Jeff Dexter informs that's what Georgie Fame's Austin's Jacket on RnB at The Flamingo was made from over on Facebook.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_T64CgXT5p-I/S8F2_To6IKI/AAAAAAAAFfc/Hiu0XLUhNvg/s1600/Georgie-Fame-Rhythm-And-Blues-299785.jpg
It sems to be some kind of over-printed Madras, they do say.
Interesting & new to me.
Who knows what about Batik Madras? How widespread was it in the Ivy styled world?
The album is from '64, as you know.
Thanks -
good stuff!
I still love this forum!
Wonder if his Blue BD is an Arrow, although I think they stocked Enro too...
The jacket would seem to be Austin's own make from the FB talk, so that's US or Canada, unless it was a Custom job in London. Lou Austin had US shops too...
Batik is a form of ethnic fabric printing practised in SE Asia, particularly Malaysia. 'Bateek Hello Mister' is the stallholders call.
How about this jacket that Zac has for sale over on on Newton Street Vintage:
http://www.etsy.com/listing/67083659/vintage-1950s-1960s-batik-print-sack
It's certainly an attention grabber. I've been contemplating a madras blazer for this summer but I don't think I'm quite ready for this!
Last edited by Harpo (2011-02-22 13:50:28)
So here's the question:
Jivy Ivy (Ivy Jivy) is a recorded style, but what is Jivy & what isn't?
To us looking back a thing looks LOUD... But at the time, in context, was it just pretty ordinary?
Reyn Spooner? 'Resort Wear'? (Remember that category?)
The much later Tom Woolfe coinage 'Go To Hell' (Which I introduced & popularised on the online forums as 'GTH') works in this way too -
What is 'GTH' now may very well be only our own ill-informed perception.
Ivy is a Big Country - The Paisley Popover maybe GTH-ish now, but it never was THEN.
So what's what?
Thoughts?
Yes, I think our perception of what's loud and what's not has deffo. shifted over the years.
The "Resort Wear" thing - I think people wer a lot more aware of context in the past - e.g. a paisly shirt at the beach, a batik madras jacket for cocktails on vac. in Florida wouldn't have turned heads. People dressed for work, and dressed for play accordingly. Now people dress for work like they're about to do some gardening - context has been lost to a degree?
When I look through 1940's & 1950's copies of National Geographic I never fail to marvel at some of the colour/pattern combinations of the ‘resort wear' whether illustrated in holiday ads or in those distinctive deeply saturated colour photos that accompany the articles. Some of the outfits would definitely cause a stir in the Caribbean, Florida or wherever of 2011. The cut and style of the clothes are familiar enough but it’s the diversity of the colours that is the real shock to the modern eye.
Staceyboy
as far as i ever knew "jivy ivy" was a reference to the more extreme jazz styles. on here it seems to be used for everything from hawaiian shirts to elvis rockabilly suits. stamp out imprecise usage. onward!
I thought that Jivy Ivy was an exaggeration of Ivy styles... a little bit more slim than usual, shorter hemlines, skinny lapels, not just narrow ones...
and maybe a little bit more flash and loud, shiny sharkskin suits, you know... like the rat pack suits...
more Las Vegas entertainment than serious jazz musician...
I thought that some of Elvis' clothing was part of this, too.
Here's some great pics from the summer of 1952 pertinent to this thread
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?96702-Gentry-No.-3-Summer-1952&highlight=Gentry
nice, thanks!
This brings us back round to the 'Tiki' craze of the 50's and 60's which we discussed moons ago.
There are some fantastic shirts from that period, but when you would where them in a non-ironic fashion, I don't know?
So how big a statement was the material of Georgie's jacket in London back in the day?
It must have been a real bolt from the blue. Maybe?
(See the cute thing I did there about a bolt of cloth? Oh the fun we have !)
^ Whoa! That's madder than mine - but, worn as it should be - white shirt, simple chinos, dark tie - it works. You're saying -I've got this sucker under control....
Top marks.
Howard Rumsey's Lighthouse club originally had a Polynesian theme, and there's plenty of photos of a young Chet and Miles in Hawaiian shirts and one of Chet in a Polynesian style jumper at one of the Pacific Jazz session photographed by Claxton.
The last companies to do batik styles, must have been Mambo and Ocean Pacific back in 1988.
As per Harpo's and Staceyboy comments and Cardinals photos and links attest to, is that there was a major catacylism between vacation wear and normality. Dressing for context indeed, maybe they were more professional at work than now and really let rip during their holidays, much more than now. Quite possibly.