You are not logged in.

#126 2010-02-20 07:05:13

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 10714

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Here's some bespoke done pretty darn well by Thomas Mahon:
http://www.englishcut.com/archives/2010_01.html

You don't see much bespoke on the forums that looks as good as that.


Buff's Bastards......exposing message board inanity and keeping false GODS accountable since 2006!

Only gemming failure could make this poor sucker's life worse - Sammy

 

#127 2010-02-20 07:28:51

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 10714

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Compare the Rubinacci back drape to this by Thomas Mahon:
http://www.englishcut.com/archives/2009_02.html


Thomas Mahon's is definately cleaner and more artistic. Still, collar doesn't look the best.

Last edited by The_Shooman (2010-02-20 07:32:09)


Buff's Bastards......exposing message board inanity and keeping false GODS accountable since 2006!

Only gemming failure could make this poor sucker's life worse - Sammy

 

#128 2010-02-20 07:38:41

zebear
Member
Posts: 67

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

The_Shooman wrote:

Here's some bespoke done pretty darn well by Thomas Mahon:
http://www.englishcut.com/archives/2010_01.html

You don't see much bespoke on the forums that looks as good as that.

Yep, but you don't see the back here...

 

#129 2010-02-23 03:29:16

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 10714

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

l don't really know, but l knew there had to be something suspect about this W.W Chan mob.
http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php? … ostcount=1

How any tailor can make bespoke for those prices without cutting corners is beyond me.


Buff's Bastards......exposing message board inanity and keeping false GODS accountable since 2006!

Only gemming failure could make this poor sucker's life worse - Sammy

 

#130 2010-03-07 02:06:36

Horace
Member
Posts: 6067

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

The_Shooman wrote:

Horace The Sneek wrote:

The_Shooman wrote:

Looks like a suit my grand-ma used to wear. Dowdy is the word. l hope he lives in the country, l couldn't imagine men wearing that in the city.

Stylish farmer suit, but oh that clashing lining. Colour blind perhaps?

Beats walking around the bush bare foot, all strung out on Wigemore, though don't it?

The vile one returns. l saw the little stunt you pulled over at the other place. What a creep.

l can't believe that some guy actually holds onto peoples pictures for years and years and then suddenly posts it on an online forum 4 years later. The guys feathers get ruffled and he throws a tantrum. Pathetic.

l've busted you afew times on your sneaky antics (you reckon you're smart, but you've made afew crucial mistakes). You call me "mate" to my face [when you want something] and then shit all over me. Manton had you worked out all along.

lf you knew the stunts a certain field rat has pulled you probably wouldn't wanna talk to it either.

Did one of your buddies P.M you at the trad forum creep boy? l knew my smile would bring you out of the woodwork.

Anyway, i've said my piece to you fella.

Pictures?  I have no idea what your on about.  But I've never called you "mate".  That you can be sure of.  Ye gods, you're back on the pipe, right?


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#131 2010-03-07 03:28:48

Horace
Member
Posts: 6067

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

The_Shooman wrote:

l can't remember writing that so l must apologise, maybe i've been smoking too much crack lately and it's effecting my brain.  You've always been a good bloke in my book. Sorry mate.

What the hell, everyone has an off night or two....


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#132 2010-03-07 03:39:28

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 10714

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Horace wrote:

The_Shooman wrote:

Horace The Sneek wrote:


Beats walking around the bush bare foot, all strung out on Wigemore, though don't it?

The vile one returns. l saw the little stunt you pulled over at the other place. What a creep.

l can't believe that some guy actually holds onto peoples pictures for years and years and then suddenly posts it on an online forum 4 years later. The guys feathers get ruffled and he throws a tantrum. Pathetic.

l've busted you afew times on your sneaky antics (you reckon you're smart, but you've made afew crucial mistakes). You call me "mate" to my face [when you want something] and then shit all over me. Manton had you worked out all along.

lf you knew the stunts a certain field rat has pulled you probably wouldn't wanna talk to it either.

Did one of your buddies P.M you at the trad forum creep boy? l knew my smile would bring you out of the woodwork.

Anyway, i've said my piece to you fella.

But I've never called you "mate".  That you can be sure of.  Ye gods, you're back on the pipe, right?

You sound angry.


Buff's Bastards......exposing message board inanity and keeping false GODS accountable since 2006!

Only gemming failure could make this poor sucker's life worse - Sammy

 

#133 2010-03-16 07:56:21

Tailoring Police
Member
Posts: 287

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.ph … amp;page=4




gomestar;3052532 wrote:

here are some more from a Solito jacket.  First bespoke effort, so be gentle (I've already noticed a small adjustment or two for next time).  I have trousers of the same fabric being worked on by Ambrosi.  And yes, the jacket is decently short, I'm very thin (34" chest) but not short (5'8") so too long would make me look like a pencil.  I asked Luigi if it should be longer, but he said no.  My arms are pretty long but the jacket still covers the ass.  The shirt is Borrelli, trousers are Howard Yount (highly recommended).

http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/28806/2511168230043813381S500x500Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb47.webshots.com/36206/2251930500043813381S500x500Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb43.webshots.com/43818/2175716820043813381S500x500Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/42975/2761852640043813381S500x500Q85.jpg

Not sure if Manton will like my pocket as much as his:
http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/25814/2036354270043813381S500x500Q85.jpg

recall the pattern from an earlier post
http://inlinethumb51.webshots.com/16690/2727779030043813381S500x500Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb39.webshots.com/47078/2440267720043813381S500x500Q85.jpg

From the inside:
http://inlinethumb56.webshots.com/5111/2958686750043813381S500x500Q85.jpg

 

#134 2010-03-16 07:57:54

Tailoring Police
Member
Posts: 287

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php? … stcount=59

Manton;3052588 wrote:

Solito DB:

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/6585/solitodb.jpg

The pents are a good inch too big in the waist and are going back.  I think the button stance is maybe a hair too high and the crossover too wide.  I love the SB they did for me and think I will stick with that in the future.

There is something tricky about this picture which I may or may not reveal in the future.

 

#135 2010-03-16 08:29:33

Big Tony
Member
Posts: 5478

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Terrible, terrible fitting suits. Some of these tailors have no shame, or perhaps they're deliberately sending the iGents out badly fitted as some sort of revenge?


"What sort of post-apocalyptic deathscape is this?"
"I don't want to look like a cock hungry sailor after all !!!"
"When it comes to infidelity, broken families, and reckless fatherhood, the underclass are amateurs."

 

#136 2010-03-16 12:36:07

Grossgrain Silk
Member
From: The Inner Bar
Posts: 877

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

There is no effort here to address the figure of the person wearing the clothing. The guy with the single breasted has a left shoulder fit which is simply wrong. I suppose the wide lapels and the short fit are matters of taste, but the collar is a screw up.

Manton is tall and thin. Why he chooses a shape that narrows his shoulders and makes them bottle necked is beyond me. The waist is baggy and the alignment at the bottom of the jacket looks off. I also don't think the trouser fault is that they are too wide. I wonder, given the bagging on the inside of the leg, whether the seam is straight and centred. It looks like there's a pleat where there shouldn't be one.

 

#137 2010-03-16 14:24:23

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Tailoring Police wrote:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=126475&page=4

The front drapes well, not that hard to achieve on such a thin frame.... Can't believe he has a 34 in. chest at 5'8", that's 10 in. less than my size, and I am shorter. Other than that... not... good.


"Luxury is a necessity that begins where necessity ends" Coco Chanel
"A man cannot be born a tailor, but he can be born rich. The patrimony can be inherited, but not the art." Giancarlo Maresca

 

#138 2010-03-16 15:37:51

Gilgamesh2003
Member
Posts: 1375

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/foru … p?t=103210
I hesitate to contribute this unfortunate Bookster made-to-measure since it's not really bespoke and the guy who ordered it seems pleasant and not too smug-iGenty, but the fit is, shall we say, not super. Someone should probably also explain to the iGent community that Bookster is giving them equestrian hacking coats.

 

#139 2010-03-16 16:55:59

Grossgrain Silk
Member
From: The Inner Bar
Posts: 877

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Bookster jackets are ok. The arm is cut big and low: the fold thus created is exaggerated by the waist suppression. It is a typical equestrian fit - you need a bit of room to control that there hos. I find that it looks inelegant in other settings, but that is a matter of taste. Material perfectly decent. But it is RTW standard and it looks it - which is to say that if you are the right shape it will suit. In fairness, the people are nice and the price reflects the above. It is not Bookster's fault that some of their customers have convinced themselves that they are getting bespoke quality at a fraction of the price...

 

#140 2010-03-16 18:23:21

Gilgamesh2003
Member
Posts: 1375

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Grossgrain Silk wrote:

It is a typical equestrian fit - you need a bit of room to control that there hos. I find that it looks inelegant in other settings, but that is a matter of taste.

I agree completely - the OP bought his to wear around a library and it's going to look weird. I find it sort of darling that many igents imagine that Bookster is a generic English country cut rather than horsey sportswear. I can't wait for them to glom onto another nice internet niche retailer - maybe MTM ice skating outfits? Semi-bespoke Highland Games uniforms?

 

#141 2010-03-17 04:49:14

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

I do not think the hacking jacket is the most interesting aspect of Bookster.

I am intrigued that he has persuaded so many to buy jackets - sight unseen - from another country.

You supply your own measurements and buy clothing in some very strong patterns. Screaming windowpane checks - stuff that was previously fashionable in the time of  'Three Men in a Boat'.

I suspect the following are important to those customers :-
1) difference to what they can get locally
2) an internet reputation
3) customising options
4) Knowing where the cloth originates and that all-important cloth weight number.
5) Garments that you could wear in one of those crap British TV dramas that Americans like so much.

'I am really pleased with my latest Bookster suit. I had to wait eight months for it. Unfortunately I will not be able to wear it in Arizona until next Winter. It fits really well and is so much better than my Jos A Banks suit. I have not seen anything similar in Phoenix'

 

#142 2010-03-17 09:15:52

Junior Astaire
Member
Posts: 270

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Tailoring Police wrote:

http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php?p=3052588&postcount=59

Manton;3052588 wrote:

Solito DB:

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/6585/solitodb.jpg

The pents are a good inch too big in the waist and are going back.  I think the button stance is maybe a hair too high and the crossover too wide.  I love the SB they did for me and think I will stick with that in the future.

There is something tricky about this picture which I may or may not reveal in the future.

Those buttons are set weird. What an ugly suit. Someone said he was skinny but he looks out of shape like a flabby pear.

 

#143 2010-03-17 09:26:34

JohnL
Member
From: Oxford, UK
Posts: 254

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Grossgrain Silk wrote:

Bookster jackets are ok. The arm is cut big and low: the fold thus created is exaggerated by the waist suppression. It is a typical equestrian fit - you need a bit of room to control that there hos. I find that it looks inelegant in other settings, but that is a matter of taste. Material perfectly decent. But it is RTW standard and it looks it - which is to say that if you are the right shape it will suit. In fairness, the people are nice and the price reflects the above. It is not Bookster's fault that some of their customers have convinced themselves that they are getting bespoke quality at a fraction of the price...

I agree. I would not even call their jackets MTM as you just get to adjust a few standard measurements but they are reasonably priced with a selection of decent cloths (Glenhunt, Porter & Harding, Hardy etc) and "bespoke" options. I have several jackets that give good service around the house, walking the dogs etc.  I would not use them for a business suit over a good off the peg suit and certainly not vs a good semi-bespoke (at twice the price!). I considered them for a linen jacket (which would not get much wear) but am not convinced the cut will work so will either get one off the peg or splash out on a good semi-bespoke one.

I also have 22oz tweed +6's and some moleskin trousers from them that were excellent value and well put together if a trifle "rustic". Also a moleskin waistcoat that I wear with a bespoke mid weight tweed shooting suit without embarrassment (I could not justify the price of having it done bespoke and in any case wanted something warmer).

Their trousers have a slightly lower rise than my bespoke tailor prefers and are of fairly narrow cut but I understand you can change this if you want and, for a fee, go as far as having your own trouser pattern made.

WARNING: the colours shown on their web site are sometimes way off – get swatches if you don’t know the cloth!


"The less taste a person has in dress, the more obstinate he always seems to be. It is a great pity. Because he will never be a success as it" - Jerome K Jerome http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVHUA4dZ … re=related

 

#144 2010-03-19 08:22:07

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7900

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Grossgrain Silk wrote:

There is no effort here to address the figure of the person wearing the clothing. The guy with the single breasted has a left shoulder fit which is simply wrong. I suppose the wide lapels and the short fit are matters of taste, but the collar is a screw up.

Manton is tall and thin. Why he chooses a shape that narrows his shoulders and makes them bottle necked is beyond me. The waist is baggy and the alignment at the bottom of the jacket looks off. I also don't think the trouser fault is that they are too wide. I wonder, given the bagging on the inside of the leg, whether the seam is straight and centred. It looks like there's a pleat where there shouldn't be one.

A tailor told me very wide hips and bandy legs produces that trouser result.


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#145 2010-03-20 10:14:27

Tailoring Police
Member
Posts: 287

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

 

#146 2010-03-20 11:51:55

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Big Tony wrote:

Terrible, terrible fitting suits. Some of these tailors have no shame, or perhaps they're deliberately sending the iGents out badly fitted as some sort of revenge?

Neapolitan tailors overly hassled by OCD customers have been known to take sartorial-related vengeance in liew of a broken kneecap.


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#147 2010-03-21 12:57:18

Junior Astaire
Member
Posts: 270

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Tailoring Police wrote:

http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php?p=3066117&postcount=6790


http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/3589/p10203152.jpg

Manton is my favorite clothing clown. That fabric looks like someone acid washed it. Still, it takes your eyes off his chimp like arms. It really looks like his hips are much wider than his shoulders.

 

#148 2010-03-21 22:21:14

Tailoring Police
Member
Posts: 287

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

We might need the S.W.A.T team for this offense.

http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php? … count=6899

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q163/jccavanaugh/DSCF6118.jpg http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q163/jccavanaugh/closeup.jpg

 

#149 2010-03-21 22:34:55

Tailoring Police
Member
Posts: 287

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

As if these two douche bags know when someone is well dressed.

http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php? … count=6826

http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php? … count=6726


What did someone say before about his stance? He looks like he put his face behind a cardboard cut out.

http://vox.smugmug.com/Fashion/soigne/1/813280619_pYHVV-X3.jpg

http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php? … count=6620

 

#150 2010-03-22 03:02:58

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Tailoring Police wrote:

As if these two douche bags know when someone is well dressed.

http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php? … count=6826

http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php? … count=6726


What did someone say before about his stance? He looks like he put his face behind a cardboard cut out.

http://vox.smugmug.com/Fashion/soigne/1 … HVV-X3.jpg

http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php? … count=6620

You mean the sissy stance? aka the overactive bladder pose? He probably got treated for that, or wears diapers, hence the more normal stance.

In any case, Photoshop is indeed a powerful software tool.


"Luxury is a necessity that begins where necessity ends" Coco Chanel
"A man cannot be born a tailor, but he can be born rich. The patrimony can be inherited, but not the art." Giancarlo Maresca

 

Board footer

Powered by PunBB
© Copyright 2002–2008 Rickard Andersson