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#126 2011-08-19 11:34:25

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7908

Re: When bespoke works right

formby wrote:

yachtie wrote:

True, but that said, there's  a difference between guidance and being overly prescriptive. I'm seeing more and more of the latter. I think that it has more to do with the poster's fears and inhibitions than with propriety. Probably stemming from a lack of knowledge as much as "I did this and didn't get into trouble, therefore it must be okay".

Aye, I read with much mirth that thread about DB suits you contributed to over on S.F.

Link?


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#127 2011-08-19 11:37:49

formby
Member
From: Old Sarum
Posts: 5952

Re: When bespoke works right

Film Noir Buff wrote:

formby wrote:

yachtie wrote:

True, but that said, there's  a difference between guidance and being overly prescriptive. I'm seeing more and more of the latter. I think that it has more to do with the poster's fears and inhibitions than with propriety. Probably stemming from a lack of knowledge as much as "I did this and didn't get into trouble, therefore it must be okay".

Aye, I read with much mirth that thread about DB suits you contributed to over on S.F.

Link?

http://www.styleforum.net/t/261676/first-blazer-suit-db


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#128 2011-08-19 12:02:57

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7908

Re: When bespoke works right

formby wrote:

Film Noir Buff wrote:

formby wrote:


Aye, I read with much mirth that thread about DB suits you contributed to over on S.F.

Link?

http://www.styleforum.net/t/261676/first-blazer-suit-db

I suppose it depends on what sort of job you're interviewing for. Maybe they want an individualist or someone with confidence. I rarely notice what people are wearing for interviews unless it's wildly inappropriate, like shorts and a dirty tennis shirt or some sort of zoot suit. Otherwise, if the person is well put together, I am happy. I dont know what kind of &^%$# would worry about whether you had on a SB or DB suit but it would say as much about the limitations of their background as anything else. Like Mutt and Jeff over at styleforum who apply their small world experience as the upper limit of choices. I als think that nowadays when the universities are churning out robots with no initiative that a self starter would look like a superhero and not a weirdo. I suppose if you are physically small or bizarre or have personality issues, then you might want to wear the plain grey SB.

I saw to different old, short men on two different days, both morbidly obese and wearing straw boaters. As much as I was impressed at the hat style, I wondered if they should be calling attention to themselves of this sort, especially because their suits were so sloppy and were wearing bad shoes (one of them seemed to be wearing Rockports!).


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#129 2011-08-19 12:11:15

Simon
On A Mission
From: Dean Swift's wardrobe
Posts: 693

Re: When bespoke works right

Are you mental? I liked that, very funny.


Blatant Modernist.

 

#130 2011-08-19 12:42:18

Bishop of Briggs
Member
Posts: 3184

Re: When bespoke works right

Ali Kebab wrote:

How'z that sprezzatura?

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_BrK7-q9mTrg/T … derdet.jpg

It isn't.

 

#131 2011-08-19 15:44:11

yachtie
Member
Posts: 843

Re: When bespoke works right

formby wrote:

yachtie wrote:

True, but that said, there's  a difference between guidance and being overly prescriptive. I'm seeing more and more of the latter. I think that it has more to do with the poster's fears and inhibitions than with propriety. Probably stemming from a lack of knowledge as much as "I did this and didn't get into trouble, therefore it must be okay".

Aye, I read with much mirth that thread about DB suits you contributed to over on S.F.

lol Glad to entertain. Man, that guy's a goof.

Last edited by yachtie (2011-08-19 15:45:20)


One conjects that you, sir, are an ascot flaunting, pomaded, proletarian mountebank fomenting discordance amongst this august body. -jamgood

 

#132 2011-08-19 15:45:22

K. A. Adams
Member
Posts: 257

Re: When bespoke works right

I've worked as a creative director in and around the architecture, design and fashion businesses. In these milieux one can essentially wear whatever they want.

I am perhaps dull or possibly even igenty in that I'd rather have the clients remember my face and my / our work rather than how I am dressed.

Don't get me wrong, I want the details, beauty and quality to be there for those whom take time to pay attention but I don't want my clothing to be overriding.

If, after a meeting,  a client were questioned about what I wore I'd rather they say ' I don't remember exactly but he was beautifully dressed '  than  'He was wearing this slamming Sexton suit with these crazy ropey shoulders - it was cool '

 

#133 2011-08-19 15:45:44

yachtie
Member
Posts: 843

Re: When bespoke works right

Simon wrote:

Are you mental? I liked that, very funny.

lol


One conjects that you, sir, are an ascot flaunting, pomaded, proletarian mountebank fomenting discordance amongst this august body. -jamgood

 

#134 2011-08-19 15:50:56

yachtie
Member
Posts: 843

Re: When bespoke works right

K. A. Adams wrote:

I've worked as a creative director in and around the architecture, design and fashion businesses. In these milieux one can essentially wear whatever they want.

I am perhaps dull or possibly even igenty in that I'd rather have the clients remember my face and my / our work rather than how I am dressed.

Don't get me wrong, I want the details, beauty and quality to be there for those whom take time to pay attention but I don't want my clothing to be overriding.

If, after a meeting,  a client were questioned about what I wore I'd rather they say ' I don't remember exactly but he was beautifully dressed '  than  'He was wearing this slamming Sexton suit with these crazy ropey shoulders - it was cool '

You gotta have a lot of personality to pull off a Sexton suit. For the right guy, no one would notice that either. It's the difference between wearing your clothes and being worn by them.

Last edited by yachtie (2011-08-19 15:55:37)


One conjects that you, sir, are an ascot flaunting, pomaded, proletarian mountebank fomenting discordance amongst this august body. -jamgood

 

#135 2011-08-19 16:51:11

formby
Member
From: Old Sarum
Posts: 5952

Re: When bespoke works right

yachtie wrote:

K. A. Adams wrote:

I've worked as a creative director in and around the architecture, design and fashion businesses. In these milieux one can essentially wear whatever they want.

I am perhaps dull or possibly even igenty in that I'd rather have the clients remember my face and my / our work rather than how I am dressed.

Don't get me wrong, I want the details, beauty and quality to be there for those whom take time to pay attention but I don't want my clothing to be overriding.

If, after a meeting,  a client were questioned about what I wore I'd rather they say ' I don't remember exactly but he was beautifully dressed '  than  'He was wearing this slamming Sexton suit with these crazy ropey shoulders - it was cool '

You gotta have a lot of personality to pull off a Sexton suit. For the right guy, no one would notice that either. It's the difference between wearing your clothes and being worn by them.

Yes.

Only certain types are drawn to the clothes that Sexton produces and they ain't the shrinking violet type.

This said, like any tailor he can and does cut conservative business suits.


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#136 2011-09-21 15:51:53

Big Tony
Member
Posts: 5478

Re: When bespoke works right

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/thumbs/1266_brando.jpg


"What sort of post-apocalyptic deathscape is this?"
"I don't want to look like a cock hungry sailor after all !!!"
"When it comes to infidelity, broken families, and reckless fatherhood, the underclass are amateurs."

 

#137 2011-09-21 16:37:40

ajs
Member
Posts: 70

Re: When bespoke works right

formby wrote:

Film Noir Buff wrote:

formby wrote:


Aye, I read with much mirth that thread about DB suits you contributed to over on S.F.

Link?

http://www.styleforum.net/t/261676/first-blazer-suit-db

That’s fantastic. It’s a long time since I’ve read a thread that funny on any of the clothing forums. How people who supposedly like clothing can be so small-minded in what they consider acceptable is incredible to me.

 

#138 2011-09-21 16:45:02

formby
Member
From: Old Sarum
Posts: 5952

Re: When bespoke works right

ajs wrote:

formby wrote:

Film Noir Buff wrote:


Link?

http://www.styleforum.net/t/261676/first-blazer-suit-db

That’s fantastic. It’s a long time since I’ve read a thread that funny on any of the clothing forums. How people who supposedly like clothing can be so small-minded in what they consider acceptable is incredible to me.

3 things that are guaranteed to get them excited over on S.F:

1. Double Breasted suits.

2. Single Breasted Peak Lapel suits

3. Ticket pockets.


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#139 2011-09-21 19:39:20

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7908

Re: When bespoke works right

formby wrote:

ajs wrote:

formby wrote:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/261676/first-blazer-suit-db

That’s fantastic. It’s a long time since I’ve read a thread that funny on any of the clothing forums. How people who supposedly like clothing can be so small-minded in what they consider acceptable is incredible to me.

3 things that are guaranteed to get them excited over on S.F:

1. Double Breasted suits.

2. Single Breasted Peak Lapel suits

3. Ticket pockets.

Welcome to the wide world of "I would like to but I just couldn't" . Fear is their only god.

I too have never seen people worry so much about DB suits as if it's some odd, alien button stance that announces you are an abnormal person who cannot be trusted. One would wearing the DB suit causes people to look down on you as if you frittered your money away on a bizarre suit style or as if you are wearing your underwear on your head.

As far as I can tell no one registers the slightest difference between SB and DB suits except that they aren't available rtw. Anyone who does notice and reacts that negatively might very well judge people for the wrong reasons across the board.

As a matter of fact, DB suits have a slightly positive connotation because usually only big shots and heavy hitters wear them. However, if you have repellant, exceptionally anal or bizarre personality, I could see how the DB might further separate you from the rest.


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#140 2011-10-02 06:49:21

formby
Member
From: Old Sarum
Posts: 5952

Re: When bespoke works right

Back to clothes:

More from Davide Taub @ Maurice Sedwell:

Taubs take on the now infamous Frankentweed. I suspect, given the shape that this is for a woman. Sadly it isn't finished but thought you catz may still be interested.

Front:

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/413_tweedpatchbastefrnt.jpg

Back:

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/413_tweedpatchbastebk.jpg

Piece parts:

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/413_tweedpatchcut.jpg

Interesting corduroy sports coat, complete with action back and half belt. Notice the peak lapels and the angle of the breast pocket:

Front:

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/413_shootinglapels.jpg

Back:

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/413_shootingpleat.jpg


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#141 2011-10-12 16:36:52

formby
Member
From: Old Sarum
Posts: 5952

Re: When bespoke works right

Nice Velvet Jacket from Cifonelli. Very Belle Epoque.

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/413_velvet_dinner_jacket.jpg

Courtesy of Hugo's Parisian Gentleman's blog.

http://parisiangentleman.co.uk/


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#142 2011-10-12 17:27:43

Bishop of Briggs
Member
Posts: 3184

Re: When bespoke works right

formby wrote:

Nice Velvet Jacket from Cifonelli. Very Belle Epoque.

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/ … jacket.jpg

Courtesy of Hugo's Parisian Gentleman's blog.

http://parisiangentleman.co.uk/

Sorry but it stinks. The button fastening shouts "wannabe" shill like that grasping clown Simon Crompton.

 

#143 2011-10-12 19:14:47

David Reeves
Member
From: New York
Posts: 178

Re: When bespoke works right

formby wrote:

Nice Velvet Jacket from Cifonelli. Very Belle Epoque.

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/ … jacket.jpg

Courtesy of Hugo's Parisian Gentleman's blog.

http://parisiangentleman.co.uk/

I like it but I wonder if that link would just be too distracting to the eye.


DAVID REEVES MODERN ENGLISH TAILOR
Check out My Blog:
http://davidreevesbespoke.wordpress.com/

 

#144 2011-10-13 11:16:57

formby
Member
From: Old Sarum
Posts: 5952

Re: When bespoke works right

Bishop of Briggs wrote:

formby wrote:

Nice Velvet Jacket from Cifonelli. Very Belle Epoque.

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/ … jacket.jpg

Courtesy of Hugo's Parisian Gentleman's blog.

http://parisiangentleman.co.uk/

Sorry but it stinks. The button fastening shouts "wannabe" shill like that grasping clown Simon Crompton.

No need to apologise bish. If you don't like it you don't like it.


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#145 2011-10-13 11:46:10

formby
Member
From: Old Sarum
Posts: 5952

Re: When bespoke works right

David Reeves wrote:

formby wrote:

Nice Velvet Jacket from Cifonelli. Very Belle Epoque.

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/ … jacket.jpg

Courtesy of Hugo's Parisian Gentleman's blog.

http://parisiangentleman.co.uk/

I like it but I wonder if that link would just be too distracting to the eye.

I didn't notice the link to be honest. On looking at it now, its not something I'd pick, but then again, it ain't my jacket.

Would changing that link really make that much of a difference though? Considering even without the link its already an eye catching jacket.

The reason I posted the jacket, besides that I have a liking for flamboyance and peacockery, even if I don't practice it, is that it shows what kind of garments tailors can actually and are willing to make. I wish more of this kind of stuff was posted.

What's does the typical customer order from your shop? Tell us about some of the more flamboyant things you've seen/made.


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#146 2011-10-15 08:18:39

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7908

Re: When bespoke works right

formby wrote:

Bishop of Briggs wrote:

formby wrote:

Nice Velvet Jacket from Cifonelli. Very Belle Epoque.

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/uploads/ … jacket.jpg

Courtesy of Hugo's Parisian Gentleman's blog.

http://parisiangentleman.co.uk/

Sorry but it stinks. The button fastening shouts "wannabe" shill like that grasping clown Simon Crompton.

No need to apologise bish. If you don't like it you don't like it.

He does tend to froth at the mouth over Duchamp-esque neck ties, thus he might almost like this jacket.


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#147 2011-10-15 10:08:03

formby
Member
From: Old Sarum
Posts: 5952

Re: When bespoke works right

Film Noir Buff wrote:

formby wrote:

Bishop of Briggs wrote:

Sorry but it stinks. The button fastening shouts "wannabe" shill like that grasping clown Simon Crompton.

No need to apologise bish. If you don't like it you don't like it.

He does tend to froth at the mouth over Duchamp-esque neck ties, thus he might almost like this jacket.

That's one of the pleasures of wearing Duchamp ties, you just know that you are going to get up someone's nose, which is its own reward. lol

What's your opinion on that jacket?


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#148 2011-10-15 11:07:05

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7908

Re: When bespoke works right

formby wrote:

Film Noir Buff wrote:

formby wrote:


No need to apologise bish. If you don't like it you don't like it.

He does tend to froth at the mouth over Duchamp-esque neck ties, thus he might almost like this jacket.

That's one of the pleasures of wearing Duchamp ties, you just know that you are going to get up someone's nose, which is its own reward. lol

What's your opinion on that jacket?

If I knew for certain that Duchamp ties piss certain people off like that, I would wear two at a time...or change them every hour.

I like the jacket but not the color.


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

#149 2011-10-15 11:25:28

formby
Member
From: Old Sarum
Posts: 5952

Re: When bespoke works right

Film Noir Buff wrote:

formby wrote:

Film Noir Buff wrote:

He does tend to froth at the mouth over Duchamp-esque neck ties, thus he might almost like this jacket.

That's one of the pleasures of wearing Duchamp ties, you just know that you are going to get up someone's nose, which is its own reward. lol

What's your opinion on that jacket?

If I knew for certain that Duchamp ties piss certain people off like that, I would wear two at a time...or change them every hour.

I like the jacket but not the color.

Ah, right thread this time...wink

I like a lot of Cifonelli's work. I think it will be appeal to younger men, which can only be a good thing for bespoke tailors. They are also another source for inspiration. Once you've covered the basics several times, you need to experiment a little. smile

sp?

Last edited by formby (2011-10-15 11:25:58)


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#150 2011-10-15 11:40:07

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 7908

Re: When bespoke works right

formby wrote:

Film Noir Buff wrote:

formby wrote:


That's one of the pleasures of wearing Duchamp ties, you just know that you are going to get up someone's nose, which is its own reward. lol

What's your opinion on that jacket?

If I knew for certain that Duchamp ties piss certain people off like that, I would wear two at a time...or change them every hour.

I like the jacket but not the color.

Ah, right thread this time...wink

I like a lot of Cifonelli's work. I think it will be appeal to younger men, which can only be a good thing for bespoke tailors. They are also another source for inspiration. Once you've covered the basics several times, you need to experiment a little. smile

sp?

I had a very long night and these two similar threads confuse me.

Speaking of which, this girl at the bar reached out and pulled my tie from above the knot way down my shirt telling me I would do better with her if I undid it. Didnt quite like the action but I did like her touching me. It wasn't a Duchamp tie, It was a rather artfully done woven light blue tie with chickens on it.


Style's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving.

My talented White Rabbit resides at www.mogucosplay.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mogu-Cosplay/62494764398

 

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