Horace wrote:

I don't know what the hell happened here:

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/1239 … 4ue.th.jpg

edit: circa 1970, by the way.

I've seen this moustard before.

Vaclav wrote:

Horace wrote:

I don't know what the hell happened here:

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/1239 … 4ue.th.jpg

edit: circa 1970, by the way.

I've seen this moustard before.

Yes, this moustache, it appears on a person we know.

Looks fine to me -
I use my reading glasses & a magnifying glass for the tricky bits.

M.

Get Smart wrote:

Those argyle trousers would be great....too bad BB doesn't have anything that cool anymore.

"We invited just a few close friends -
Sha-la-la-la-lee - Yeah - "

How was the gig last Tues, Sir?

Miles

Get Smart wrote:

Went well!  a big crowd, played for an hour, ended the nite with Teenage Kicks...a good time was had by all.  Even wore tasselled loafers that nite

Top Man!
First pint is on me -

Miles

PS Did you go with the Loakes?

Get Smart wrote:

Those argyle trousers would be great....too bad BB doesn't have anything that cool anymore.

I kinda like those trousers too.

Here's a Press jacket from '52.  Note that you can get either a three OR FOUR button front.  This ad (if it's at all telling of a style then extant -- and I think we always have to be careful with ads and how much they really say) counters some of the posts on other forums that the 4 button style was non-existant by this time.  (Now whether or not anyone was getting 4 button front jackets in the 50's is another story -- I don't know.  It's like the fact that Brooks was offering detachable collar shirts well into the 90's but how many people are or were wearing them).





Note that they distinguish between "power-loomed" and "hand woven" here.  This distinction will be worth returning to later if I ever write my Marxian-Traddist opus on fetish of hand-work of on-line clothing forums.


edit:  a propos nothing in particular:  note too that almost every Trad clothier who was doing travelling shows during the 50's stopped off in Tulsa.  I don't know if a disproportionate number of North Eastern college grads were from Tulsa or not.  (Not that it would matter as it seems that the TNSIL style had spread all over the country by then).  I read once in some banking journal that the demographic for millionaires in Tulsa is disproportionate to the rest of the country.  Or was at one time.


edit2:  Chris H was kind enough to point out (on AA&AAC) that the jacket pictured here has double-vents.  Good eye Chris H!  And Thanks!

Last edited by Horace (2006-05-25 05:07:45)

Here's a H. Freeman from '54 in the 3 to 2 roll.  The copy's worth reading.

Last edited by Horace (2006-05-25 04:32:16)

Horace wrote:

That Rosenberg suit that Collidge posted on AA&AAC is da shizzle.  Beautiful lapels and fabric and shoulder.  Maybe needs a bit of a taking in on the side panels (to my taste) but simply a matter of taste.  My Press suit (similar but not quite) is somewhat like that.    Almost same cut and color.  Coolidge appears lucky enough to have inherited that Stackpole and Moore stuff from his grandfather.  I never had been to A. Rosenberg.  They were a New Haven Clothier right?  Any other branches?  Camb or NYC?

Thank you sir. And, in accordance with your request, I here repost:





Stackpole and Moore was from my grandfather, but the pictured Rosenberg was a $6 thrift store find at the Middletown Goodwill!

Arthur Rosenberg, according to a discussion I had in Andyland with Tom22, was big player in the New Haven trad scene. It also had a store in New York, and Rosenthal-Maretz Co. (also in New Haven and New York) was a splitoff from it when employees left Rosenberg, which explains the reason why their label is nearly identical to Rosenberg's on the herringbone topcoat my Dad has passed on to me.

Tom22, a New Haven native, said:

"Rosenberg's was located at the corner of York and Elm St. in New Haven in the same building that Barries shoe store moved into and is
now occupied by a shoe store run by former Barrie employees.
I think Rosenberg's went out of business in the late 80s. I bought my first adult suit their in the very early 1970s. In the end it was going down hill. For most of its life it competed with JPress and several other noted New haven men's stores like White's, Gentree and even a men's store branch of Saks Fifth Avenue. The Yale Co-op
also had a quite decent men's shop dedicated to the college trade. McGeorge sweaters and Sero shirts were part of their stock in trade.
These days only Enson's and JPress survive from that earlier time"

Another poster noted, quoting from a 1960 Esquire article

"Chronologically, Lord of New York is a branch of a genealogy that goes all the way back to 1835 and Brooks Brothers' natural-shoulder—or, as it is precisely known, No. 1—sack suit. Around the turn of the century, Arthur Rosenberg, then the foremost tailor in New Haven, began to exploit this style among Yale undergraduates, and, not long afterwards, J. Press, also of New Haven, fell into line. Eventually, two Rosenberg employees, Sam Rosenthal and Moe Maretz, went out on their own as Rosenthal-Maretz; then Bill Fenn and Jack Feinstein left David T. Langrock to form Fenn-Feinstein (now associated with Frank Brothers). Somewhat later on, Mort Sill and (a year later) Jonas Arnold quit Press and opened a shop in Harvard Square, Cambridge, which they called Chipp. Then, with his partner's departure to form Sill (New York and Harvard Square), Jonas Arnold entered into an agreement whereby two former Press employees—Sid Winston and the late Lou Prager—were permitted to use Chipp as the name of the shop they were about to open in New York. Arnold, who closed his Cambridge store several years ago, is still a partner in the New York Chipp's."

All of this was from my thread on the suit in 10/2005

So clearly Rosenberg was New Haven's Trad Godfather of sorts

Last edited by Coolidge (2006-05-27 23:36:35)

Coolidge wrote:

Horace wrote:

Here's some Paul Stuart, c. '78:

http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/1017 … 5ei.th.jpg

This picture might give you a bit of an indication of the Paul Stuart reputation, as I recall it at least.  A bit more "dandified" in the FNB sense (If I take the liberty of such an assertion).  Still in the Ivy tradition, I suppose.  But a bit flash from those stodgy old (and young) coddgers over at Brooks.

This strikes me as what trad-but-flashy Trading Places character Louis Winthorpe would wear.

Yeah, I can see that.

There's another place, to add to your list, "The University Shop" in New Haven -- I think it was the Coop there.   A lot of 2 button stuff.

First up, from Press, c. Spring 1954




Second, from Hickey-Freeman, c. Spring 1954.

I like the cut of this suit, but don't think I'd classify it as Trad.  More as "American Business" suit, though I know the term is imprecise, like all the others.

Last edited by Horace (2006-06-25 01:54:06)

Horace wrote:

I think this would be a cool look for a jazz club -- in the same vein as the discussion that Miles had on another thread:

From Fall, 1957:

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/636/ … 5kj.th.jpg

I thought at first he was snapping his fingers as some sort of hipster-dork trad, but it's a cigarette in his hand.

I had the same impression at first sight.. Cool jacket indeed!

re the 1st:  a discussion with Grayson, elsewhere.  Brooks -- "own make" and the copy surrounding that.

c. 1957:



Is that a tennis collar that I see above?  If so, another blow to the Trad Orthodoxy. 


Chipp, c. 1957 -- note slight difference in gorge between Brooks and Chipp:



J. Press, c. 1957.