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#1 2017-08-07 05:00:20

kylepw
Member
Posts: 17

Charm in "oversized" shirts

Sartorial rules often dictate that the shoulder width of shirts should hit around where your shoulder begins to dip, no more or less. But I'm beginning to find a certain charm in the shoulder width of shirts that dip past the natural shoulder, creating a nonchalant, slouchy effect that seems very Ivy to me. Here are some examples below. How do you like your shirt to fit?

http://i.imgur.com/AaT8YPf.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/fBDs4Fw.png
http://i.imgur.com/gdKr3bG.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/LtchKCB.jpg

 

#2 2017-08-08 03:22:58

Pennies_and_Oxfords
Member
From: Singapore, Land of Heatwaves
Posts: 97

Re: Charm in "oversized" shirts

Saw a picture of Michael Caine in Alfie recently, and I think I saw his shoulder width being 'dropped' slightly, with quite a bit of billow. It seemed pretty cool. I would consider it.


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#3 2017-08-08 03:47:27

HOOT
Member
Posts: 69

Re: Charm in "oversized" shirts

I've actually noticed the opposite. BB shirts from the 50's, 60's and 70's have a narrower shoulder to shoulder measurement than current ones.

 

#4 2017-08-08 04:13:28

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 497

Re: Charm in "oversized" shirts

I have a few shirts that have this 'feature' and had been concerned slightly about it, I will now stop worrying and learn to love the shoulder drop.

 

#5 2017-08-08 04:37:04

Babbling Brooks
Member
Posts: 73

Re: Charm in "oversized" shirts

HOOT wrote:

I've actually noticed the opposite. BB shirts from the 50's, 60's and 70's have a narrower shoulder to shoulder measurement than current ones.

That is very true... a 6 button appears to be narrower than the 7 by quite a bit

 

#6 2017-08-08 04:44:59

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: Staines-upon-Thames, Middlesex
Posts: 5943

Re: Charm in "oversized" shirts

There are some drawings on the Brooks Brothers website illustrating their various shirt fittings plus measurement charts that may be of interest:

http://www.brooksbrothers.com/dressshir … lt,pg.html

The old Makers shirts that are so popular with members on here would generally correlate to the present day 'Traditional', but some are definitely cut more generously than others and I own both kinds. I like plenty of room in a shirt and a bit of billow when tucked in but I do like them to fit across the shoulders and I'm not keen for the period look in the photos. I get fed up with tucking in all those folds of material and voluminous sleeves that crease up when you put a jacket on.

When buying new Brooks shirts, which I do for work, I generally go for the 'Madison' which is a nice balance between super baggy and slimfit but still generous enough to be comfortable.


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#7 2017-08-08 07:33:45

kylepw
Member
Posts: 17

Re: Charm in "oversized" shirts

HOOT wrote:

I've actually noticed the opposite. BB shirts from the 50's, 60's and 70's have a narrower shoulder to shoulder measurement than current ones.

I also recall seeing a few pictures of midcentury OCBDs where the yoke seemed pretty narrow despite the shirt still appearing billowy. Despite the narrow shoulders, perhaps the arm hole width/chest width of 50s/60s Makers were just as full as today's Traditional Fit?

 

#8 2017-08-08 10:15:43

HOOT
Member
Posts: 69

Re: Charm in "oversized" shirts

I believe the narrower yoke is offset by a larger arm hole opening. In terms of chest width the 6 button shirts are actually much closer to the current Madison fit. The shirts must have gotten larger in the late 80s and through the 90s when they switched to the 7 button front.

Here's a couple examples, its Bradley's Etsy shop so I'm sure the measurements can be trusted.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/463427793/ … _active_13
https://www.etsy.com/listing/285738655/ … e_active_7

 

#9 2017-08-09 05:35:27

Thee Captain
Member
Posts: 6543

Re: Charm in "oversized" shirts

Still not seeing ANYTHING image wise via IMGUR on here...yada yada yada..


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#10 2017-08-09 07:49:47

Yuca
Member
Posts: 6849

Re: Charm in "oversized" shirts

Quite recently (this century) I measured a load of shirts: pit to pit and waist to waist. (I never thought to do yokes.) Shirts were Makers 6 and 7 buttons and Mercers, but I think the oldest Brooks only dated back to the 70s. It was quite amazing to see the lack of variety in the measurements. I don't think there was more than 1/2" discrepancy between any.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#11 2017-08-09 08:31:18

kylepw
Member
Posts: 17

Re: Charm in "oversized" shirts

Yuca wrote:

Quite recently (this century) I measured a load of shirts: pit to pit and waist to waist. (I never thought to do yokes.) Shirts were Makers 6 and 7 buttons and Mercers, but I think the oldest Brooks only dated back to the 70s. It was quite amazing to see the lack of variety in the measurements. I don't think there was more than 1/2" discrepancy between any.

Wow, that is impressive. I would've expected more variation due to how they were washed/dried.

Maybe someone with access to old shirts could post yoke measurements here? Especially 50s/60s Brooks. Like Thee Captain said, even some fit pics would be cool, too.

 

#12 2017-08-09 08:35:22

Yuca
Member
Posts: 6849

Re: Charm in "oversized" shirts

I find any shrinkage seems to be on the sleeves (which do vary a lot on old shirts). I have once or twice had on old Makers that had shrunk a lot, for which reason I couldn't wear it so I got rid.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#13 2017-08-09 09:04:57

HOOT
Member
Posts: 69

Re: Charm in "oversized" shirts

Yuca wrote:

Quite recently (this century) I measured a load of shirts: pit to pit and waist to waist. (I never thought to do yokes.) Shirts were Makers 6 and 7 buttons and Mercers, but I think the oldest Brooks only dated back to the 70s. It was quite amazing to see the lack of variety in the measurements. I don't think there was more than 1/2" discrepancy between any.

Do you happen to have the measurements saved anywhere? From what I've seen the current Madison fit is the period correct one not the Traditional.

It would also be interesting to know when Brooks first started offering them in slim fit.

kylepw wrote:

Wow, that is impressive. I would've expected more variation due to how they were washed/dried.

Maybe someone with access to old shirts could post yoke measurements here? Especially 50s/60s Brooks. Like Thee Captain said, even some fit pics would be cool, too.

Yuca wrote:

I find any shrinkage seems to be on the sleeves (which do vary a lot on old shirts). I have once or twice had on old Makers that had shrunk a lot, for which reason I couldn't wear it so I got rid.

That's been my experience as well, I find most shrinkge occurs vertically rather than horizontally.

 

#14 2017-08-09 10:33:07

Yuca
Member
Posts: 6849

Re: Charm in "oversized" shirts

That's reason I always dry flat.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#15 2017-08-12 08:19:08

Chipper
Member
From: Charm City
Posts: 1527

Re: Charm in "oversized" shirts

Those photos show more or less how I wear mine. I don't like the seam too close to the exact shoulder line, or it begins to feel confining.


"Duvel copied my homework." ~ Unknown
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#16 2017-08-12 09:18:07

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 10593

Re: Charm in "oversized" shirts

/\  me too, I like everything, including shirts, to be slightly on the roomy side .... the baggy offensive, if you will ........... 

being constrained by clothing sets me off


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#17 2017-08-12 23:23:48

kylepw
Member
Posts: 17

Re: Charm in "oversized" shirts

Same here. I'm on the skinny side and so was wearing form-fitting clothes for a while, but not until I switched to "roomy" brands like Mercers did I realize just how constricting, uncomfortable the stuff was. Never going back.

 

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