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#1 2006-10-19 09:29:30

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

More for the mix: Skinheads!

This is from The Man Who Knows (Not me!)

It all adds to the mix. Our team welcomes everyone!

Skinhead in the UK started as an Ivy style mutation. You can argue it developed into a vulgarisation of the style. Certainly that was the view at The Ivy Shop when I was there.

So from The Man Who Knows here is Another Man Who Knows: 'Mr. Popcorn' himself:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufKb5M9Uj4E

Jim Fergusson's input into Nick Knight's 'Skinhead' book (Amazon & elsewhere) is golden for those interested in more Skin style.

(S)Miles.

Edit: And Paul Gorman's 'The Look', and Paolo Hewitts 'Soul Stylists' again.

One more edit: And in this clip the last B&W photo is the most interesting for me. Don't know when. '69? - ish?

Last edited by Miles Away (2006-10-19 09:46:38)


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#2 2006-11-06 17:05:02

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

An eloquent man, is Buster Bloodvessel.

 

#3 2006-11-07 08:18:02

Daniele
Member
Posts: 368

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Last edited by Daniele (2006-11-07 08:18:23)

 

#4 2006-11-07 08:57:51

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

I was interested in what Laurel Aitken (Mr. Popcorn) had to say and I liked the subtitles calling a Pork Pie Hat a 'Popeye-Hut'.
The Mod/Skinhead crossover of '68/'69 is an interesting time and very under recorded I think.
Before it all got more than a little dumb & down-market it must have been quite a sharp look. Wonder how long it actually lasted in its purist form as a young working class underground style - 6 months?


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#5 2006-11-08 09:03:59

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

 

#6 2007-01-17 01:31:40

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

From the Man Who Knows:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYtjC-nDVUw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hY4R2zPWxxk

English kids from 1970.
Mod/Skinhead/Suedehead/Smooth overlap.
Button downs, etc. & even a Pink Shetland!

Last edited by Terry Lean (2007-01-17 01:40:15)


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#7 2007-01-17 05:19:46

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Last edited by Terry Lean (2007-02-12 05:39:19)


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#8 2007-01-17 09:11:39

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

by the time Northern got big, I think all roots to Ivy were gone, as Northern got more into sportswear and wide legged trousers

There's some really good text regarding the skinhead/ivy connection in The Look, a great book that traces post war British subcultures.

and the skinhead-smoothie section of Nick Night's book is golden.

 

#9 2007-01-17 11:11:01

Chris_H
Ivy Original
From: Watford
Posts: 1654

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Last edited by Chris_H (2007-01-17 11:44:17)


https://www.facebook.com/groups/hardyandjohnson/

 

#10 2007-01-17 12:38:03

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Funny how all these things start out in a very subtle way but by the time the media hears of them they are being represented by pretty heavy-handed caricatures of the original styles. It's the bandwagon-jumpers you hear about not the guys who forge these styles out of nothing.

And of course by the point the style has a name & is well known the originators have all moved on.


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#11 2007-01-21 14:36:16

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

 

#12 2007-01-21 15:14:37

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

See the bird with the white hat & handbag in the first shot?

That's never the Queen is it?

Blimey!


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#13 2007-01-22 04:41:16

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Last edited by Alex Roest (2007-01-22 04:44:31)

 

#14 2007-01-22 05:31:40

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Very good to see you here Mr. Roest - Always enjoy your posts.

David


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#15 2007-01-22 05:46:21

Chris_H
Ivy Original
From: Watford
Posts: 1654

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Hello Alex,

Great to see you posting here. I'm sure you will find there is much on FNB of interest to you. I look forward to your intelligent and always well thought-out comments appearing on this MB.

Chris


https://www.facebook.com/groups/hardyandjohnson/

 

#16 2007-01-22 08:35:32

Daniele
Member
Posts: 368

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Welcome Alex!

Daniele

 

#17 2007-01-22 09:26:37

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Hi Alex, nice to see you here, I think some of your opinions would be of great interest to forumites.   Don't be a stranger!

 

#18 2007-01-22 10:09:01

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

I'm REALLY interested in all of this...
I see early 'Skinhead' as a 'back to basics', purist movement within Modernism.
A reaction against the commerciality of 'Ready, Steady, Go', 'Swinging London' & Carnaby Street, etc.
A kind of re-grouping around Modernism's core values after the scene was blown open by the media and the bandwagon-jumpers.
A move back to exclusivity and quality at the start.

The media ruined it (once more) & I think ruined it quicker than they ruined original Modernism which lasted longer because nobody was then on the look-out for youth sub-cultures...

'68 at John Simon's Ivy Shop must have been an incredible time. Stylish, underground, sharp.
Later it would all turn into boneheaded nonsense, but for a while 'Skinhead' must have been very cool.

THAT'S the part of the style to be remembered, celebrated & 'revived' (in an updated way) I think.

t.


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#19 2007-01-22 10:26:47

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

I agree.  I don't think anyone who understands the history and origins of skinhead would argue that "skinhead" was a reaction against "swinging London" and the hippy-ness that resulted from it.  It was a deliberate attempt to keep the original modernist etho alive.  Whether or not it's true, I've read about one of the first "original skinheads" and how they were actually a mod crew that despised and rejected their peers embracing the hippy-carnabyst-swinging60s creed, and were one of the first to actually be skinheads.  Now this might be some romantic urban myth, but there's probably a few grains of truth in the general concept, of guys disenfranchised with the loom of 60s hippy. 

I like plenty of punk-influenced mod revival and oi music, but stylistically, nothing compares to the original late 50s-early 60s mod and later 60s skinhead style.  Esp in today's culture where "skinhead" and "mod" have taken decidedly commercial and appalling turns to become caricatures, the original ivy style of both cults is much more "rebellious" than 14 hole Docs with the flavor-of-month streetpunk band tshirt, or even worse, the ubiquitous RAF target "mod" tshirt

 

#20 2007-01-22 11:06:22

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

 

#21 2007-01-22 11:48:19

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

That's the pic, Tony. Fine work for the '80's. Who'd have thought?

Jason: You're bang on the money again. The whole point of Modernism is that it isn't static. I think as soon as the world woke up to 'Mod' and it became a business the Modernists just left them to get on with it. It meant nothing to them. So back they went to what they loved - Their own choice of clothes & music. Nothing obvious. Nothing easy.


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#22 2007-01-23 11:13:02

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Can anyone identify the song being played/sung by Bad Manners over the last bits of the video Terry linked in his first post above?

 

#23 2007-01-24 06:29:33

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

First of all : thanks a lot for the kind words everyone ! Especially Chris ( whom I had the pleasure of meeting before and during the "Night of the 50 Faces" in London in 2004, so I'm not a real stranger apart from the fact that I know Jason and Daniele via Modculture forums ) but everybody else really......much appreciated......

I did some re-reading ( The Look, Soul Stylists, J. Ferguson's Fashion Notebook in Skinhead and http://uppers.org/showArticle.asp?article=698 ) and one of the things that struck me was the comment by Elms that when in primary school he couldn't understand why this other kid turned up in a porkpie hat when he wasn't a Skin. Why not go all the way ( with clothes ) is what he couldn't grasp and I think I'm more or less the same. But then again aren't we all, otherwise we wouldn't be posting on this very board......?

Anyway, some loose comments : one of the times I visited John's shop he actually just hung up on Paul Gorman so we got to talk about that. The whole Mod thing that is.....enjoyed that a lot. In fact all three times I visited J. Simons we happened to have long chats which lived up to expectations after having read his knowledgeable input in The Look and The Soul Stylists. Even used his Covent Garden local for lunch a few times :-)

I've only dabbled a bit with the Ivy League thing myself ( in it's pure form that is and we're only talking basics here, didn't know too much about it back then really, it was all very intuitive ) nevertheless I regard it as the basic ingredient  for my personal sartorial potpourri.
Basically one of the reasons for joining FNB is to learn more about IL, funny how one keeps being drawn back to grassroots like that......

The Suedehead thing appeals to me personally because of its Casual smartness. I'm not much of a suit person ( I do like occasional combinations though ) although I happen to have bought a handsome 2B subtle check number in grey with a brown lining/buttons which makes for some interesting colour combinations. Would have to check for info on material ( heavier winter wool, made in Italy BTW ) so you can see my point I think.....
There's not much point in not adding something modern IMO so I like to be experimenting constantly. Not knowing just exactly where you're going is another quote I like from this topic albeit that it's one from the AAAC link I put up. The Smoothie thing I mean....it all got a little out of hand I suppose, clotheswise, until that quote from the same guy where he mentions the burgeoning designer thing when he visited belgium in'75 ( sorry John, but I feel part of that thing too.......)

Also : there's this very knowledgeable bloke called Bomber ( Skinhead begat Soulboy ) who often mentions The Ivy Shop when he talks about his beloved scene, in that not everyone went total camp that is...in fact they remained smart in a very traditional manner according to him, at least some of his crowd did.....

Well gents, got to go back to work now, sorry......I take it we'll 'speak' again soon.....ta ra,

Alex

Last edited by Alex Roest (2007-01-25 03:23:41)

 

#24 2007-01-24 06:47:01

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Hi Alex -

I'd love Bomber to post over here too if he was ever in the mood.
So much that is written on this subject is from people who rely on whatever stereotypes they have read about concerning this scene. Personal knowledge like yours & Bombers is like gold-dust.
The often repeated cliche is that 'Art School' Mods turned Hippy & 'Hard' Mods turned Skin some time around '68-ish.
Any theory as simple as that has GOT to be rubbish!

I suspect the truth is much more complex & interesting. Finding that truth is the hard part!

Good to see you around -


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#25 2007-01-24 07:02:06

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Last edited by Alex Roest (2007-01-24 07:02:54)

 

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