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#101 2008-07-25 12:21:21

Fred
Member
Posts: 321

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

Thanks for the links Jesmond, both look great especially the Original Playboys.

 

#102 2008-07-25 12:52:16

Chris_H
Ivy Original
Posts: 1459

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

Here's a couple of links to the Tricker Mudguards that Fred mentioned above.

http://click.affiliate.ameba.jp/affilia … Id=3395282

http://store.shopping.yahoo.co.jp/septis/1-0115.html

A pity they don't supply these in the UK.

 

#103 2008-07-26 11:23:59

jesmond
Ivy Genius
From: Wry Lane
Posts: 1202

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

Fred wrote:

Thanks for the links Jesmond, both look great especially the Original Playboys.

And Thank YOU, Sir for the heads up about the Trickers `Mud Guard`s.`


I`m wondering now if the Trickers `Mud Guard` line is a classic (though now largely obscure) Trickers line ,that might have been offered by the Trickers shoe company  through the 50`s and 60`s.

I`ve learnt that the `Playboy` label chukka footwear would appear to have been THE make of this  particular thick crepe soled, suede chukka footwear, retailed in the US during the sixties (and quite possibly the late 50`s?).(I`ve been informed online by a New York afficionado of these shoes that `Playboy`s`  were on sale in New York, in the 60`s.This man rued the fact that he could no longer purchase those original  Playboys he`d known back in the day, replete with their `Playboy -Made in England` -label).

These OP chukka`s are indeed what they say, the `ORIGINAL Playboy`s`.They were and still are made by George Cox, of Northampton, makers of the original thick crepe soled `brothel creeper` style shoes, back in 1949.I`ve seen an  online ,archive  b&w pic of an MIT student in the late 50`s or early 60`s wearing just this style of very thick crepe soled  , suede shoes.Back in the day i`m sure these plain (but for the very thick crepe sole, of course!) gibson or derby style suede shoes and boots would have appeared very suave.I`m sure they would have been seen in a completely different light to how we see and pereceive all those thick brothel style creeper shoes today.

I wonder if this ivy league style of shoe and boot was more ubiquitous  in the North East of USA...?



The term `Playboy` style chukka has now come to be generic.

When `GBX` refer to their style of boot as a `Playboy`, it is this that we must bear in mind.


`Playboy` label footwear dates back to 1936, in England.Playboy is now a Scandinavian  based company ,(something to do with litigation disputes about the use of the playboy name ,with the Playboy bunny organisation?).The `Playboy` label was originally owned by George Cox, of Northampton. George Cox do not own the `ORIGINAL PLAYBOY` name.


George Cox however continue to manufacture their original line of Playboy thick crepe soled suede shoes (the boots are no longer currently made) for the current owners of the `ORIGINAL Playboy` name.

These `Original Playboy`shoes are made in Spain at present.


`Original Playboy`s` are Goodyear welted.The George Cox label, thick crepe soled, chuka shoes and boots ARE NOT Goodyear welted.There also appear to be slight differences between the two in the styling, and in the types or grade of qualities of the suede used.

I bought my first couple of pairs of the thick crepe soled ,suede chukka shoes from J.Simons in London.It was around four or five years ago , i think. It was at a time when J.Simons` stock of the `Original Playboy` boots was diminishing.Sadly, for me,  it was too late for me to purchase a pair of the Original Playboy boots in my own size.

It was through John at J.Simons that i first learned of the history of Playboy style footwear.Steve McQueen wore this style of shoes and boots, throughout the sixties.John at J.Simons pointed this fact out to me and  he also showed me a late 50`s ( if i recall correctly) b&W pic of a young Marlon Brando, sitting on a bench in Paris, wearing just this style of shoe.

J.Simons may still have some of those `Original Playboy`s. J.Simons` Sanders chukka IS Goodyear welted.



jez

 

#104 2008-07-26 11:26:33

jesmond
Ivy Genius
From: Wry Lane
Posts: 1202

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

Chris_H wrote:

Here's a couple of links to the Tricker Mudguards that Fred mentioned above.

http://click.affiliate.ameba.jp/affilia … Id=3395282

http://store.shopping.yahoo.co.jp/septis/1-0115.html

A pity they don't supply these in the UK.

THANK YOU, Chris!

WOW! A fantastic find.VERY McQueen.VERY Bullitt...!


Cheers,

J.

 

#105 2008-07-26 11:28:07

jesmond
Ivy Genius
From: Wry Lane
Posts: 1202

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

 

#106 2008-07-26 16:17:30

Fred
Member
Posts: 321

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

Thanks for the info, Jesmond.  The Trickers shoes look great - I wonder what size they go up to....probably not mine (UK 9.5 or 10).

 

#107 2008-07-27 07:34:50

Fred
Member
Posts: 321

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

Apparently there is also an early Hip hop connection with these Chukkas that I was unaware of - I had always associated them with Rockabilly / The Clash types and of course McQueen.  Interesting how many subcultures they have infiltrated.........

 

#108 2008-11-13 11:59:52

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2378

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

First post, hello gents.

jesmond wrote:

i`d in fact been wearing Ivy style and hadn`t even known it(!)

My story is a bit like Jesmond's...
I've always been picking my clothes instinctively. I know what I like, but I could never quite pin my style down.

Until recently, when I discovered this place. To my amazement, here was a group of people defining that same style I had thought was my own particular way of dress. Not only did they have a name for the style, they were historians digging for its roots, signalling its unlikely offsprings, and they kept mentioning all the "right" stuff, down to some very specific clothing items I have in my closet myself. Over the last few weeks I've been having one AHA-Erlebnis after the other, and on top of that I learned. A lot. This was my spot. I knew I'd jump in at one point.

So here goes.
I'd like to praise everyone who has contributed to this forum: you guys seem to know my style better than I know it myself. Thanks for making some of my unconscious conscious.

Take for instance these Playboy shoes. I had never regarded them as being part of a certain style (or it had to be "Rockabilly"). But instinctively I knew they were "my style", because they have a retrospective quality pointing to somewhere around 1960, they have this "timeless" and "natural" appeal, and they can be seen as "conservative" and "subversive" at the same time. Very "moi". I thought it was just me wearing these with my G9s.

Then BOOM - here's this whole thread about a London store I've never even heard of, KNOWN for selling these EXACT same items, and a wealth of other goods that all seem to tie in - OK I think you get it by now. I'm still buzzing to have found this forum.

Here are my two contributions to the excellent list of  Playboy type shoes that's being compiled over here.
I think they deserve a seperate post at some point, especially with the valuable input my fellow enthusiast Jesmond has blessed us with.

Dolcis "Original Play-boy" and Barker "Savile Row".

http://i37.tinypic.com/m9awl1.jpg
http://i37.tinypic.com/29mu2vq.jpg
http://i35.tinypic.com/16iw0pf.jpg
http://i35.tinypic.com/2w5lid4.jpg


I'm not entirely sure, but judging by the label the snuff coloured Dolcis Playboys could well be 40-50 years old.
I got them off eBay, and they were listed as 1950s vintage.

The dark brown Barkers were recently made in Northampton and are a heavier beast altogether.
They are extremely sturdy and well made, but so bulky I will probably put them up for sale and get some Sanders instead (they are size UK 8, if anyone wants them give me a shout).

Thanks again for the wealth people, I'll be around.
Rob, 42 years of age, the Netherlands.

Last edited by 1966 (2008-11-13 12:14:46)


38S | 15/32 | 32/28 | US 8.5D/UK 8E
_______________________________

It is a pleasure to be able to quote lines to fit any occasion. ~ Abraham Lincoln

 

#109 2008-11-13 12:07:24

Moose Maclennan
Ivy Inspiration
From: Hernando's Hideaway
Posts: 3374

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

Welcome Rob, great post (and well photographed)!

If those lovely Barkers were a UK 8 1/2, I'd be the first in line. Cracking looking shoes.


'You know there are some of us that are just fated to look like a mini-cab driver. It doesn't matter what clothes you put on, or how much you pay for them, you're still going to look like a mini-cab driver.'

John Peel

 

#110 2008-11-13 12:38:26

Fred
Member
Posts: 321

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

Great looking shoes........the Barker's look like they might be Original Playboys rebranded.  The Sanders ones are great BTW.

 

#111 2008-11-13 14:27:32

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

1966 wrote:

Thanks again for the wealth people, I'll be around.
Rob, 42 years of age, the Netherlands.

Please be sure to stick around Rob, good to have a fellow countryman posting on this forum....where are you based anyway ( my hometown is The Hague BTW ) ?

Cheers,

Alex

 

#112 2008-11-13 16:36:38

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2378

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

^ I'm in Haarlem sir Roest.

Moose; I just tried the Barkers again to see if they might take a thin-socked, cut-toenails UK 8.5 foot, but I'm afraid they're a true UK 8 indeed.

I might just need to take some time getting used to the Barker's bulky appearance.
Then again - maybe because they were my first - the Playboy's sleeker silhouette set some standard for me. They just strike a perfect balance between bulky and sleek.
Looking at their pictures, I expect to find that in the Sanders shoes as well.

Shoe "weight" is a delicate balance isn't it. A couple of millimeters difference can make or break your footwear. 
These Barkers here just add  too much base to my slimmish, 5.7 self. Although they're the same fit, their outsole's half an inch longer than the Playboy's.
Love 'em though, just not on me.

*Utters the words "stupid massive bumpers", all by himself*

Last edited by 1966 (2008-11-13 17:03:12)


38S | 15/32 | 32/28 | US 8.5D/UK 8E
_______________________________

It is a pleasure to be able to quote lines to fit any occasion. ~ Abraham Lincoln

 

#113 2008-11-13 17:17:01

Fred
Member
Posts: 321

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

Where did you get the Barker's?  I would be interested in a pair, but in a UK 9.5 or 10.......

 

#114 2008-11-14 00:45:31

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 83

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

Welcome home, 1966 -

A fantastic first post & with photos too - Thank you!

We're just enthusiasts over here & very lucky to have all found each other I think. No agendas, nobody trying to make a buck, just like minded people pooling what we know & trying to learn more every day.

Very Best Wishes -

Jim

 

#115 2008-11-14 02:32:09

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2378

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

Russell_Street wrote:

Welcome home, 1966 -

Thanks. Reading these 15 pages of threads really felt like a sort of homecoming.

Fred; I got the Barkers off ebay.co.uk. First time I'd seen them, never seen them since.


38S | 15/32 | 32/28 | US 8.5D/UK 8E
_______________________________

It is a pleasure to be able to quote lines to fit any occasion. ~ Abraham Lincoln

 

#116 2008-11-14 05:54:03

jesmond
Ivy Genius
From: Wry Lane
Posts: 1202

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

Wowwww! Fantastic and fascinating pics, 1966!!!! A great first post.

Playboy Heaven or Playboy Porn!!!????

It really is brilliant to have another PB and Ivy Style  enthusiast posting on here.

Thank you very much for taking the time to post those pics.It`s much appreciated. There are a growing number of us Playboy aficionado`s here on T.I., and i think you`re idea of a seperate thread for Playboys sounds excellent. These shoes and boots really do get under your skin, eh! I love that they are so versatile and seem to go with so much of my own broadly ivy style wardrobe. As you say, they do have a cool and classic 50`s/60`s vibe about them.They seem to lend a young late fifties Frank Sinatra type suave when worn with G9`s.

I have to thank Big John Gall and Jeff and Ken at J.Simons again for first bringing them to my own notice.John Gall first showed me the McQueen connection with Playboy shoes and boots.(We really do have SO MUCH to thank J.Simons for).

Fred and Chris H. here on T.I. i need to thank again for posting the link to the excellent Trickers Mudguard boots.

Those Barkers are near enough IDENTICAL in every way to the Original Playboys i purchased from J.Simons around 5 or 6 years back.(These were Made In England , although George Cox in Northampton have told me that Original Playboy label shoes are now made in Spain.)


http://www.cphvision.dk/html/company_info.asp?id=343


http://www.playboy-footwear.com/

A coming website...!

It`s great to have you aboard, 1966...

Last edited by jesmond (2008-11-14 06:08:11)

 

#117 2008-11-14 06:11:28

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2378

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

Good to be here Jesmond, cheers.
I've hardly been working over the past few weeks, just soaking in all of these wonderful threads over here.

If you have a camera and find the time, please post some pictures of your Original Playboys.
So they resemble my Barkers more than my "Original Play-Boys"?
The plot thickens.

jesmond wrote:

http://www.playboy-footwear.com/

A coming website...!

Actually, I forgot to mention that one.
I saw it a couple of weeks ago, when it didn't say "under construction" yet. They had about a dozen models pictured on there, a selection that reminded me of George Cox's shoes.
I remember seeing a pair of thick creped, low derbies with brogueing details that looked very promising...


38S | 15/32 | 32/28 | US 8.5D/UK 8E
_______________________________

It is a pleasure to be able to quote lines to fit any occasion. ~ Abraham Lincoln

 

#118 2008-11-14 06:40:25

Moose Maclennan
Ivy Inspiration
From: Hernando's Hideaway
Posts: 3374

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

jesmond wrote:

...

http://www.playboy-footwear.com/

A coming website...!...

http://www.playboy-shoes.com/newcollection.asp (same company)


'You know there are some of us that are just fated to look like a mini-cab driver. It doesn't matter what clothes you put on, or how much you pay for them, you're still going to look like a mini-cab driver.'

John Peel

 

#119 2008-11-14 06:43:58

Fred
Member
Posts: 321

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

I know the pair you are talking about - a suede brogue version, so to speak.  I was thinking of ordering a pair of the regular Original Playboys but couldn't work out how much they cost in $$.  J. Simons are no longer carrying them, may still have a couple of smaller sizes left.  They definately still have the Sanders ones.

 

#120 2008-11-14 07:06:38

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2378

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

Moose Maclennan wrote:

jesmond wrote:

...

http://www.playboy-footwear.com/

A coming website...!...

http://www.playboy-shoes.com/newcollection.asp (same company)

Yeah that's the one I meant actually.

It's hard to tell the brogueing in the pictures on their site, so I gave the them some help in Photoshop.

"Danish" Playboys:

http://i38.tinypic.com/op35nc.jpg
http://i37.tinypic.com/2q9e7x3.jpg

I like them brogues, me.

As for the Trickers, I just bought some other shoes from their factory outlet. Will get in touch with them and enquire about the Mudguard model.


38S | 15/32 | 32/28 | US 8.5D/UK 8E
_______________________________

It is a pleasure to be able to quote lines to fit any occasion. ~ Abraham Lincoln

 

#121 2008-11-14 10:28:41

jesmond
Ivy Genius
From: Wry Lane
Posts: 1202

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

Here you go then...


http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/forum/uploads/thumbs/586_pb_018.jpg


http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/forum/uploads/thumbs/586_pb_003.jpg

http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/forum/uploads/thumbs/586_pb_033.jpg

`Original Playboy` shoes and George Cox chukka boots.

The Playboys read:


Original
    PLAYBOY



     genuine
    hand lasted


   MADE IN ENGLAND


I think it would definately be worth getting in touch with Trickers in Northampton regarding them sending you some surplus Japan bound Mudguards.It`s worth a try,eh?

Last edited by jesmond (2008-11-14 11:08:11)

 

#122 2008-11-14 11:17:22

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

Looks like a variation on brothel creepers to me :-

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brothel_creeper

 

#123 2008-11-14 11:18:12

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2378

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

Fantastic shoes Jesmond.
Your Original Playboys resemble my Barkers more than my Dolcis Playboys, don't they.

Looks like the Danish managed to get the rights to use that logo too.

http://www.playboy-shoes.com/pics/logo.jpg

http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/forum/uploads/586_pb_003.jpg


38S | 15/32 | 32/28 | US 8.5D/UK 8E
_______________________________

It is a pleasure to be able to quote lines to fit any occasion. ~ Abraham Lincoln

 

#124 2008-11-14 11:31:22

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2378

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

Kingstonian wrote:

Looks like a variation on brothel creepers to me :-

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brothel_creeper

I guess they are really.
But their simple derby uppers set them worlds apart from those panther printed efforts - and all the other decorated novelty items in this genre.

http://thumbnail.image.rakuten.co.jp/@0_mall/georges2/cabinet/368.jpg

Yikes.

Last edited by 1966 (2008-11-14 11:37:42)


38S | 15/32 | 32/28 | US 8.5D/UK 8E
_______________________________

It is a pleasure to be able to quote lines to fit any occasion. ~ Abraham Lincoln

 

#125 2009-04-13 04:11:52

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: A Visit To J. Simons

I've been into the cellar two or three times.  My young daughter, needing to pee, disturbed Ken eating his lunch down there.  You take your life in your hands going down.  A big old Woolrich sign, a broken chair, a raincoat hanging in the back of a door, ancient art journals, rows of stuff hanging up in coverings.  A brief tour with the man, looking for art and design books; I felt kind of privileged.

 

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