Fritz the Cat wrote:

formby wrote:

g- wrote:

Sleeves on the jacket look fine but the sleeves on the shirt look long---no?

I didn't notice them to be honest, I only focused on the tailor. British tailors would tend to cut the sleeves on the jacket a touch longer, the shirt sleeves are about right to my eyes.

The x" amount of shirt cuff showing is an iGent myth.

The jacket sleeves are too short, even if you want to show some cuff. Are the buttons just oddly reflecting the light or is this some new trend to use metall?

They may be mother of pearl.

I like that very much.

SartorialInquis1tion wrote:

http://fcorbera.smugmug.com/photos/i-z6 … kfB-X3.jpg

Jackets a bit on the short side, but it suits him 10x better than his Steed stuff

Trousers look short and the cuffs look like those 2" that the SF crowd take as a sacrement.

SartorialInquis1tion wrote:

http://fcorbera.smugmug.com/photos/i-z6 … kfB-X3.jpg

Jackets a bit on the short side, but it suits him 10x better than his Steed stuff

Yeah, looks a bit trimmer than his Steed stuff. Length wise, I prefer the Steed stuff. English tailors cut a longer coat which I think is more flattering.

He seems to have had those shirt sleeve thingies done as well. Acceptable-ish on a sport coat, not on a suit. He's made a mistake there.

I don't like turn-ups on trousers.

formby wrote:

SartorialInquis1tion wrote:

http://fcorbera.smugmug.com/photos/i-z6 … kfB-X3.jpg

Jackets a bit on the short side, but it suits him 10x better than his Steed stuff

Yeah, looks a bit trimmer than his Steed stuff. Length wise, I prefer the Steed stuff. English tailors cut a longer coat which I think is more flattering.

He seems to have had those shirt sleeve thingies done as well. Acceptable-ish on a sport coat, not on a suit. He's made a mistake there.

I don't like turn-ups on trousers.

Formby, I agree jacket is too short.  I like turn-ups---but not those.

SartorialInquis1tion wrote:

http://fcorbera.smugmug.com/photos/i-z6 … kfB-X3.jpg

Jackets a bit on the short side, but it suits him 10x better than his Steed stuff

Boring colour sceme for people with no imagination. Silly leg cuffs for people who don't know how to dress in a suit for the right effect, and a silly spalla camicia with extra boofy sleeves that look silly like monkey Mike's and Mafoofan's suits. Pthh.

Late edit: + what's with all this 3-2 roll bullshit? He looks like a `trad cheapy' over at Andy's place. Silly. KInd of thrift shoppy, + the material doesn't look crash hot either. + the short jackert makes it look too sporty and very unbusiness-like. Hard to take seriously in a suit like that, something a light - medium weight would wear.

Last edited by The_Shooman (2011-10-26 02:15:58)

The_Shooman wrote:

Big Tony wrote:

Sart0rialInquisition wrote:

i know most of the guys here don't like him, but that suit is pretty much A1 spot-on: (guy in the middle, not the teenage boys playing miami vice meets granpa grouch on the left and right)

http://www.livincool.com/wp-content/upl … 11-166.jpg

As far as it goes, I think the tall guy has the best fitting jacket on.

You are probably correct. Notice how his suit collar sits around his shirt collar much better. l am no expert in this, but the guy in the middle look like his tailor has used a basic block technique to cut the suit (not a customized suit cut pattern) and has relied on `fitting' to try to get the block pattern to fit the client, but as usual it hasn't quite worked and we get the effect where the suit is not sitting nice and high on his neck, it looks like it wants to fall off his neck (wide cut collar). My tailor has shown me numerous examples of this type of work by so called worldclass names before and shows me how they all fail to stay on the neck even in not so stretched positions. lt shows very few tailors are capable of making a great suit because they have old school cutting skills using a block and don't know how to customize properly.

My tailor and l have done experiments on this subject so l know it's not bullshit, l have seen the proof. Very few tailors know how to cut a suit properly.

Show us some of your experiments.
I hope they are better than what we have seen from "one of the last real cutters and modellists of Italy" in another thread (dont remember who posted that back then).

l wouldn't have had such opinions if l hadn't spent alot of time with my tailor talking about this type of stuff. lt actually took me afew years before l knew what he was talking about, then after a while it made sense when he showed me for the 20th time.

When l like something alot, you'll all know about it, but it is few and far between. Star tailors and cordwainers don't grow on trees, there are only a handful of them around.

The tailor of the bloke with the fury face is almost a star (sleeves are godly), but he is not quite.

g- wrote:

formby wrote:

SartorialInquis1tion wrote:

http://fcorbera.smugmug.com/photos/i-z6 … kfB-X3.jpg

Jackets a bit on the short side, but it suits him 10x better than his Steed stuff

Yeah, looks a bit trimmer than his Steed stuff. Length wise, I prefer the Steed stuff. English tailors cut a longer coat which I think is more flattering.

He seems to have had those shirt sleeve thingies done as well. Acceptable-ish on a sport coat, not on a suit. He's made a mistake there.

I don't like turn-ups on trousers.

Formby, I agree jacket is too short.  I like turn-ups---but not those.

Fair enough, if you like 'em you like 'em and you should get them.

The reason I don't like them though, is because I feel that they add [visual] bulk to the bottom of the trousers. Its all mixed in with why I don't like trousers cut to narrow and to short, ostentatious shoes like monkstraps or those bloody clodhoppers 'foo wears &c.

For me, you're just drawing attention to the wrong end of your body.

Can we have a picture of clodhoppers please?

Simon wrote:

Can we have a picture of clodhoppers please?

Easy, just take a look in the Gunboats thread.

formby wrote:

Simon wrote:

Can we have a picture of clodhoppers please?

Easy, just take a look in the Gunboats thread.

Ah, got you now. Not my thing either.

I've some nice grain leather brogues by Barker I like to team up with jeans, chunky but like you say, nice for casual. Always thought of chunky shoes as a winter thing for some reason, ok with heavy cloths but summer weights or, as you say, narrow trousers a bit of a no-no. I've also got some AS tan & white spectators that are chunky. Really like them with some beige flannel trousers I've got but as of yet have lacked the bottle to wear them outside the house. I tend to go for thinner soled shoes. Big feet you see.
   I have a hard time finding shoes I like.