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#1 2018-02-08 02:21:35

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 527

Forgive me father...

For I have sinned.....

I bought the RL Morgan Loden twill sport jacket which has twin vents and is darted (subtly). It is natural shoulder, 3/2 roll, unstructured, patch and flap pockets though and is a cracking jacket made in Italy.  Hard to find green Loden wool jackets.

Also got two other RL recently in their sale.  They are surprisingly good (especially at 50%).

I felt the need to confess, I feel better now.

 

#2 2018-02-08 04:16:48

Babbling Brooks
Member
Posts: 399

Re: Forgive me father...

Is it this one?

https://cdnb.lystit.com/photos/ralphlau … -Coat.jpeg

The colours great, but I personally think its a bit over stylised, saying that, who cares what I think, if you like it crack on. All anyone really asks is a natural shoulder isnt it? I mean theres your line in the sand

Last edited by Babbling Brooks (2018-02-08 04:17:21)


Dirty bucks I want you, dirty bucks I need you, woh-oh.

 

#3 2018-02-08 06:44:06

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 527

Re: Forgive me father...

It is that one but looks less arch on me than that model. 

Iit is a crossover with a country jacket I guess and certainly stood out amongst endless blue and grey suits at expo in Essen, Germany today.

The fabric is stunning - light green with brown and blue fleck interwoven.  When worn it is a fairly straightforward jacket compared to the stylised picture.

In the picture online the 3/2 isn't visible, the model is too tall making the jacket look short and nipped when it isn't at all.  These pics often do nothing to sell the clothes.

Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2018-02-08 08:06:56)

 

#4 2018-02-08 09:20:31

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 2032

Re: Forgive me father...

Whew, for a second I thought we were going to have another Darted Sack Incident...

I think it's interesting that the "rules" of Ivy have been so codified that this is thought of as a say-your-Hail-Marys offense. If you look in the old yearbooks from the heyday, you see tons of twin vents, especially later in the 1960s, worn with highwaters, penny loafers, OCBDs and repp ties... They were part of the college look for sure, and as ol' Tristan Tenfold never tires of saying, college is the be all end all for Ivy, haha... So twin vents are canon, as the kids say these days.

Darts are also canon. I post this pic far too often:

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/f0/2d/a4/f02da476d4794fffe793e11a2f16a1df.jpg

If William F. Buckley did it, then it's probably acceptable even to the most hidebound Ivyist... I agree with Babbling, natural shoulder is more important than any other detail, great as the other details are... The jacket looks like a beautiful color, wear it with pride...

Just never dart an un-darted sack.
https://i2.wp.com/www.thomaswictor.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/James_Dickey.jpg


"I happen to believe that the 1954 decision was right. But my belief does not matter; it is now the law. Some of you may believe the decision was wrong. That does not matter - it is the law. And we both respect the law." - RFK

 

#5 2018-02-08 10:28:39

mhalat
Member
Posts: 119

Re: Forgive me father...

never living it down, am wholly unrepentant, won't do it again

 

#6 2018-02-08 10:41:19

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 2032

Re: Forgive me father...

mhalat wrote:

never living it down, am wholly unrepentant, won't do it again

https://s26.postimg.org/x3bi3uzwp/Screen_Shot_2018-02-06_at_6.43.21_PM.png


"I happen to believe that the 1954 decision was right. But my belief does not matter; it is now the law. Some of you may believe the decision was wrong. That does not matter - it is the law. And we both respect the law." - RFK

 

#7 2018-02-08 12:59:25

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 527

Re: Forgive me father...

Where are elbow patches in the orthodoxy?  I am happy either way on the right jacket.

 

#8 2018-02-08 14:50:07

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 2032

Re: Forgive me father...

They're out there... stan probably knows best about the rightness or "wrongness" of elbow patches... On a corduroy jacket or an old tweed they're hard to beat, though...


"I happen to believe that the 1954 decision was right. But my belief does not matter; it is now the law. Some of you may believe the decision was wrong. That does not matter - it is the law. And we both respect the law." - RFK

 

#9 2018-02-08 15:18:11

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 11355

Re: Forgive me father...

/\  I think elbow patches are cool when they're used to repair sport coats, if that's done anymore, it certainly was a service that alterations tailors and better dry cleaners used to offer in the heyday of Ivy, but I haven't had a sport coat with patches on the elbows since I was a kid ....

However, I used to have a made-in-England gray marled ragg wool sweater with gray suede elbow patches, it was from Lands End, circa '80-'81, really great outdoors sweater that I came to prefer to my Bean navy/white Norwegian, I dug the patches on the elbows of that sweater .......


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#10 2018-02-08 21:56:41

stanshall
Moderator
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 11355

Re: Forgive me father...

Babbling Brooks wrote:

... All anyone really asks is a natural shoulder isnt it? I mean theres your line in the sand

definitely, the natural shoulder and the flat front trousers are the keys to that 1952-66 look, but during that period there were plenty of darts and double vents and two-button suits and point collars along with the 3/2 center vent sacks and oxford buttondowns, RFK wore them, they were out there, we see them in the movies and ads and in the thrift stores and vintage shops, if it had flat trousers with no pleats and a natural enough shoulder, and it was around from the late '40s/early '50s into '68, it was either Ivy or Jivy, both hip and potentially great, either way, whereas those suits with built-up shoulders in the older boardroom style were neither Ivy nor Jivy, they were the anti-Ivy, square as their shoulders.


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#11 2018-02-08 22:17:08

ste
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 84

Re: Forgive me father...

If there's no wear on the jacket elbow patches are 'fakey'.


[ http://putlockers.gs/watch/rdmpLpGX-und … -1996.html at 15:49 for the reference. ]

 

#12 2018-02-08 23:11:25

Berkeley_Breathes
Moderator
From: The Great White North
Posts: 2032

Re: Forgive me father...

ste wrote:

If there's no wear on the jacket elbow patches are 'fakey'.


[ http://putlockers.gs/watch/rdmpLpGX-und … -1996.html at 15:49 for the reference. ]

The fakeyness and the facade go togedder.


"I happen to believe that the 1954 decision was right. But my belief does not matter; it is now the law. Some of you may believe the decision was wrong. That does not matter - it is the law. And we both respect the law." - RFK

 

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