It's the very roots that interest me, the whys and the wherefores, the transference of an English style into the United States.  And, before that, the origins of Brooks or Press and the way they dressed American men.  Including Lincoln?  There's sometimes too much emphasis upon modern jazz and the movies.  Again, I think, this will take an informed American to shed the necessary light.  Forget the period between 1945 and, say, 1965 for a moment.  Forget Soho, the Flamingo and GIs in their BDs and heavy shoes.  Think hip flasks, roadsters and privilege.  Yes, John, I said privilege.