Just a thought... Trawling through Ebay on my wife's account, looking for USA made items being sold in England, specifically a navy cardigan, I came across one in Yorkshire... Fine... But the seller doesn't have the nous to say what it's made of. I can get on a train this morning and go to two shops where virtually everything says 'Made In The USA', but it's mostly rubbish. Man-made fibres again: orlon acrylic and the like. Who'll touch it? But a navy cardigan made in Scotland would be a very different matter...
Get Smart had a valid point to raise.
True. It's about the quality, cloth and cut over anything else no? Id rather have made in scotland wool, than made in usa orlon.
That said, the silhouette and cut just isn't right on some thing's produced outside of their native environment. You end up with a second class copy.
Maybe the japanese are the only ones, to truly have a knack of being able to re-create 'authentic facsimiles' of the genuine article
I used to have the "made in USA = good" prejudice as well, but after looking at garments very objectively, there is a lot of hype to the "USA made" pedigree that is often undeserved. I think we all get romantic when we think of "made in England, made in Italy, made in USA" etc. As if our garments were being made by skilled artisans who've been doing it for generations. Of course those makers exist, but are definitely not the norm.
I have a friend who is a denim designer for a pretty well known company based in LA, as a result of where they manufacture, he's been to various factories all over the world including 3rd world ones like China and Mexico. He says that shockingly, the worst factories he's seen in terms of quality of work and way the workers are treated, are actually right here in the USA. And contrary to popular belief, factories in China that produce higher end goods, are quite nice, with the workers being treated very well. It's only when you get into mass produced products that are made to sell cheap, that sweatshop labor and conditions arise.
on a related note, there was an article in the paper last week about a huge sweatshop garment ring that was busted right here in SoCal. The workers were from SE Asia and forced to work making clothes (which I'm sure will carry the Made in USA tag), while locked up in a complex that the doors were locked from the outside.
there's a really interesting book called Deluxe: How Luxury Lost its Luster that has some good bits on offshore manufacturing, well worth a read
It is difficult to beat Scottish knitwear even though brands like Pringle have moved production to China. I would recommend Johnson's of Elgin and William Lockie. For fine gauge merino wool, John Smedley remains unbeatable.
Last edited by Bishop of Briggs (2010-08-16 09:19:27)
I've got to be absolutely honest with you, I don't pay a lot for my stuff nowadays. I haven't spent as much as £40 on any single item for a year or more. No intention of doing so, either. Shamrockmonkey sells better gear than I can get anywhere in England. My major purchases were at J. Simons and form the basis of my wardrobe to some extent. Good quality stuff that will last, like slack jackets. I haven't bought a new shirt since 2008.
"Made In England" is very rare - largely limited to the following
Outerwear - Aquascutum coats, Macintosh, Barbour waxed cotton jackets, Gloverall, Baracuta, Grenfell?
Countrywear - Cordings, Pakeman, Bookster, Alexander James, Mears, Chrysalis
Tailoring - Bespoke tailors, Cheshire Bespoke's RTW, Baird Group
Shirtmakers - Turnbull & Asser, Emma Willis, Budd, Rayner & Sturges
Tiemakers - Drake's, Turnbull & Asser, New & Lingwood
Knitwear - John Smedley
Shoemakers - the usual Northamptonshire suspects
Made In Scotland is even more limited to a few bespoke tailors, kiltmakers, what's left of the Harris Tweed industry, Hilditch & Key shirts. The knitwear industry has taken a hammering with Peter Scott going bust recently. There are a few high end companies left, e.g. Johnson's of Elgin and William Lockie, a few specialist knitwear firms that make for international brands and artisans (Fair Isle etc).
Pretty depressing!
^that procedure is also mentioned on roberto saviano's gomorra, a book about the neapolitan camorra and their business ventures.
shits been going on for a billion years or so. korea used to be the worst, im told, though the mantle seems to have gone to you-know-who. another racket is (or was, no one seems to care anymore)putting "taiwan", "hong kong", etc tags on mainland china merch, as the same people own the factories on both sides of the straits.
makes sense the camorra are in it. when i was in italy it seems like every corner had a blanket piled with passable-looking knockoff shite.
Yes credit to albam. they manufacture as much as they can in the uk. If They cant get it made here, it's usualy made in italy or the usa. In some cases still from homegrown fabrics or materials.
As far as I know Sunspel are still currently manufacturing in the UK (Derbyshire), and they seem to be trading on that image, for now at least.
The M12 polo is the 'limited' version - slightly more expensive (£60-£65), and Made In England. I'm not aware of any other FP items being Made in England.
some of the fp haringtons are english made, and some of the knitwear is scottish made.
Interesting.. What did you get made up there, and how much was it ?..if you dont mind me asking..
I had two shirts made up for me by Kerry Ford - one is Swiss made Sea Island white cotton (not recommended for trad Ivy style shirt) but the other in a blue herringbone weave which is great. I was one of his first customers after he opened the new premises about four years ago so I got a good deal - he was anxiously trying to establish a customer base at that time. I expect he charges a lot more now. I'm passing there tomorrow - I can drop by and ask Kerry for an indicative price and let you know.
Thanks. very kind.
Mackintosh is still made in Scotland I believe. Nigel Cabourn's collections are made in Britain (I think?) who seems to do very well in Japan.
Yes I belive your right pk, Has any body seen the latest offerings from mackintosh ? Quite a contemporary twist, Im sure it will appeal to some.
http://www.oipolloi.com/brands/Mackintosh-308.html
Last edited by nouvelle vague (2010-08-18 07:25:14)