Me, of course.

I think this is a good idea for a thread. I can't think of anything at the mo, but I'll keep an eye out.

Bad idea, IMO.

It's all a matter of personal taste and context, no matter what approach one subscribes to..

Cruz Diez wrote:

As far as the pics can tell....

Save for a few details, this is a jacket that was, overall, tailored very well:

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/6585/solitodb.jpg


This one is excellent:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/21977945@N02/4999899134

Who made it, Jeffery D?

Cruz Diez wrote:

As far as the pics can tell....

Save for a few details, this is a jacket that was, overall, tailored very well:

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/6585/solitodb.jpg

I think Cruz is  a brave man for putting his money where his mouth is by being positive and saying what he likes and not just snarking all the time. However, how can  a jacket that makes someone  look as bad as this be considered to be 'tailored well'? The person wearing the jacket clearly doesn't have a body that can be considered attractive to Earthlings. I've just shown the pic to 3 women aged  between 24 and 44, asking them if they considered this person to be attractive. The younger ones made mock barfing noises,   and the more mature lady raised her eyebrows. How can an item of clothing that fails totally in compensating for the unkind tricks that nature has played on the wearer of this jacket be considered to be well- tailored?

Last edited by Sammy Ambrose (2011-01-16 08:07:01)

Sammy Ambrose wrote:

Cruz Diez wrote:

As far as the pics can tell....

Save for a few details, this is a jacket that was, overall, tailored very well:

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/6585/solitodb.jpg

I think Cruz is  a brave man for putting his money where his mouth is by being positive and saying what he likes and not just snarking all the time. However, how can  a jacket that makes someone  look as bad as this be considered to be 'tailored well'? The person wearing the jacket clearly doesn't have a body that can be considered attractive to Earthlings. I've just shown the pic to 3 women aged  between 24 and 44, asking them if they considered this person to be attractive. The younger ones made mock barfing noises,   and the more mature lady raised her eyebrows. How can an item of clothing that fails totally in compensating for the unkind tricks that nature has played on the wearer of this jacket be considered to be well- tailored?

The person is not too thin or overweight. Hands and neck may give clues to age. The suit fits well and wearer is probably going to look as well turned out as it gets. However, a Savile Row suit will not turn you into a sex symbol. Look at Fatty Soames.

Kingstonian wrote:

Sammy Ambrose wrote:

Cruz Diez wrote:

As far as the pics can tell....

Save for a few details, this is a jacket that was, overall, tailored very well:

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/6585/solitodb.jpg

I think Cruz is  a brave man for putting his money where his mouth is by being positive and saying what he likes and not just snarking all the time. However, how can  a jacket that makes someone  look as bad as this be considered to be 'tailored well'? The person wearing the jacket clearly doesn't have a body that can be considered attractive to Earthlings. I've just shown the pic to 3 women aged  between 24 and 44, asking them if they considered this person to be attractive. The younger ones made mock barfing noises,   and the more mature lady raised her eyebrows. How can an item of clothing that fails totally in compensating for the unkind tricks that nature has played on the wearer of this jacket be considered to be well- tailored?

The person is not too thin or overweight. Hands and neck may give clues to age. The suit fits well and wearer is probably going to look as well turned out as it gets. However, a Savile Row suit will not turn you into a sex symbol. Look at Fatty Soames.

Fatty Soames is beyond hope. But the body here is not. Jimmy Stewart had  a similiar gangly, rangy build. Good tailoring didn't turn him into  a sex symbol but it   made him sufficiently appealing to get plenty of female hearts fluttering. ( Of course the acting and voice helped a bit too!)

Last edited by Sammy Ambrose (2011-01-16 09:37:28)

What's wrong with the Jeffery D coat?

Big Tony wrote:

The_Shooman wrote:

What's wrong with the Jeffery D coat?

in my opinion it's bland as hell and has little character,

That's not such an out there statement. He makes a well fitting safe coat, but it's not too exciting is it. But still we can't be too hard to judge. Some can argue that my tailor makes some coats that look bland and unexciting too, but some of his other coats are just WOW; maybe Jefferey D is the same, they make what their clients want.

Last edited by The_Shooman (2011-01-17 06:51:33)

JDelage wrote:

There's a place for bland, quiet outfits.  It can work very well for some specific roles / personas.

+ 1

Big Tony wrote:

The_Shooman wrote:

What's wrong with the Jeffery D coat?

Since I'm the only guy who said anything negative about, I will take you up on that. Formby says it doesn't have any puckers or messy parts and he's correct, which when compared to Manton's horribly lumpy jacket, is a major positive. However, in my opinion it's bland as hell and has little character, and ultimately even set side-by-side with Manton's jacket I would pick neither. I'm sure he's the next tailor superstar (if the forums have anything to do with it) but he needs to add some character to his jackets. The stuff on his site and photos posted here and there, show the same 'perfection' but no character.

Pile on, guys.

I agree with you that it is a great fit but looks a little dull. However I wonder if that is the reality. The collar, the lighting and the tie are not flattering that coat at all. I also think that for a guy with a round shoulder he could do with a more military cut to square him off a bit. Perhaps the real complaint is that it doesn't suit his figure terribly well.

I must say that I think his blog is fascinating and the stuff he posts is well worth reading. If my sleeves had such perfect setting and adjustment I'd be a happy man, so - for once - he may be worth the talking up he is getting.

anotherinterestedobserver wrote:

I wonder whose idea it was to have the pockets lower than the bottom button, the tailor or the client. For me it's a major disaster.

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/6585/solitodb.jpg

No, no - Crud tells us that this was tailored well and Crud knows everything.

Shoulders too wide (I know - it's just so Neapolitan, but it also exaggerates his lankiness. He looks like a stick of spaghetti looking for a saucepan).
Lapels too wide - just so that the narrowness of his chest isn't disguised by the width of the shoulders. He'd be better off with a more military cut that shaped him up a bit.
Lapels too high - drawing attention to the aforementioned defects isn't clever.
Top button stance too wide because the button sits where his chest runs out and accentuates the fact. He'd be better off with a 4 x 2
Bottom button stance too narrow so that the button which is done up pulls slightly, thereby creating the illusion (or possible illusion) that Monsieur has a nice little pot belly to go with his pigeon chest and drooping shoulders.

He may have asked for every single one of these features, but the thing still makes him look worse than he is (or as good as) not better. And when I drop a lot of money on some tailoring I want something that will disguise my many deficiencies and make the most of what is passable. I can buy a suit that sort of fits at any decent department store and look like this.

The real igent problem - and Crud demonstrates it to perfection - is that the question of whether a garment flatters its wearer is lost amidst the desperate need to swing that tool and show that you really know how it all works. And maybe you do. But you have substituted a grasp of technical detail best left to the person who must put it into practice for an appreciation of what the item on which your money has been spent and which you will be seen in, in public, actually looks like. That makes you a pain to the tailor who you constantly second guess and an object of derision to those who see you.

Fit - it needs to last, to feel nice and to fit - not simply by hanging nicely but by making you look good. What else is the point?