Film Noir Buff wrote:

formby wrote:

Film Noir Buff wrote:

The jacket seems long. I dont like the white shirt on him because it washes him out. He seems already overcome by the pattern of the suit. Tie is also insipid, makes the suit look like it's about to devour a mouse.  I am not a huge fan of that overly nipped in waist. Shoulders look too big on him. Stripes seem set wrong from lapel to collar.

Have you guessed the tailor. If not, try

(try not to cheat by looking at the image info)

Looks like Dege, Kilgour, Huntsman, Poole etc. standard tight para-military UK suit. It wouldn't be so bad but for the length of the jacket. The stripe mismatch sets me off a bit. I dont mind the style except for that tight chest business.

It's actually a Huntsman, who, as you are no doubt aware, famed for their equestrian influenced cut. Long coat, high nipped waist, slim silhouette. That DNA seems to have carried over into their DB offerings.

The mismatch at the collar doesn't bother me that much, nor does the stripe running off the lapel.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say this man looks very well turned out, especially for his age and given he seems to be attending a casual event. (Not that it matters, but the woman is a Kardashian or someone.)

Big Tony wrote:

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say this man looks very well turned out, especially for his age and given he seems to be attending a casual event. (Not that it matters, but the woman is a Kardashian or someone.)

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/ … 266_59.jpghttp://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/ … 266_53.jpghttp://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/ … 266_18.jpg

He looks like he's wearing Hugo Boss.

Cruz Diez wrote:

matrixxx wrote:

Big Tony wrote:

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say this man looks very well turned out, especially for his age and given he seems to be attending a casual event. (Not that it matters, but the woman is a Kardashian or someone.)

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/ … 266_59.jpghttp://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/ … 266_53.jpghttp://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/ … 266_18.jpg

He looks like he's wearing Hugo Boss.

RTW with too wide shoulders.

Big Tony here, failed.

matrixxx wrote:

Cruz Diez wrote:

matrixxx wrote:

He looks like he's wearing Hugo Boss.

RTW with too wide shoulders.

Big Tony here, failed.

I don't think Big Tony failed here.  The fit is less than perfect, but the selection is classic and definitely well put together.

Grossgrain Silk wrote:

anotherinterestedobserver wrote:

I wonder whose idea it was to have the pockets lower than the bottom button, the tailor or the client. For me it's a major disaster.

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/6585/solitodb.jpg

No, no - Crud tells us that this was tailored well and Crud knows everything.

Shoulders too wide (I know - it's just so Neapolitan, but it also exaggerates his lankiness. He looks like a stick of spaghetti looking for a saucepan).
Lapels too wide - just so that the narrowness of his chest isn't disguised by the width of the shoulders. He'd be better off with a more military cut that shaped him up a bit.
Lapels too high - drawing attention to the aforementioned defects isn't clever.
Top button stance too wide because the button sits where his chest runs out and accentuates the fact. He'd be better off with a 4 x 2
Bottom button stance too narrow so that the button which is done up pulls slightly, thereby creating the illusion (or possible illusion) that Monsieur has a nice little pot belly to go with his pigeon chest and drooping shoulders.

He may have asked for every single one of these features, but the thing still makes him look worse than he is (or as good as) not better. And when I drop a lot of money on some tailoring I want something that will disguise my many deficiencies and make the most of what is passable. I can buy a suit that sort of fits at any decent department store and look like this.

The real igent problem - and Crud demonstrates it to perfection - is that the question of whether a garment flatters its wearer is lost amidst the desperate need to swing that tool and show that you really know how it all works. And maybe you do. But you have substituted a grasp of technical detail best left to the person who must put it into practice for an appreciation of what the item on which your money has been spent and which you will be seen in, in public, actually looks like. That makes you a pain to the tailor who you constantly second guess and an object of derision to those who see you.

Fit - it needs to last, to feel nice and to fit - not simply by hanging nicely but by making you look good. What else is the point?

I thought I'd never said Crud knows anything and meant it.

Still, if Grayson so selectively quotes as to lie, I know I'm getting somewhere

So you admit you lied. Good for you - you're coming on.

Only ignorance left to admit, and you will be approaching normality.

Marc Grayson wrote:

Grossgrain Silk wrote:

So you admit you lied. Good for you - you're coming on.

Only ignorance left to admit, and you will be approaching normality.

I admit you're mentally ill.

Zip Lip.

g- wrote:

matrixxx wrote:

Cruz Diez wrote:

RTW with too wide shoulders.

Big Tony here, failed.

I don't think Big Tony failed here.  The fit is less than perfect, but the selection is classic and definitely well put together.

I think it's a good suit. But then I dislike the 45 degree Savile row faux-natural shoulders.

matrixxx wrote:

Do you even know what SR suits look like? Do you have any clue?

This guy's persistent.  I was quite pleased the one time I made the "bespoke wishes gone wrong thread" - it's the only time I've been so honored.  Unfortunately, it wasn't for my suit - a rather bland charcoal 3/2 sack - but rather for my blobby shell cordovan monks.  Maybe if I took some pictures of myself in a public bathroom...or stood "in the cut" like Manton.

Last edited by Cardinals5 (2011-05-10 17:51:55)

I shall go on a limb and say Hef looks well turned out here.

Big Tony wrote:

I shall go on a limb and say Hef looks well turned out here.

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/ … hoto_2.jpg

He has good accessories. That being said any self-respecting AAAC poster would firstly note the absence of a cummerbund.

Last edited by Kingstonian (2011-06-29 10:03:16)