You are not logged in.

#176 2010-04-06 17:54:59

formby
Member
From: Old Sarum
Posts: 6109

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Fred49 wrote:

I have a darker grey but thought that god had invented other colors for a reason. Then he spoke to me and said
"Dormeuil has a light grey use it well my son" and I made it so.

Your god spoke in tongues...

Enjoy your suit...smile


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#177 2010-04-06 20:30:22

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7923

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Fred49 wrote:

I have a darker grey but thought that god had invented other colors for a reason. Then he spoke to me and said
"Dormeuil has a light grey use it well my son" and I made it so.

That's believable. God often afflicts those whom he loves most.


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#178 2010-04-07 10:31:51

Fred49
New member
Posts: 9

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Hahah thanks guys. I will be lurking and checking up on you.

 

#179 2010-04-07 10:35:16

Fred49
New member
Posts: 9

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

I forgot to ask where can I find the FNB approved fabric choices etc? Do you have a specific thread recommendation that I could check out?

 

#180 2010-04-07 13:38:08

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7923

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Fred49 wrote:

I forgot to ask where can I find the FNB approved fabric choices etc? Do you have a specific thread recommendation that I could check out?

I don't know that you actually need help to select a better fabric. wink


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#181 2010-04-08 11:21:37

Fred49
New member
Posts: 9

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

ah then approved fabric colors? suggestions?

 

#182 2010-04-08 17:33:01

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7923

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Fred49 wrote:

ah then approved fabric colors? suggestions?

Let me ask you first, did you select that light grey fabric or did someone recommend it to you?


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#183 2010-04-10 07:19:31

Junior Astaire
Moderator
Posts: 270

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

How do you like this happy crappy?


http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii92/rgrossicone/WAYWT/IMG_6872.jpg

 

#184 2010-04-10 07:34:11

formby
Member
From: Old Sarum
Posts: 6109

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Junior Astaire wrote:

How do you like this happy crappy?


http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii92 … G_6872.jpg

What's good about NYR is that he's having fun, his stuff can be a bit wacky and not to everyone's taste but he doesn't seem hidebound, which is refreshing to see, especially on the foraz.


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#185 2010-04-10 07:44:00

Big Tony
Member
Posts: 5478

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

formby wrote:

Junior Astaire wrote:

How do you like this happy crappy?


http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii92 … G_6872.jpg

What's good about NYR is that he's having fun, his stuff can be a bit wacky and not to everyone's taste but he doesn't seem hidebound, which is refreshing to see, especially on the foraz.

Yeah but the 70s are over.


"What sort of post-apocalyptic deathscape is this?"
"I don't want to look like a cock hungry sailor after all !!!"
"When it comes to infidelity, broken families, and reckless fatherhood, the underclass are amateurs."

 

#186 2010-04-10 07:51:13

formby
Member
From: Old Sarum
Posts: 6109

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Big Tony wrote:

formby wrote:

Junior Astaire wrote:

How do you like this happy crappy?


http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii92 … G_6872.jpg

What's good about NYR is that he's having fun, his stuff can be a bit wacky and not to everyone's taste but he doesn't seem hidebound, which is refreshing to see, especially on the foraz.

Yeah but the 70s are over.

The 70's are never over....baby....!!!!!!!!!!!


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#187 2010-04-10 08:34:02

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7923

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

formby wrote:

Big Tony wrote:

formby wrote:


What's good about NYR is that he's having fun, his stuff can be a bit wacky and not to everyone's taste but he doesn't seem hidebound, which is refreshing to see, especially on the foraz.

Yeah but the 70s are over.

The 70's are never over....baby....!!!!!!!!!!!

True but there are good seventies and bad seventies. That outfit looks like he is actually attending a seventies party as an old geezer in double knits. The only thing missing is the life sized painted parrot tie with rhinestone eyes.

Also, the cut of that jacket is  travesty of a mockery of a sham. Dumpy, klunky and poorly planned jacket.


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#188 2010-04-10 08:41:03

formby
Member
From: Old Sarum
Posts: 6109

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Film Noir Buff wrote:

formby wrote:

Big Tony wrote:

Yeah but the 70s are over.

The 70's are never over....baby....!!!!!!!!!!!

True but there are good seventies and bad seventies. That outfit looks like he is actually attending a seventies party as an old geezer in double knits. The only thing missing is the life sized painted parrot tie with rhinestone eyes.

Also, the cut of that jacket is  travesty of a mockery of a sham. Dumpy, klunky and poorly planned jacket.

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee275/rocketcabs/SHAFT-Richard_Roundtree-1971.jpg

baaaaaaaaaaadddddddddd mutha..........


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#189 2010-04-10 09:01:52

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Junior Astaire wrote:

How do you like this happy crappy?


http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii92 … G_6872.jpg

At least he trimmed the beard at last.

 

#190 2010-04-10 10:19:56

zebear
Member
Posts: 67

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

I think the main problem is the measurements of the jacket, not necessarily the pattern or colour. It is obviously too small in the waist and chest (about one or two std sizes). The pattern in widowpane glenchecks is just making the measurement problem more salient visually. Otherwise, this style is not necessarily that bad...

Oh yes, the jacket is also a tad too long, so are the arms, and once again the pattern is absolutely not the 'forgiving' variety.

Last edited by zebear (2010-04-10 10:22:50)

 

#191 2010-04-10 10:29:00

zebear
Member
Posts: 67

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

The suit is kinda all right (maybe a bit big in the shoulders and could have done with a bit of padding, and maybe a bit less room in the waist). The two faux pas in my opinion are: (1) an american collar with a tie, and a shirt which is way too big, and (2) you should have considered a darker colour for the shirt and tie with this suit (like maybe blue plain or stripes and red).

While I do prefer dark coloured suits, I do not agree with the view that a cream or light shaded suit is not elegant in general.

 

#192 2010-04-10 11:13:06

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7923

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

zebear wrote:

I think the main problem is the measurements of the jacket, not necessarily the pattern or colour. It is obviously too small in the waist and chest (about one or two std sizes). The pattern in widowpane glenchecks is just making the measurement problem more salient visually. Otherwise, this style is not necessarily that bad...

Oh yes, the jacket is also a tad too long, so are the arms, and once again the pattern is absolutely not the 'forgiving' variety.

That jacket has numerous construction and design flaws. Keep looking at it.


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#193 2010-04-10 11:39:43

Jeeves
The Gentleman's Gentleman
Posts: 420

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

zebear wrote:

The suit is kinda all right (maybe a bit big in the shoulders and could have done with a bit of padding, and maybe a bit less room in the waist). The two faux pas in my opinion are: (1) an american collar with a tie, and a shirt which is way too big, and (2) you should have considered a darker colour for the shirt and tie with this suit (like maybe blue plain or stripes and red).

While I do prefer dark coloured suits, I do not agree with the view that a cream or light shaded suit is not elegant in general.

The biggest improvement would be if he breathed out. The rigid pose makes it very difficult to say anything about the fit but from what can be told the shoulders look wide which is unnecessary because he doesn't need to compensate for huge wide hips. I'm not sure about the shoulders themselves but they look a little lumpy and the right shoulder needs more padding. The chest seems to have gone missing which means the whole thing looks boxy, but a good pressing might well fix that. Sleeve length is a personal thing but those look uneven and long to me - I would take 1/2" off the right sleeve and 1" off the left if his stance really is even (it looks like there is a marked drop to the right).

The trousers are a train-wreck and I'm not sure what needs doing. The bunching at the crotch needs sorting, and they are very short for my tastes. They need some sort of taper if they are going to be that short because otherwise they make his legs look odd. I am also not sure if they are even but the right leg looks shorter.

Stylistically I would like a bit more shape to the waist, but then I am not an American. In general I think the whole suit is interesting because although it is from an English tailor it strikes me as far more American than English. On the detail I dislike the ticket pocket because it breaks up what little line there is. I like the jetted pockets personally. I don't think the shoes work with that suit. I don't like the colour because it is very light (blame my cultural conditioning) but that isn't fixable so wear it something other than a white shirt and light tie.

Top fix for the jacket - sort out the sleeve length. For the trousers I really don't know - lengthen them would help.

 

#194 2010-04-10 14:52:01

Grossgrain Silk
Member
From: The Inner Bar
Posts: 877

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Jeeves wrote:

zebear wrote:

The suit is kinda all right (maybe a bit big in the shoulders and could have done with a bit of padding, and maybe a bit less room in the waist). The two faux pas in my opinion are: (1) an american collar with a tie, and a shirt which is way too big, and (2) you should have considered a darker colour for the shirt and tie with this suit (like maybe blue plain or stripes and red).

While I do prefer dark coloured suits, I do not agree with the view that a cream or light shaded suit is not elegant in general.

The biggest improvement would be if he breathed out. The rigid pose makes it very difficult to say anything about the fit but from what can be told the shoulders look wide which is unnecessary because he doesn't need to compensate for huge wide hips. I'm not sure about the shoulders themselves but they look a little lumpy and the right shoulder needs more padding. The chest seems to have gone missing which means the whole thing looks boxy, but a good pressing might well fix that. Sleeve length is a personal thing but those look uneven and long to me - I would take 1/2" off the right sleeve and 1" off the left if his stance really is even (it looks like there is a marked drop to the right).

The trousers are a train-wreck and I'm not sure what needs doing. The bunching at the crotch needs sorting, and they are very short for my tastes. They need some sort of taper if they are going to be that short because otherwise they make his legs look odd. I am also not sure if they are even but the right leg looks shorter.

Stylistically I would like a bit more shape to the waist, but then I am not an American. In general I think the whole suit is interesting because although it is from an English tailor it strikes me as far more American than English. On the detail I dislike the ticket pocket because it breaks up what little line there is. I like the jetted pockets personally. I don't think the shoes work with that suit. I don't like the colour because it is very light (blame my cultural conditioning) but that isn't fixable so wear it something other than a white shirt and light tie.

Top fix for the jacket - sort out the sleeve length. For the trousers I really don't know - lengthen them would help.

Mahon designed suits for a shop called Reuben Alexander (now no more). This looks exactly like the suits they sold and I wonder whether it is bespoke.

I agree that it's too light (cultural conditioning again) but I have one of the same design. It's a very good 150 cloth (supers not normally my thing, but this was RTW so I had no choice) in the same pinstripe, although my base colour is charcoal. I got it as the place closed down and it required the following:
1. More padding in the shoulder. It is designed as a natural shoulder but as I have the same shape as Manton and more sense, I had a proper pad put in. It works fine.
2. Losing a little fullness in the thigh. I agree with Jeeves that this suggests an eye to the US market, where a fuller trouser seems the norm.
3. Cutting the thread losely securing the vented flap to the back of the jacket. I wonder if the guy in the picture has done this?

It is now a nice suit - not superlative but good for work on hot days. However, I don't wear braces although it has the buttons - it also has daks tops which I use. The guy in the photo looks as if he is wearing braces and they are pulled up so high that his capacity to reproduce himself is likely to become severely impaired.

As far as Rob's jacket is concerned it is too long, the sleeves are miles too wide, the pattern has limited appeal (and none at all in the UK) and it is cut too tight.

Last edited by Grossgrain Silk (2010-04-10 14:53:17)

 

#195 2010-04-10 17:34:05

zebear
Member
Posts: 67

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Grossgrain Silk wrote:

As far as Rob's jacket is concerned it is too long, the sleeves are miles too wide, the pattern has limited appeal (and none at all in the UK) and it is cut too tight.

I generally agree with the cut, albeit I think that any pattern can lead to a nice suit, sometimes an eccentric one though (it mostly depends on the cut and suit). There is however a lot going on with this cloth, which makes any fit or cut issue massively problematic (in other words, with a dark grey cloth, this suit, imho would look less puffy and ridiculous).

 

#196 2010-04-11 02:54:58

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 10861

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Grossgrain Silk wrote:

Mahon designed suits for a shop called Reuben Alexander (now no more). This looks exactly like the suits they sold and I wonder whether it is bespoke.
.

Yes, l wonder the same thing. lt doesn't even remotely look like the suits i've seen online made by Mahon, different style all together. No nice flow to the suit at all.


Buff's Bastards......exposing message board inanity and keeping false GODS accountable since 2006!

Sex - isn't that rude stuff that mums and dads do when they wanna have babies? - Frank Burke (Prisoner Cell Block H)

 

#197 2010-04-11 04:01:50

Grossgrain Silk
Member
From: The Inner Bar
Posts: 877

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

zebear wrote:

Grossgrain Silk wrote:

As far as Rob's jacket is concerned it is too long, the sleeves are miles too wide, the pattern has limited appeal (and none at all in the UK) and it is cut too tight.

I generally agree with the cut, albeit I think that any pattern can lead to a nice suit, sometimes an eccentric one though (it mostly depends on the cut and suit). There is however a lot going on with this cloth, which makes any fit or cut issue massively problematic (in other words, with a dark grey cloth, this suit, imho would look less puffy and ridiculous).

I agree that plain and dark is a lot more forgiving but I think that the width of the sleeves is a problem in any material. Length is to some extent a matter of choice, but unless you want to dress like the michelin man the sleeves are lousy.

 

#198 2010-04-11 09:45:12

zebear
Member
Posts: 67

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

my contribution to this cursed thread...


http://img27.xooimage.com/files/3/f/9/ohnona-2-1ac1a2f.jpg

 

#199 2010-04-11 09:46:50

zebear
Member
Posts: 67

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Grossgrain Silk wrote:

I agree that plain and dark is a lot more forgiving but I think that the width of the sleeves is a problem in any material. Length is to some extent a matter of choice, but unless you want to dress like the michelin man the sleeves are lousy.

I agree with the sleeves, though I am not sure that the impression is not just a visual effect: they are doubtless too long, but they may appear too wide because the sleeves are too long and the body is too tight...

 

#200 2010-04-11 10:43:14

seant
New member
Posts: 1

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Ouich! It's passé, I say.

 

Board footer

Powered by PunBB
© Copyright 2002–2008 Rickard Andersson