat period. In the spring, you take out the lining; and in late fall you zip it back in. If it gets dirty, you unzip the lining, wash the shell, and hang-dry it; good as new. These things are 40+ years old and they’re everywhere. And you don’t need to put them out in the street to be run over, it’s like you paid someone to wear it around for awhile to break it in. Next is the Florsheim Imperial Longwing. It is difficult for me to describe how great the V-cleat longwings really are. They are as heavy and well-built like a tank as you can imagine. The third of this triad is the Brooks Brothers OCBD. I always buy them in white and blue when I find them. The ones whose sleeves are too short become my rolled-up summer shirts. A couple I couldn’t even button the top button if I tried. These shirts have been slept in many times, occasionally even by me.

To these I add khaki chinos, mostly Land’s End and LL Bean and not ancient. Harris Tweed is readily available, probably, again, because it lasts so long. I never miss a chance to beat them up, carrying in firewood, taking out the trash, etc… I put a rolled-up, squared-off knit tie in the pocket of the Maincoat for just-in-case. I only tie a four-in-hand anymore. I also carry a Zippo lighter and a Case slipjoint.  Oh, and you might as well dig through the crates for some vinyl and vintage paperbacks while you’re at it.

That’s the nutshell, but really these bases have long been covered. If I have anything to contribute, I guess it’ll have to be the oddball stuff. The stuff I didn’t even really know was out there. I’m going to post some pics and see how things go. Stay tuned.