It starts here officially under this name & it starts now.
Not any kind of 'Preppy' reinvention & not any sort of 'Heritage' pastiche either.
Not remotely 'Trad'.
It's far more to do with the living reality of the Ivy continuum.
And New Ivy, so far, belongs to London alone.
- I hope it will spread.
So here's the story:
I'm just off the phone to my Sunday Times mate and I've been riffing and enjoying, as ever, some good Ivy talk... Trashing all the museum exhibit boys & all the revisionists as usual, and in the process we hit on what was really going on with the real reality of Ivy & had been for quite a while now.
New Ivy.
Preppies, Trads & PITA boys can all stop reading at this point. None of what follows has anything to do with you.
New Ivy is classic Ivy for today. Nothing to do with 99% of the current Internet or media. Thom Browne & Mark McNairy don't feature. 'Preppy' is ignored as the sideline it is.
New Ivy is all about the reality of the clasic Ivy League style living today. It's all about detail & quality & classicism for today.
Brooks Brothers & J. Press don't feature. This is all about The Ivy League look now, not their latest money-making compromises.
Check this place:
http://www.paperblog.fr/4761802/john-si … a-londres/
And check out Japan....
But back to London -
http://www.retrosellers.com/features499.htm
TODAY's Ivy is alive & well. The best America now has is all Vintage.
So how new is New Ivy ?
Not remotely. It's just classic Ivy which doesn't pay any attention to all the crap since and including the Preppy fashion craze of '81 - And today to find American styled clothing like that is actually something nicely fresh & new.
More to follow -
JFM, Bristol, England, June 22nd 2012.
I agree entirely. That feels like a tentative manifesto. That's how I for one am trying to be. Smart , intelligent and relaxed in equal measure for its own sake. A hidden code that is inherently invisible.
The trick will be to make it a continuum not a scene.
In touch with Paul Simons today - Incredible shirts & trousers to follow.
All Ivy, no Jivy.
Which, today, is something really nice & new after 31 years of the rubbishy 'Preppy' influence.
MarkCoyle wrote:
I agree entirely. That feels like a tentative manifesto. That's how I for one am trying to be. Smart , intelligent and relaxed in equal measure for its own sake. A hidden code that is inherently invisible.
The trick will be to make it a continuum not a scene.
Amen.
Anti-scene is the way forward.
I'm not really sure I agree with that, to me New Ivy is the jazzing up of the colours and the patterns, but with the right details, I don't think it has a home cause I see it coming from everywhere on here and other places, whether new clothes or not, It's kind of like contemporary ideas to pattern and colour matching, with the classically styled clothes. The design has to be right. I'm still vintage really, JS has the nicest looking stuff, but the Keydge left me a bit unstirred, to be fair, everyone said they were looking a bit different to previous offerings. I know JS is still doing the odd piece of J, Press, do you know if this is vintage Jim? Have you seen a new J. Press jacket, I'm half interested in ordering a new one. Or wait for the JS blazer.
Last edited by One For Bop (2012-06-22 12:43:12)
Jimmy Frost Mellor wrote:
And New Ivy, so far, belongs to London alone.
JFM, Bristol, England, June 22nd 2012.
There's something incongruous here, guess what?
Forgive me, but I think this is a crock of shit. Ivy League is Ivy League. Some, as we know, are 'Beyond Ivy' - John Simons being the prime example. I sense, amongst the London faces, a subtle shift in emphasis. Of course, I simply observe from my Derbyshire eyrie. But the switch from, say, Alden to, say, a modest desert boot strikes me as significant. More stripping and paring. Mind you, weren't Strachan and Lally doing this at the Ivy Shop? 'The Simplicity Of Ivy'.
One For Bop wrote:
I'm not really sure I agree with that, to me New Ivy is the jazzing up of the colours and the patterns, but with the right details, I don't think it has a home cause I see it coming from everywhere on here and other places, whether new clothes or not, It's kind of like contemporary ideas to pattern and colour matching, with the classically styled clothes. The design has to be right.
The reality of the old Ivy is now new as nobody has really seen it for so long !
The style & design remain, the colours & patterns were always there. The vibrancy of the 1930s has never really been repeated, if you want colour & jazzed up designs. Conservatism in Ivy is a far more post WWII thing - 'Boom Years' before the Jivy stuff.
And even Jivy never touched the experiments of the 30's.
One For Bop wrote:
I'm not really sure I agree with that, to me New Ivy is the jazzing up of the colours and the patterns, but with the right details, I don't think it has a home cause I see it coming from everywhere on here and other places, whether new clothes or not, It's kind of like contemporary ideas to pattern and colour matching, with the classically styled clothes. The design has to be right. I'm still vintage really, JS has the nicest looking stuff, but the Keydge left me a bit unstirred, to be fair, everyone said they were looking a bit different to previous offerings. I know JS is still doing the odd piece of J, Press, do you know if this is vintage Jim? Have you seen a new J. Press jacket, I'm half interested in ordering a new one. Or wait for the JS blazer.
Ah - You edited.
I certainly sell vintage JP though JS. Saw my latest modern JP yesterday & was unimpressed.
Beautiful Edith wrote:
Forgive me, but I think this is a crock of shit. Ivy League is Ivy League. Some, as we know, are 'Beyond Ivy' - John Simons being the prime example. I sense, amongst the London faces, a subtle shift in emphasis. Of course, I simply observe from my Derbyshire eyrie. But the switch from, say, Alden to, say, a modest desert boot strikes me as significant. More stripping and paring. Mind you, weren't Strachan and Lally doing this at the Ivy Shop? 'The Simplicity Of Ivy'.
Exactly, it does not belong to London alone. All of Ivy's questions can be answered in the place where you live, you don't have to be in London to get it.
Being as I've established a Nottingham 'lad' (I wish) then London only is too restrictive of course, especially in this modern age of interconnected communication and travel.
I suppose I just want to wear Ivy inspired clothes without feeling like a museum piece. I might be in Nottingham, I might be in London and I might be elsewhere. I spend a lot of time in Lancashire for work and the Manchester people can be very sharp and informed dressers.
For those of us with humble origins Alden was something to aspire towards and feels an achievement when you get there (those Preston Venetian loafers are excellent). Stripping it back feels like a further refinement of understatement which I understand.
I just don't want anything that becomes temporary and goes 'out', this classic/traditional type of look goes beyond that and provides a stylish template for maturing through life.
4F Hepcat wrote:
Jimmy Frost Mellor wrote:
And New Ivy, so far, belongs to London alone.
JFM, Bristol, England, June 22nd 2012.There's something incongruous here, guess what?
Nothing to me, but then I'm me.
A London boy who's been working down here for the past three years.
^Yes, but you live in Bristol.
Are you saying that London is a state of mind?
MarkCoyle wrote:
Being as I've established a Nottingham 'lad' (I wish) then London only is too restrictive of course, especially in this modern age of interconnected communication and travel.
I suppose I just want to wear Ivy inspired clothes without feeling like a museum piece. I might be in Nottingham, I might be in London and I might be elsewhere. I spend a lot of time in Lancashire for work and the Manchester people can be very sharp and informed dressers.
For those of us with humble origins Alden was something to aspire towards and feels an achievement when you get there (those Preston Venetian loafers are excellent). Stripping it back feels like a further refinement of understatement which I understand.
I just don't want anything that becomes temporary and goes 'out', this classic/traditional type of look goes beyond that and provides a stylish template for maturing through life.
Of course. You don't want to be mutton dressed as lamb. Nor do you want to look like you're off for fish, chips, bread and butter and a pot of tea with the missus. John Simons, at seventy three, dresses as intelligently as he always has. Others will bear me out on this. Young Guy is also an excellent dresser. Zachary De Luca has the most inspiring views on this subject.
4F Hepcat wrote:
Beautiful Edith wrote:
Forgive me, but I think this is a crock of shit. Ivy League is Ivy League. Some, as we know, are 'Beyond Ivy' - John Simons being the prime example. I sense, amongst the London faces, a subtle shift in emphasis. Of course, I simply observe from my Derbyshire eyrie. But the switch from, say, Alden to, say, a modest desert boot strikes me as significant. More stripping and paring. Mind you, weren't Strachan and Lally doing this at the Ivy Shop? 'The Simplicity Of Ivy'.
Exactly, it does not belong to London alone. All of Ivy's questions can be answered in the place where you live, you don't have to be in London to get it.
New Ivy is London thing.
And was The Ivy Shop not a London shop in Richmond ?
I don't give a hoot about geographical claims. You can be cool wherever you are. But I do see my concept of NI belonging to a very specific world - One which spread out in all sorts of directions.
There can be New Ivy in Nottingham - Why not? But that vibe didn't really originate from there.
- But well done to the forum... I only launched my New Ivy minutes ago and now my latest thought is all about your neighbourhood ?
I hope it is - I want it to be ! ![]()
Jimmy Frost Mellor wrote:
You can be cool wherever you are.
Just checking.
4F Hepcat wrote:
^Yes, but you live in Bristol.
Are you saying that London is a state of mind?
I've only been here three years !
Great hospitals.
'New Ivy' - schtick - is doubtless wilfully based upon Chiltern Street. Okay as far as it goes: JS assured me there would be nothing of interest in NYC. Modern Brooks, Press, Paul Stuart are all wrecked, ruined - we know that. But 'New Ivy' suggests a trend, a movement, and I would want to resist that at all costs, in order to avoid falling into some kind of 80s graphic designer/G9, Levis and Weejuns-style crap. We all know there was an alternative, even then: John Gall and his crew, in 'Mississippi Burning' mode. Gone now.
Beautiful Edith wrote:
'New Ivy' - schtick - is doubtless wilfully based upon Chiltern Street. Okay as far as it goes: JS assured me there would be nothing of interest in NYC. Modern Brooks, Press, Paul Stuart are all wrecked, ruined - we know that. But 'New Ivy' suggests a trend, a movement, and I would want to resist that at all costs, in order to avoid falling into some kind of 80s graphic designer/G9, Levis and Weejuns-style crap. We all know there was an alternative, even then: John Gall and his crew, in 'Mississippi Burning' mode. Gone now.
Ahhhh - I now understand your resistance.
I'm not proposing that.
No 'scene' at all.
So what am I up to ? Just another of my 'back to basics' moves, but this time stressing how much more the basics of the past had when compared to today. Bring back all the forgotten stuff. It would blow the socks off many of the designers of today & is all entirely Ivy.
Show people the real old Ivy of the past & it would be brand new to them today.
4F Hepcat wrote:
Jimmy Frost Mellor wrote:
You can be cool wherever you are.
Just checking.
You could be cool anywhere !
1930's Ivy is especially fresh outside the US as it was pretty much totally unknown. No Austin's back then.
Even in the US it would be dynamic stuff, if you could trust them not to go all 'Fedora Lounge' over it. It's the style they forgot for 'Boom Years' Ivy which they were later to forget for 'Preppy'. And it's not RL either.
What could be newer just now than the classic, timeless American Ivy styles of 1932 ?
The bullshit name 'Ivy' hadn't even been coined then.
The 20s were still very Anglo in the US, the 40s were busy elsewhere, the 50s got very stylised, but the 30s were a very nice 'Ivy' epoch... Not, as I say, that that term even existed in '32.
But all the clothes were there.
I seem to remember seeing the words 'Ivy' and 'League' when reading Andrew Turnbull's biography of Scott Fitzgerald.
Cue the Dempsey thread.
Beautiful Edith wrote:
I seem to remember seeing the words 'Ivy' and 'League' when reading Andrew Turnbull's biography of Scott Fitzgerald.
I'm sure. Check my thing for Jason Jules & it tells you who made up the term & when in the 30s.
It's a fake.
Trads also write about FSF being a Trad.
Make up a name & then go back & fit the past to fit it !
Surely FSF was a Prepster anyway ?![]()
One For Bop wrote:
Cue the Dempsey thread.
Have to confess I used that in conversation - Thank you.