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#26 2010-05-15 01:34:15

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

smile

Alex 'gets' the Internet!

 

#27 2010-05-15 02:11:36

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

To clarify matters some more : the general feeling on TI seems to be as described by 4F Hepcat which implies to me that one can't 'get it' if one chooses to wear a modern shirt w/a logo on it.....how vile ! My simple answer to such blatant nonsense ( as if it somehow can't be 'Ivy' to make such a choice ) has always been the two finger salute. Again, not aimed at anyone in particular but wholeheartedly meant nevertheless lol

 

#28 2010-05-15 02:41:18

shamrockmonkey
Member
From: chicago
Posts: 1418

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

If i might add my interlopers two cents worth, i sympathize with  both points of view. some of the best shirts ive ever had, comfort wise have been RL. and not even the good shit at that-polo jeans made some great shirts. revival Abercrombie, (when they were a semi-prestigious mass market brand of mallwear for aspiring fratboys, and not ultra mass market chinese mallwear on the back of every man, woman and child in the USA from the age of 10 to 40) made some of the best-constructed stuff ever, with fantastic details -flapped pockets, bleeding madras,unlined collars,thick khaki pants on the old army pattern, blah, blah blah. the old stuff is made so well im still wearing my old crap from high school into the ditch, while the lifespan of a carhartt made-for-work garment is about 6 mos.

.......on the other hand, despite the cries of "ivy for everyone", the exclusivity of this stuff seems to be a common thread, especially with the enthusiasts overseas. thread after thread makes mention of "suss", the "little details", being "in the know". while some of that refers to the comfort and construction of the stuff, so many of the details have absolutely nothing to do with comfort or quality-what purpose does a 3rd button serve?

.....and thats what gets to people about labels. its not disdain for ralph's graphic design team, its the saturation level of labels these days. when labels and advertising hit people constantly, rejecting them is seen by many as a form of "suss" or whatnot. witness how labels that control their saturation remain respectable in the eyes of people who "hate labels".....whether or not ralph is a poseur, or a profiteer, i get the impression that if he had controlled the distribution of his little logo like lacoste has, there would be a lot less rancour towards the stuff.
with that said, i wont wear it anymore, either. havent for years.

thanks for providing a forum for my pointless insomnia fueled rants, FNB.......


I brush my teeth with minty paste/I hate when Liquor goes to waste.

 

#29 2010-05-15 02:59:11

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

Last edited by Alex Roest (2010-05-15 03:03:39)

 

#30 2010-05-15 03:49:55

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

And THIS is the job - To combine both those POVs...

IF it can be done - One Giant Step!

 

#31 2010-05-15 04:14:27

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

 

#32 2010-05-15 04:16:12

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2382

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

It's all in the mix - but screw those logos smile

 

#33 2010-05-15 04:37:26

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

 

#34 2010-05-15 09:14:01

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

 

#35 2010-05-15 13:21:02

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

 

#36 2010-05-15 14:59:31

boatshoe
Member
Posts: 78

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

What, are playboys?

 

#37 2010-05-15 18:07:31

Coleman
Member
Posts: 14

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

 

#38 2010-05-15 23:48:31

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

 

#39 2010-05-16 00:47:11

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

 

#40 2010-05-16 01:48:33

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

Last edited by Alex Roest (2010-05-16 01:49:38)

 

#41 2010-05-16 01:55:45

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 14333

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

We're all Evangelists, Jehovah Witnesses, Quakers, priestlty saints or voodoo magick alchemists out in the void trying to make sense of all the internet constructs, marketing hype and BS, in search of the real essence of Ivy.  But even in this, all we have is a post-modern construct, and what RL, AAAC, Chenners and all the Trolls instinctively now, that you can take what you want, add disparate elements to serve your own ego/cash flow agendas.

The iGent/Trad construct, is a case in point, a blank canvas, based in stylised romanticism, the fag end saudade of a nostalgic longing for a past that never really existed. Prime meat for the AAAC artisans to take advantage of.

Alex is right of course, in his assertion that it doesn’t matter the provenance of a shirt, so long as it a good and quality shirt. People will pay for provenance though, as the market for antiques and the price of vintage Rolex Submariners do attest.

I won’t buy RL shirts for a number of reasons, and Shamrockmonkey hits the nail on the head with saturation level of labels, here are my other reasons:
>Collar roll, absolutely crap. Cannot take a tie.
>Offshore production in third-world sweatshops.
>Oxford cloth doesn’t breath
>Broadcloths must be ironed straight from the wash
>Association with a marketing construct, that Oprah buys into so obediently well, “what you do is beyond clothes – its about life”. No its not.
>Overpriced and over here.

I have no problem with Lacoste. And I have to say, the RL vintage oxford cloths do have some very interesting stripes and colours that no one else has, period.

Now, if I was a young man without any bucks, I would have no option but to shop at Uniqlo, which stocks great Oxfords and Madras’s at very reasonable prices.

And none of us, have answered Quay’s question. I give in, I dunno, what’s the answer Quay, how did Ralphy boy do it?


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#42 2010-05-16 02:15:33

shamrockmonkey
Member
From: chicago
Posts: 1418

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

the polo sport one i bought at a discount store in the ghetto 10 yrs ago actually has a perfect roll , unlined collar(and a single line of stitching). if it wasnt for the damned RL on the pocket....


I brush my teeth with minty paste/I hate when Liquor goes to waste.

 

#43 2010-05-16 02:43:33

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2382

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

Saying Ralphy isn't Ivy is a strict aesthetic point of view which ultimately deems the style obsolete.

Saying Ralphy is Ivy continued opens up a broad perspective on the sheer cultural impact of the style.

I hold both views.

 

#44 2010-05-16 03:05:50

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 14333

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

Good points 1966, but what I was saying is that Ralphy is a stylised vision of Ivy - fetishised by marketing.

Also maintain that its possible to be aesthetically against RL and this stance does not deem Ivy style as obsolete.

Ralphy is part of the cultural impact, but he's not the essence.


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#45 2010-05-16 03:40:19

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2382

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

^ Agreed on all points.

It's just that to me, the strict definition doesn't provide the whole story. Everytime I see a Ralphy clad frat type I think of how Ivy  continues to move people subconsciously, however twisted.

This is why Ralph Lauren et al are indeed more than just clothes and marketing, I think it's culture at large working here. RL continues to capitalize on that powerful post- WWII version of the American Dream, and people are still buying it. They are not just buying a polo sporting a horsey but a sense of a "better life". My warped little mind likes to think those old notions surrounding "democratic" Ivy are still working at the core of this.

 

#46 2010-05-16 04:57:14

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

Last edited by Alex Roest (2010-05-16 04:57:46)

 

#47 2010-05-16 05:17:26

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2382

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

Last edited by 1966 (2010-05-16 05:50:16)

 

#48 2010-05-16 06:23:36

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

 

#49 2010-05-16 07:13:35

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2382

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

 

#50 2010-05-16 07:39:07

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Do You Know? A Selective Graduate Course in Ivy Style History

 
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