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#26 2016-10-17 01:22:29

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 14333

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#27 2016-10-17 03:28:27

Yuca
Member
Posts: 6924

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

I recently engaged in an ahem spirited debate on the topic of Astaire and how ivy-influenced his style was. All I'll say is that in the 50s (and probably beforehand) he was more often than not seen in Brooks BDs.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#28 2016-10-17 19:08:53

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 1481

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

I read an interesting article on it, an interview with him from the 50s. It's funny, because he actually isn't Ivy-influenced at all - he said himself he liked English cuts/tailoring/etc. much more, ticket pockets and so on. And his shoe choices are rarely Ivy... And yet he exemplifies that rumpled, casual grace Ivy look in many ways, and does wear OCBDs...

Here's the article: http://www.gq.com/story/fred-astaire-gq … le-fashion


Bertie: "What do ties matter, Jeeves, at a time like this?"
Jeeves: "There is no time, sir, at which ties do not matter."

 

#29 2016-10-18 02:03:03

Yuca
Member
Posts: 6924

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

As I recall it was Exhibit A in the debate I mentioned: http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopi … 72&p=2


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#30 2016-10-19 18:11:50

captainpreppy
Member
Posts: 1514

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

Anybody have any idea when ties died as campus wear? When I entered UCLA in 1959, nobody, but nobody was wearing coat and tie, except for faculty, which would include graduate teaching assistants.

When I was up at Oxford (1963-5), it was still customary for undergraduates to go about in coat and tie.

 

#31 2016-10-21 13:56:24

Yuca
Member
Posts: 6924

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

No idea I'm afraid, however I'd be very interested to know the following:

What was the typical attire in UCLA in 59?

What about campus style in Oxford 63 to 65? And how did UK students and other residents respond to your sartorial choices? (Or didn't they notice?)

Please feel free to go into as much detail as you like. And if you have any clothes left from your student days I'd be happy to take them off your hands.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#32 2016-10-21 14:46:31

Tommy
Member
Posts: 1589

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

I think I and everyone else would be happy to hear your reminisces on this Capn' Preppy, might even warrant it's own thread? Ideally with yearbook pictures or snaps you don't mind sharing if that's not too much to ask?

 

#33 2017-08-04 14:11:25

Armchaired
Ivy I.V.
From: Old England
Posts: 7489

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

http://i.imgur.com/xXbRLzO.jpg


“My therapist told me that I over-analyze everything. I explained to him that he only thinks this because of his unhappy relationship with his mother.”

 

#34 2017-08-04 14:28:06

Armchaired
Ivy I.V.
From: Old England
Posts: 7489

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

http://i.imgur.com/LWzx3ZZ.jpg


“My therapist told me that I over-analyze everything. I explained to him that he only thinks this because of his unhappy relationship with his mother.”

 

#35 2017-10-30 12:12:38

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 1481

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

John Gilbert

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dm-tpC6BBRA/WfThvsKmUrI/AAAAAAAANoo/32rAJQCLYH0Xu_sVvcYjj8EOk1q8T6B5QCLcBGAs/s1600/greta-garbo-and-john-gilbert-promoting-their-film-queen-christina-in-1933-2.jpg


Bertie: "What do ties matter, Jeeves, at a time like this?"
Jeeves: "There is no time, sir, at which ties do not matter."

 

#36 2017-11-01 10:09:42

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 1481

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

https://parisiangentleman.fr/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Astaire-backgammon.png


Bertie: "What do ties matter, Jeeves, at a time like this?"
Jeeves: "There is no time, sir, at which ties do not matter."

 

#37 2017-11-01 10:16:58

Yuca
Member
Posts: 6924

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

Superb (including the watch).

Most women I see nowadays wear watches at least twice the size of the above. I don't think they do them any favours.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#38 2017-11-01 11:23:55

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 1481

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

Yuca wrote:

Superb (including the watch).

Most women I see nowadays wear watches at least twice the size of the above. I don't think they do them any favours.

The safety pin as a tie clip is killer, too.

Re: watches:

Gary Cooper wore a Cartier Tank, and a little research shows that a bunch of guys did as well, from the 1920s into the 1960s - Warren Beatty, Frank Sinatra...

https://i.pinimg.com/736x/5b/47/3f/5b473feb52f4e572f0d51f593af4155a--old-hollywood-classic-hollywood.jpg

Astaire didn't, that I can tell, but he did give at least one engraved Tank as a gift to a male friend, in 1929. (He also gave solid gold engraved ID bracelets to Oscar Peterson, Barney Kessel, Ray Brown and Alvin Stoller, who accompanied him on The Astaire Story in 1952. Fred Astaire was a classy guy).

I really agree about watches. They're just getting more and more gigantic - I see tons of absolutely huge watches on guys, and I think they can ruin an otherwise good look, like the elf-length, square-toe shoes that all guys wear these days.

I'm a big fan of the classy bling guys had in the 1930s and 1940s. ID bracelets, collar pins and tie clips (nice ones, not the Tie Bar bullshit you see now), signet rings (something I will always wish I could and never will be able to pull off), beautiful cufflinks, and tasteful watches.

I actually blame guys like Paul Newman and Steve McQueen (especially Steve McQueen, who is so often cited as an Ivy God when he actually didn't dress Ivy very often, and not at all after a certain period of his career) for the death of this kind of small watch, tasteful jewelry for men look. They raced cars and motorcycles and were Men, and their clothes were Man Clothes. Entering the 1960s and 1970s, are you going to wear Motorcycle Steve's watch, or Fred Astaire's? The beginning of style as lifestyle aspiration rather than taste aspiration - I'd rather wear the badass watch because I wish I was badass, instead of the classy watch because I wish I was classy. I know I'll never be badass, so I'll take the Cartier wink

http://www.cosmomovieawards.com/actors/images/humphreybogart.jpg


Bertie: "What do ties matter, Jeeves, at a time like this?"
Jeeves: "There is no time, sir, at which ties do not matter."

 

#39 2017-11-01 11:51:06

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3268

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

My mum wanted to give me her tank watch... (not Cartier. Chopard Geneve, but looks identical to the original Cartier Tank). They are really small, smaller than my 34mm dress watches from the 50s or 60s. But all in all it looks like the ones pictured above... which is a good look... now I am comfused. I like bigger watches, too - a diver has to be big (not bigger than 38-40mm though)... but that dressy watch look is a good one...

Last edited by Leer R. (2017-11-01 11:54:29)


http://maennergarderobe.blogspot.co.at

BB Makers shirts: 15.5/33, BB #1, 2 or 4 suits: 38R

 

#40 2017-11-01 15:02:50

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 11087

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

Berkeley_Breathes wrote:

Yuca wrote:

Superb (including the watch).

Most women I see nowadays wear watches at least twice the size of the above. I don't think they do them any favours.

The safety pin as a tie clip is killer, too.

Re: watches:

Gary Cooper wore a Cartier Tank, and a little research shows that a bunch of guys did as well, from the 1920s into the 1960s - Warren Beatty, Frank Sinatra...

https://i.pinimg.com/736x/5b/47/3f/5b47 … lywood.jpg

Astaire didn't, that I can tell, but he did give at least one engraved Tank as a gift to a male friend, in 1929. (He also gave solid gold engraved ID bracelets to Oscar Peterson, Barney Kessel, Ray Brown and Alvin Stoller, who accompanied him on The Astaire Story in 1952. Fred Astaire was a classy guy).

I really agree about watches. They're just getting more and more gigantic - I see tons of absolutely huge watches on guys, and I think they can ruin an otherwise good look, like the elf-length, square-toe shoes that all guys wear these days.

I'm a big fan of the classy bling guys had in the 1930s and 1940s. ID bracelets, collar pins and tie clips (nice ones, not the Tie Bar bullshit you see now), signet rings (something I will always wish I could and never will be able to pull off), beautiful cufflinks, and tasteful watches.

I actually blame guys like Paul Newman and Steve McQueen (especially Steve McQueen, who is so often cited as an Ivy God when he actually didn't dress Ivy very often, and not at all after a certain period of his career) for the death of this kind of small watch, tasteful jewelry for men look. They raced cars and motorcycles and were Men, and their clothes were Man Clothes. Entering the 1960s and 1970s, are you going to wear Motorcycle Steve's watch, or Fred Astaire's? The beginning of style as lifestyle aspiration rather than taste aspiration - I'd rather wear the badass watch because I wish I was badass, instead of the classy watch because I wish I was classy. I know I'll never be badass, so I'll take the Cartier wink

http://www.cosmomovieawards.com/actors/ … bogart.jpg

classy badass ftw


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#41 2017-11-01 15:10:24

Yuca
Member
Posts: 6924

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

The whole thread is pure class. 40s ivy - I love it.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#42 2017-11-01 16:32:07

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 1481

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

Yuca wrote:

The whole thread is pure class. 40s ivy - I love it.

I agree... A thread well-worth resurrecting


Bertie: "What do ties matter, Jeeves, at a time like this?"
Jeeves: "There is no time, sir, at which ties do not matter."

 

#43 2017-11-02 12:28:33

Armchaired
Ivy I.V.
From: Old England
Posts: 7489

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

https://i.imgur.com/mMc6TKX.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qqk7HgS.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/kH0HbZz.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/3BGtnxV.jpg


“My therapist told me that I over-analyze everything. I explained to him that he only thinks this because of his unhappy relationship with his mother.”

 

#44 2017-11-02 12:31:33

Armchaired
Ivy I.V.
From: Old England
Posts: 7489

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

https://i.imgur.com/Uxad4c4.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZkTAvbe.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HXtIfj3.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jDghtAC.jpg


“My therapist told me that I over-analyze everything. I explained to him that he only thinks this because of his unhappy relationship with his mother.”

 

#45 2017-11-02 12:39:15

Yuca
Member
Posts: 6924

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

Some superb stuff there.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#46 2017-11-02 12:58:41

Armchaired
Ivy I.V.
From: Old England
Posts: 7489

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

https://i.imgur.com/9ose5ka.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/OPfj1f9.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/c4LiKXj.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Atg69yQ.jpg


“My therapist told me that I over-analyze everything. I explained to him that he only thinks this because of his unhappy relationship with his mother.”

 

#47 2017-11-02 13:39:59

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 1481

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

YES. This is exactly what I was hoping would happen when I resurrected this thread... Many thanks AC, "Get into your uniform!" and the country clothes Brooks ad are both great, I'd wear a lot of this stuff in a heartbeat... Keep 'em coming...


Bertie: "What do ties matter, Jeeves, at a time like this?"
Jeeves: "There is no time, sir, at which ties do not matter."

 

#48 2017-11-02 13:41:01

Tommy
Member
Posts: 1589

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

Agreed, I've got much more into this sort of era.

I find Olympic Rower and 1936 Gold medallist Joe Rantz's look very interesting, even more so than the rest of his team. Also they went to the non Ivy League, University of Washington. He's the main subject in 'The Boys in the Boat' biography of the team and also the PBS 'The Boys of 36' documentary.


http://www.gritfire.com/images/Rantz_passport_photo_only_2.jpg

https://i.pinimg.com/736x/6d/78/57/6d78579030c7ec2f99e28567896ea024--berlin-olympics-university-of-washington.jpg

http://www-tc.pbs.org/wgbh/americanexperience/media/filer_public_thumbnails/filer_public/91/c8/91c8eeff-bf19-412a-840a-2145775e3232/boys36_who_1969_m_corbis_42-81620846_1936_crop.jpg__600x477_q85_crop_subsampling-2_upscale.jpg

https://kcts9.org/sites/default/files/images/story/boys-boat-640x360.jpg

http://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/columbiatribune.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/c/c6/cc67fa07-1a0e-5889-94d0-e900a409513e/542748fc45056.image.jpg?resize=800%2C529
Probably post war here

http://www.huskycrew.com/193612.jpg
Not in this one but still cool

Last edited by Tommy (2017-11-02 15:04:30)

 

#49 2017-11-02 15:03:32

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 11087

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

did not completely realize that tube socks were around in the 1930s:

https://i.pinimg.com/736x/6d/78/57/6d78579030c7ec2f99e28567896ea024--berlin-olympics-university-of-washington.jpg


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#50 2017-11-02 15:12:02

Tommy
Member
Posts: 1589

Re: Ivy the early years 30s & 40s

Few interesting pieces of sportswear in the above and maybe most strikingly his flat top.

 

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