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#1 2012-05-02 12:22:06

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 7145

New Oxford Catalogue From Brooks Brothers

I see they've been hard at work copying J.Simons shirts:

http://www.brooksbrothers.com/catalogvi … rp_catalog


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#2 2012-05-02 13:05:31

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 95

Re: New Oxford Catalogue From Brooks Brothers

They are wrong that the BD was ever just for Polo - It was a general sports shirt also worn for Tennis & whatever else.  Tsk !

The shirt was a sportswear basic before John Brooks first clocked them as Polo wear. Had he first seen them at a Croquet game what would they be called today ?

 

#3 2012-05-02 13:34:45

Yuca
Member
Posts: 2985

Re: New Oxford Catalogue From Brooks Brothers

http://www.bathroomtilesuk.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Toilet-Roll.jpg


'some sort of banal legitimacy'

 

#4 2012-05-02 14:21:34

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 95

Re: New Oxford Catalogue From Brooks Brothers

Now there's a roll !

 

#5 2012-05-02 15:12:24

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: Staines-upon-Thames, Middlesex
Posts: 2173

Re: New Oxford Catalogue From Brooks Brothers

A bit further on are the 'Worn in Oxfords' washed out and with pre frayed cuffs and collars - ghastly.  What are Brooks thinking of?

 

#6 2012-05-03 00:20:28

Yuca
Member
Posts: 2985

Re: New Oxford Catalogue From Brooks Brothers

woofboxer wrote:

What are Brooks thinking of?

$$$$$$$$$$


'some sort of banal legitimacy'

 

#7 2012-05-03 00:23:01

Yuca
Member
Posts: 2985

Re: New Oxford Catalogue From Brooks Brothers

Not that any serious business has ever not thought about money, nor would I expect otherwise.  But crass commercialism is often not as financially profitable as people presume it will be; it's not that easy.


'some sort of banal legitimacy'

 

#8 2012-05-03 00:26:15

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 7145

Re: New Oxford Catalogue From Brooks Brothers

Instant frayed shirts are gonna' get ya'!


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#9 2012-05-03 01:24:32

Axelist
Talker of the talk, walker of the walk.
From: age
Posts: 780

Re: New Oxford Catalogue From Brooks Brothers

Just fli - um - clicked the catalogue. If the "Clifford" shirt had a proper collar, I would be tempted. I tend to see the positive - the Bros still make oxford shirts with collar widths and sleeve lengths to chose - and that in various fits. If you don't go MTM, I don't know any other company which still does that for that money. I did not witness the golden days and must see what I get now.

This is a good opportunity to say that I secretly left the non-iron path and bought a few must-iron OCBDs from BB. All those who advocated them on here were right. They are better. I sit down at your feet and will listen more.

Still don't iron, though.


Just to get a repp..

 

#10 2012-05-03 01:28:52

Axelist
Talker of the talk, walker of the walk.
From: age
Posts: 780

Re: New Oxford Catalogue From Brooks Brothers

4F Hepcat wrote:

Instant frayed shirts are gonna' get ya'!

This is one thing I really find decadent. Take completely new clothes and distress them on an industrial basis. And sell them with a surcharge, because all this distressing does cost money.

When did it start? With stonewashed jeans, perhaps?


Just to get a repp..

 

#11 2012-05-03 06:31:05

Lefty Banks
Member
Posts: 18

Re: New Oxford Catalogue From Brooks Brothers

The "shirt inspired by the archives" has some good points - no complaints about the JS/Gant/Press style flap pocket or back collar button but the 'clifford' collar and untucked look is a clear indication they've been inspired much more by J-Crew's successful rebranding as a quasi-Ivy, more aspirational Gap than really looking back at their heritage.

pre-frayed collars and cuffs on the other hand are simply the work of beelzebub.

 

#12 2012-05-03 08:35:38

The Thin Repp
Ivy Evangelist
Posts: 982

Re: New Oxford Catalogue From Brooks Brothers

Wait, what's new here? These are the same shirts they have been churning out for a few years now, with the smaller Clifford collar and the flap pocket. Obviously their standard blue, white, pink, yellow, ecru, etc offerings are the same as they have been for a couple of years. Where is the J.Simons copy? I dislike the Clifford collar but you can't doubt it's archival existence; it's in the old catalogs. Only the very early Brooks shirts had gussets, at least in my findings.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u852itLfnxA/T3pHea0jXJI/AAAAAAAAJKQ/ChDpjjIgZQ8/s1600/c_Candy_BB1962S:S.jpg
From Heavy Tweed Jacket Blog. See #566

"Our Clifford collar, with shorter points than our regular button-down collar and with no roll, making it excellent for business wear..."


http://www.etsy.com/shop/NewtonStreetVintage  Classic Vintage Ivy League Clothing on Etsy.

 

#13 2012-05-03 09:11:38

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4567

Re: New Oxford Catalogue From Brooks Brothers

Zach is basically right. Brooks Oxford shirts and some other weaves (except the non-iron, IMO) are fine...

I don't think they're copying from anything but their own historical designs.

We all would want them to get back to the unlined collars and the six button figuration, but that's a little bit picky, isn't it?

The pre-distressed option is bad taste, of course...


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#14 2012-05-03 09:32:00

Oo Bop Sh'bam
Ivy Iconoclast
From: within.
Posts: 4067

Re: New Oxford Catalogue From Brooks Brothers

I haven't since this on ivy-style yet, just saying.


''If I can't share my faith in Christ here, I'd just as soon not have to put up with people advocating drug use.''

 

#15 2012-05-03 10:19:51

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 95

Re: New Oxford Catalogue From Brooks Brothers

THE Cat was joking, Zach.

These new - and they are NEW - shirts by Brooks are interesting.... From a marketing point of view.

For me, the classic Brooks OCBD  is all about what it doesn't have. Others presentented the shirt with all the bells and whistles piled on. For Brooks the shirt originated as an undergarment. Which is what a shirt first was.

I want my Brooks with integrity. Old School.

The more Brooks add  the more they take away from their original and much loved product.

Only an opinion.

 

#16 2012-05-03 11:01:55

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 7145

Re: New Oxford Catalogue From Brooks Brothers

Jimbo wrote:

THE Cat was joking, Zach.

Indeed, it was in jest, but I was drawing attention to the fact that J.Simons had similar oxford shirts, albeit pullover style late last year.


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#17 2012-05-03 13:16:17

Yuca
Member
Posts: 2985

Re: New Oxford Catalogue From Brooks Brothers

Hard Bop Hank wrote:

We all would want them to get back to the unlined collars and the six button figuration

Exactly, the former being of even more importance than the latter.  (The number of buttons is, of course, irrelevant when worn with a tie.)

Hard Bop Hank wrote:

but that's a little bit picky, isn't it?

I disagree.  They managed to provide unlined collars for around 8 decades (someone else may know the exact number), and during that time Brooks shirts became world famous for being superb.  Now they're just trading on former glories/their name.  Maybe the bland crap they produce now makes them money - I've no idea - but it will certainly never be venerated. 

I appreciate that Brooks always moved with the times; for instance, as we all know, a Makers jacket from after the 60s features wider lapels and a lower button stance.  But the shirts remained constant to a great extent, particularly from the 50s to the late 80s.


'some sort of banal legitimacy'

 

#18 2012-05-03 14:47:50

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2378

Re: New Oxford Catalogue From Brooks Brothers

One of my favourite shirts is a club collar oxford by Ralph Lauren, which could well have been a copy of the shirt shown in that old Brooks Brothers catalog above. It came factory frayed. In the most subtle way I have to add. Looking at their weak new efforts, I think Brooks could have learned from Ralph's exquisite pre-distressing skills.

Full Circle.


38S | 15/32 | 32/28 | US 8.5D/UK 8E
_______________________________

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