European Parliament president Antonio Tajani
"I just spent a couple of days in Naples, so I thought I might share a few random style-related observations. I hadn't been there in a long time and was only passing through with friends, so this wasn't a clothes-buying expedition, but still.
- Marinella: disappointment. I'd only been to their little shop in Milan and expected to find a treasure trove here, but they didn't have much. For instance, no shantung/raw silk ties. Yes, I did visit their upstairs shop. Basically, their style is stiff, bland and unsophisticated in a bad way. High quality but somewhat soulless ties. I wanted to buy a couple of printed foulard ties and just couldn't find one that really spoke to me. They're mostly tasteful (as in not tacky), but uninspired. Places like Cappelli or Drakes are on a different level, taste-wise (I'm only talking about silk selection -- but I could also cite construction of the RTW selection). Incidentally, I bought two soporific foulard ties in a place in Palermo called Dall'Oglio -- much better selection than Marinella."
"it just seems to me that the Marinella tie above is the sort of tie worn by every non-tacky Italian politician, businessman, professional or journalist; whereas the other ties wouldn't be picked by those sorts of people. Yet, as you say, they are fundamentally the same sort of tie (same level of formality, non-tackiness, quality, even same colour). What does that say? To me it says that the non-Marinella ties are more sophisticated. Or maybe I just like to think that my own ties are more sophisticated than the ones worn by so many people in Italy. Oh well, what do I know, I hardly ever wear non-knit ties."
https://www.styleforum.net/threads/quic … ui.313298/
Last edited by Beestonplace (2017-05-06 13:13:43)
The Neapolitan look is popular; most popular among the Pitti Uomo and iGent crowd. These are two demographics who want someone else to tell them what to wear. I suppose it's not a bad thing to be told how to dress well but coming from the perspective of someone who understands the building blocks of style quite well it is not impressive. That drab look is a signature of the continental crowd. It is also favored by the American iGent whiich is basically a species of men who arrived late on the clothing scene and want to pretend they have unimpeachable taste; having had no well dressed references for much of their lives. After all what is an iGent but someone who lives in fear that his clothing will be criticized.
Personally, I think the Neapolitan suit is a mistake for Americans. The ties are fine, as long as the knot they make is not too small.
That's an old post on styleforum but I am surprised that a member there wouldnt like Marinella. However, Im not surprised that he would love Drakes because they have become very iGent since they were bought. Looking on Drakes site, there are some interesting ties but most of them are fabric/weave gimmicks. I suppose tacky is in the eye of the beholder but when someone wears a tie because theyre worried someone else will think them tacky or not, well, that's about as pathetic as it gets.
I need to try one of these but I sort of like the ties from the 36oz selection on this site. I am not a big printed silk tie fan (Except for bow ties) but I am willing to experiment.
http://www.exquisitetrimmings.com/produ … -Ties.html
The N look is great if you are 1. very old and 2. Italian. Refer to the "Italian Industrialists and Intellectuals" blog, which shows real life Italians doing their thing. Take the same gear and put some smug-faced Libs (Crompty etc) in it and it looks like costume.
But taken out of cultural context, any look will go wrong. Imagine me, dressed in denim and suede chaps, with a six-shooter and Stetson. Or with gleaming white trainers, a heavy metal band T-Shirt, a neckbeard, Wal-Mart-sized 5l bottles of Coca Cola, no sex life and a Glock. But not in Texas, but on Lake Como.
Same goes for Chuck O'Reilly Jr. in Wisconsin strolling throught the mall with his soft shoulder odd jacket.
Last edited by Beestonplace (2017-05-07 00:50:25)
Cipriani is one of Italy's leading media guys. Almost looks like an 1980ies Xerox salesman:
- Floppy hair (antithesis of crew cut)
- suit a shade too light
- boring tie
But the outfit is "saved" by:
- white pocket square
- Nautilus 3700
An by the fact that the guy is someone, has a life, and does not only exist to post Instagram pics of himself from his bedroom ar his parents house
The Italian minister of justice
The president of the Italian industrial association.
Bonus points for Fay, I wore their stuff a lot in my youth.
Well not everyone can dress well. If everyone did dress well, then no one would be considered well dressed.