With acknowledgments to Toffeeman.  Now that's a phrase that has stayed with me from the first.  It obliged me, in some degree, to search for an imperfect balance between 'smart and well-dressed' and 'comfy'.  The shirt collar thing varies with me, depending on mood and shirt.  I have a battered Purist that fails to roll and so...  I have tip-top Brooks that I refuse to unbutton.  Add to all of this the Cheever touch and a man of my age can walk tall...  tall...  taller...