You have to remember how big Ellington was, and during the depression swing era, the size of crowds the dance venues could hold: anything from 2000-5000 people seven nights a week. He also had a marketing strategy from the late 20s onwards of serious music with dance interludes and that's why he was dressing like it was a classical performance.

Johnson by comparison, was playing in hick roadhouses and in a musical style, already considered old hat and out of date. The rest is myth.

I notice a similarly between the styles of Charlie Watts and Edward Sexton. Is Charlie one of his customers?

FROM
Stars on Savile Row, By Simon Brooke, January 30, 2010 12:34 am

“The rest of Savile Row was very unhappy when they saw these guys coming out of our shop with their wide lapels and kipper ties,” laughs Sexton. “Mick liked his trousers extremely tight and high-waisted.”

Sexton and Nutter went on to produce the suits for the Beatles’ Abbey Road album cover, and Sexton also mentored Sir Paul McCartney’s daughter, fashion designer Stella. Sexton’s clients now include musicians Pete Doherty and David Gray (prices start from £3,000 ($4,800) for a two-piece bespoke suit). He says, “You need to be 100 per cent professional and to not try and be their friend necessarily. But you do need to establish a rapport, as with any customer. We’ll just sit down and talk over a cup of tea without their agent or stylist. I see my job as interpreting their ideas.”

According to James Sleater, of up-and-coming London tailors Cad & the Dandy (who share shop space in Savile Row with Chittleborough & Morgan, suitmaker to Rolling Stones drummer Charlie Watts), many newer male pop stars are discovering the joys of quality British tailoring. “During the 1990s, and up to a few years ago, you found a lot of artists buying off-the-peg suits by Hugo Boss or Armani that were almost draped over them, but now they’re coming back to structured tailoring and well-fitted suits with shoulders and waists,” he says. “There’s a buzz again about English cloths and tailoring. It’s a reaction to the gangster rap bling.”