Bishop of Briggs wrote:

K. A. Adams wrote:

There's enough rope there to hang one's self

Which is what I would do if I was forced to go out in public wearing a coat with a sleeve head like that

More rope than Sciamat! Davide Taub has an interesting blog - http://davidetaub.blogspot.com/ It has more photographs of that linen suit.

The quality of the cutting and tailoring is excellent. It appears that there is no Sedwell house style and the customer gets what he or she wants.

Aye, I forgot to add the link to his blog. Cheers.

I have a friend who uses Ramroop and he indeed does not have what the iGents would call a 'House style', he is open to suggestions from the more adventurous customers but does cut impeccable business suits for those who who want a more discreet look.

I've noticed he also cuts for women.



Which again reminds me a little of Sexton who is said to love cutting clothes for women. The shoulders are more pagoda on Taub's though.

Annie Lennox in Sexton:

K. A. Adams wrote:

Sciamat is positively tame in comparison.

I could see wearing something like this if one was a bona fide rock star .....

Well, yes I understand that view. A 'star' needs to be 'seen' so has much more leeway in the way he dresses.

Some customers, however are just unrepentant dandies. The ordinary, the conventional will not do. We used to produce a quite lot of this kind in Britain, with the emphasis firmly on the words 'used to'.

Could you imagine the current crop in Britain coming up with something like punk? I think not.

K. A. Adams wrote:

Now that I've seen the photo of Annie, I wonder if the plaid Sexton coat with dog tooth accents is for a man or a woman. The tailor's mannequin looks kind of busty

Yes, its Twiggy's. Look on the first page and you'll see her wearing in (linked with Rod 'Villenueve' Stewart ).

Cilla Black said Sexton loved cutting women's trouser suits. She said he was fabulous at it. I'll see if I can find a picture of him dressing Marie Helvin.

Sexton taught Stella McCartney to cut and make /manipulate patterns before her stint at Chloe.

Last edited by formby (2011-08-18 11:32:04)

The more confused discussions about clothing I see read here, the more I wonder if you guys have the same tastes and bad eyes, and similar motivations, as the iGentry...

Good o no good?

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-RBc_ … R4/164.JPG

Who said there was anything wrong with Sciamat ?  I simply responded to  B o B's post that they and Sexton were comparable.

Regardless of the technical virtuosity involved,  I think those extra ropey shoulders border on cartoonish. 

Otherwise I like the coats and the cut ..... on somebody else.

Does anyone else think that these extra-ropy shoulders seem to look better on a dummy than on a person? The fabric seems to bunch quite badly by the shoulder when there's an arm in the sleeve.

I've seen plenty of other Sciamat coats without such exaggerated rope.

Regardless, wear what you want and entertain me

Perhaps Ali Kebab's post should read 'How's that for ruching ?'

yachtie wrote:

formby wrote:

K. A. Adams wrote:

It's all 'Gypsy Weddings' now.

In the U.S., Thom Browne tried to provide an answer and look how that turned out.  Yuck

A kind of dull conformism is the name of the game now. Sad really.

Too true. On the boards the newb's are all into : "You must wear a grey/navy 2 btn SB suit"- and heaven help anyone who challenges that shibboleth.

I think they should all be sentenced to have to wear 3 pc DB's in "Dashing Tweeds" cloths for one year.

That'll fix 'em!

But from a research point of view you can observe the herd mentality at work. Clothing choices are very rich in symbolism and that is true both for people that choose flamboyant items or dowdy ones. This includes women too. I love a woman who actually wears her own original style but this is not common. Generally, one has to settle for someone who accomplishes the prevailing style with aplomb.

Depending on your purpose, clothes will have a suitability factor. What is interesting is that the very young are the most interested in standing out and wearing traditional clothes that are on the dandy wing. Unfortunately, they need guidance.

It's the men in the middle that have problems with it still. I was at an office a few months ago wearing that grey striped suit with the red skull/crossbones motif. The lining created such a stir that my jacket got paraded around the office with both men and women getting called in to view and stroke my suit. A case where doing something well is such a distraction that it might have been a bad idea. You have to be careful with Americans because unlike, say, the English they will ask you where you got something, how much it cost and why you did it. All of these are distractions in the workplace. Americans below a certain class do not appreciate something well done so much as worry if you're getting ahead of them.

A while back, I shifted my focus to casual clothes because I had a revelation about what audience I wanted to impress. But my office tastes have always been simple. I dont wear checked suits, rarely anything but black shoes. I get in trouble with shirt/tie color/pattern combinations mostly because most men are completely at sea with such things and I get reactions such as, how can I make this work? One man sitting next to me in a conference room with several other people, actually got so distracted by a tie I had woven that he suddenly pulled it out of my vest to check it out more closely. Talk about an embarrassing moment.

yachtie wrote:

True, but that said, there's  a difference between guidance and being overly prescriptive. I'm seeing more and more of the latter. I think that it has more to do with the poster's fears and inhibitions than with propriety. Probably stemming from a lack of knowledge as much as "I did this and didn't get into trouble, therefore it must be okay".

Aye, I read with much mirth that thread about DB suits you contributed to over on S.F.

yachtie wrote:

Film Noir Buff wrote:

yachtie wrote:

Too true. On the boards the newb's are all into : "You must wear a grey/navy 2 btn SB suit"- and heaven help anyone who challenges that shibboleth.

I think they should all be sentenced to have to wear 3 pc DB's in "Dashing Tweeds" cloths for one year.

That'll fix 'em!

But from a research point of view you can observe the herd mentality at work. Clothing choices are very rich in symbolism and that is true both for people that choose flamboyant items or dowdy ones. This includes women too. I love a woman who actually wears her own original style but this is not common. Generally, one has to settle for someone who accomplishes the prevailing style with aplomb.

Depending on your purpose, clothes will have a suitability factor. What is interesting is that the very young are the most interested in standing out and wearing traditional clothes that are on the dandy wing. Unfortunately, they need guidance.

True, but that said, there's  a difference between guidance and being overly prescriptive. I'm seeing more and more of the latter. I think that it has more to do with the poster's fears and inhibitions than with propriety. Probably stemming from a lack of knowledge as much as "I did this and didn't get into trouble, therefore it must be okay".

It's the men in the middle that have problems with it still. I was at an office a few months ago wearing that grey striped suit with the red skull/crossbones motif. The lining created such a stir that my jacket got paraded around the office with both men and women getting called in to view and stroke my suit. A case where doing something well is such a distraction that it might have been a bad idea. You have to be careful with Americans because unlike, say, the English they will ask you where you got something, how much it cost and why you did it. All of these are distractions in the workplace. Americans below a certain class do not appreciate something well done so much as worry if you're getting ahead of them.

I thought that lining would come back to bite you.
I get almost as much of a buzz from wearing suspenders or -gasp- ghillies. The idea that you can have clothes made is so foreign nowadays IRL that most assume that it's some high end RTW. I don't disabuse them of that notion.

A while back, I shifted my focus to casual clothes because I had a revelation about what audience I wanted to impress. But my office tastes have always been simple. I dont wear checked suits, rarely anything but black shoes. I get in trouble with shirt/tie color/pattern combinations mostly because most men are completely at sea with such things and I get reactions such as, how can I make this work? One man sitting next to me in a conference room with several other people, actually got so distracted by a tie I had woven that he suddenly pulled it out of my vest to check it out more closely. Talk about an embarrassing moment.

Similar reactions to what I get with patterned silk squares. Had someone reach over to pull out my square and I told him to be careful, I bite if provoked

The normative drive/herd mentality is a strong one

Most of the people who post their outfits you know where are anomalies. I was speaking about the mainstream who have a desire to learn about clothing without wanting pathologically to fit in because they feel alienated. Mortimer Levitt wrote that most men interested in clothing are either minorities of one sort or another or short men. 

Besides and again, the young men I am speaking of want to be interactive with their clothes; not partake in some new closeted form of exhibitionism. If you take a look at the ringleaders over there, you'll notice that in spite of speaking about tradition and propriety they have a sort of feminine mood approach to getting dressed which gives a certain flower pot chic to it all.

I do mainly put wild linings in casual items now and bright but solid colors in bidnez suits. Live and learn. Anyone who puts you on the spot by asking where you got something or how much it costs, deserves any answer you care to give them.

It's all about confidence and knowing what works both on you and in your environment. Having an amazing tailor doesn't hurt at all either.