You are not logged in.

#101 2007-11-27 08:59:49

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

 

#102 2007-11-27 10:26:17

Cheeky Monkey
Member
Posts: 1273

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

I was watching TV (television not Big Tony) and there was a band on (British) that had a really rather nice Ska, reggae, beat-it`s a new band and new song -for the life of me I can`t remember the name of the band or song-but it was super stuff-2 singers one being mixed race-one white guy rapping like a Jamaican -synchronised dance movements-black suits -one with shirt and tie-one with white t-shirt-lots of brass in there-anybody got a clue with the  description given?


... ... ...

 

#103 2007-11-27 10:43:53

jesmond
Ivy Genius
From: Wry Lane
Posts: 1202

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

 

#104 2007-11-27 11:49:14

Cheeky Monkey
Member
Posts: 1273

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!


... ... ...

 

#105 2007-11-27 13:16:16

jesmond
Ivy Genius
From: Wry Lane
Posts: 1202

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Ohhhh wowwww Great stuff! Yes it was a pleasure to pipe up for you there...

No, i`ve become aware from wikipedia that Jesmond is quite a desirable suburb of Newcastle (Bryan Ferry is from there aswell isn`t he??), but it just seem`d nicely obscure and inscrutable!  smile

Well truth be known i used to be engaged to a Maltese lass.I met her out in Malta whilst the Italia 90 football tournament was taking place.(You know the one with `Gazza...`).

Well she was actually my first love ...To cut a long story short we were quite serious for around 4 years and we `d both  fly out to each other every few months or so...I can just remember her mentioning one particular lad she`d grown up with in Malta who`d had the name `Jesmond`.She would immediately burst into a fit of giggles when recalling this particular chap. Well just the moniker `Jesmond`  itself caused me aswell to instantaneously giggle and i suppose i never forgot ...


To return to `The Dualers` though it`s funny because i went to the same school in Bromley, Kent as them.Simon (the eldest brother) was four years younger than me.He was friends with my youngest brother and was in the same class as him.I don`t really remember the younger brother (Ty) so well.Their mum and dad were also friends with my own mum and dad and i can remember being invited up to their home in Bromley.(A very, very nice home it was too...). I also think they`re a great outfit and i did think about getting in touch (only to say `hi` really...) through their myspace site at one time.


http://www.myspace.com/thedualers

 

#106 2007-11-27 14:43:07

Cheeky Monkey
Member
Posts: 1273

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Good stuff Mr.J -I have not come across them before - but will now be sure to keep a look out for them in future-I like what they do.

Have you ever come across a band called the Bogus brothers-another band I like very much-I`ve been to quite a few of their giggs-they also played at a friends wedding and they certainly know how to put on a show.

First love -eh -you never forget them-and never entirely get over them-bitter sweet recollections.

Thankyou once again for providing the name and the subsequent link.

regards

CM


... ... ...

 

#107 2007-11-28 02:05:24

jesmond
Ivy Genius
From: Wry Lane
Posts: 1202

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Thank you Cheeky.


I`ve not actually heard of  the `Bogus Brothers` band before but from what you`ve told me they sound great!   big_smile

cheers,


jezza

 

#108 2007-11-29 09:30:55

Brideshead
Member
Posts: 417

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

 

#109 2007-11-29 10:17:58

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

^ Very good to see you here, Sir, & a great first post.

Dumb question: How long  did The Squire Shop on Brewer Street keep the old Butcher's shop look?
I know it started in that style, like the old 'Mayfair' shop in Paris,  but other accounts talk about the place being like a 'Baronial Hall' filled with Ivy clothes (JS in 'The Influential Factor', I think).

Obviously there was a re-fit at some point.

Any clues?

Thanks -

David


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#110 2007-11-29 10:24:25

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Oh - And did you get up to Richmond Hill (Hill Rise) in your time?

The central London shops - Squire x2, Village Gate x2 - Moved into the 'French Cut' etc, but The Ivy Shop stayed pretty much Ivy for a longer time as far as I can work out.
- Not so Ivy when I first saw it in '87, But I think the faith was kept up there for longer than elsewhere.

No?

Ta -

D.


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#111 2007-11-30 03:40:19

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Last edited by Alex Roest (2007-11-30 03:42:30)

 

#112 2007-11-30 05:28:29

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

To answer a few PMs in public -

The Ivy Shop was mainly English 'Trad' style by Christmas '87 - Jackets by 'Parkes' & stuff like that. Loads of Viyella shirts and Cords. It was what sold in the area.
A few BDs at the back by Geoffrey Scott right next to the Canterbury belts.
Bass & Sebago were there. Timberland too, which was on the up in those days. Grensons were also in evidence.
A Navy 'Barbour' style John Partridge jacket came & went as did a Duffel coat.
There were some heavy ribbed knits too. Can't recall the name.
Burlington socks were in there also.
Business was slow.


The two Squire shops (Brewer & Old Compton Streets) & the two Village Gate shops (Old Compton Street & Kings Road) were all 'French Cut' places by 1973. 'Village Gate' started in '71.
Squire on Brewer Street opened in Autumn of '68 after the success of The Ivy Shop, Richmond (opened '65). The Brewer Street Squire started all Ivy & then drifted into the new French Cut as demand for that style grew.

There is a POV that the Brewer Street Squire was always marketed as slightly less 'Hardcore' Ivy than The Ivy Shop even from the start - More knitwear & things the younger kids could buy to get The Look (Levis, Sta-Prests). Still kosher Ivy & expensive, but maybe a bit more accessible being central London, not Richmond Hill. Richmond remained purist Ivy HQ.
- And that POV is more than open to being questioned.

'73 is when JS splits from business partner JK and JS's focus returns to The Ivy Shop after creating all the other shops.
'73 to '87 I know nothing about life on Richmond Hill.
Post '87 there was a re-fit of The Ivy at some point with shoes being brought to the fore, Timberlands especially it would seem.
The Ivy closes Jan '95.

http://img396.imageshack.us/my.php?image=insidetheivyshoprichmonkn3.jpg

The guy up the ladder is John Lally - A very nice chap. I once bought him a kebab (...Well...Ian paid, but I was the one who went down the shop...)

J.

Last edited by Jack_The_Lad (2007-11-30 05:45:38)


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#113 2007-11-30 07:15:45

Daniele
Member
Posts: 368

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Hi Brideshead, good to read you here!

Daniele

 

#114 2007-11-30 07:22:33

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

 

#115 2007-11-30 07:57:14

Daniele
Member
Posts: 368

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Thankyou Tony, you're very kind..:-)
Btw, just today I've made to post a photo in that thread..probably of a quite unexciting attire, but it was what I found in my digi camera's memory..

Have a nice weekend Gentlemen, and please keep on posting on this thread, it's extremely interesting (eager to read Alex's article too).

D.

 

#116 2007-11-30 08:14:52

Brideshead
Member
Posts: 417

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Thanks for the warm welcome guys.

I already feel more at home here.  Modculture (with very few exceptions) seem an odd bunch to me.  Very quick to point the finger.  Anyway that's not what I wanted to talk about.

It seemed to me back in 1970 that you had a choice as a smooth/suedehead.  You could either try to stick with the pure Ivy influenced style or go with the 'French cut' look that was (for me) becoming hard to resist.  It is very much like the situation of a few years earlier but almost in reverse.  The late 60's Mod could either become a hippy or a 'hard mod' but not stay the same.  Peer group pressure was very strong and it took a very confident person to stand alone - as ever!  We were first seduced into the new softer look on holiday in Clacton in 1970 (of all places) where a bunch of Chelsea supporters had raised the bar a few notches.  Those ITK recognised the unmistakable skinhead influences but the overall appearance was much much softer - a lacy shirt, slightly flared (too long?) trousers and loafers.  The hair was becoming longer too.

The Ivy Shop was my spiritual home from late 1969 to late 1970.  I got my first Royals there.  Black long-wing brogues. And my second pair - burgundy plains.  We called them cordovan.  I think we knew they were not actually cordovan but were rather in that traditional colour. 

By late 1970 we were more inclined to go to The Squire Shop as it was indeed more in keeping with our 'new style'.  I really cannot recall how and when the shops changed I'm afraid.

Like many others I drifted into the Designer period - from around 1975 when Armani first appeared over here.  I got back in touch with John Simons in the 80s and still make regular visits to his emporium.  Recent buys have included Bass Penny in burgundy, AE dark brown grain 'Kenwood', a selection of the £29 ties and so on.

Glad to be here.

John

 

#117 2007-11-30 10:42:22

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

The pair of 'Royals' that J.S. has in 'J. Simons' to show to those who ask about them are, I think, from the tiny back room (up 3 steps at the back of the shop) of the Richmond Ivy Shop.

I saw my first 'Hustler' back in there in '87...

Ordered by a customer, but never collected, the shoes sat way up on a high shelf for years out of the way of the snails that came in back there during the night through the small square grid in middle of the floor.

Tis true.

j.

Last edited by Jack_The_Lad (2007-12-01 03:14:04)


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#118 2007-12-01 16:41:38

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

 

#119 2007-12-01 17:55:28

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

By the preponderance of white socks in the bottom-most photo, that's *probably* a later shot during the Mod Revival era of the late 70s

Last edited by Get Smart (2007-12-01 17:55:45)

 

#120 2007-12-02 00:44:05

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Fantastic pics - The bottom one is just outside Walker's Court where John Rushton's 'Soho Shoes' used to be (Later he moved to Brewer Street & then on to the current Wimpole Street site)- I first heard about Aldens from him when I was working just round the corner in Soho in the 80's which is when I think this pic is from - They seem too sussed for the '79 revivalists. I'd say they were later 80's stylists. Wearing Macs & not Parkas makes them look post-Style Council -ish to me, not Jam fans. Could be wrong.

Cheers!


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#121 2007-12-02 03:48:35

jesmond
Ivy Genius
From: Wry Lane
Posts: 1202

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

 

#122 2007-12-02 03:56:58

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

Chris H. has some fantastic pics - Mainly family stuff so not for the forums.
Especially good are his pics of the post-Ivy Squire shop's 'French Cut'.
London Modernists wearing clothes which would be considered waaay outside the cannon by most on Modculture.

As ever - The story is bigger than we know... smile

j.


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#123 2007-12-02 07:18:22

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#124 2007-12-02 08:51:13

soulstylist
Member
Posts: 35

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

...great thread! Though my contributions are probably allready done with the pics Jason posted...

...really interested in learnig about the real roots of the whole movement - and the only people that can tell are the ones who were there in the 6ts and early 7ts - and even they can only speak for their area.

I got the impression, that there were quite huge differences between London and the North.
The North seems to me a bit like 'us' in the mid 8ts - of course the first things you pic up are the very obvious ones - but as you grow into the style (and older) you develop a sense yourself. So I think there were, are and will allways be 'faces' that push the style - and this can look quite different. I think thats why I like the idea of 'Soulstylists'...

I would not label myself 'skinhead' anymore - but what I learned during those years is to love the look, an eye for detail and the appreciation of quality - no more marketstall crombies for me. Thank you. I'm 40. But a Soulstylist? Allways!

...as this is a styleforum maybe the wrong question, but I'd really like to know from brideshead, bomber, dolan... how important music was for the style obsessed kids? For me music was probably THE first attraction.

Soudtrack for this post: a few Northern and Modern Soul tracks...

 

#125 2007-12-02 11:15:59

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: More for the mix: Skinheads!

 

Board footer

Powered by PunBB
© Copyright 2002–2008 Rickard Andersson