Miles Away wrote:

Horace wrote:

Golden Arrow shirts, Winter '53:

http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/2216/g … 8ye.th.jpg


Note too, the gorge on this jacket.  Some would claim that this gorge is too low; I think it looks fine.  Though granted it is an illustration and the figure is sitting.

Prince Phillip often has a gorge like that. It works beacuse it's so rare now. Prince P. likes a substantial shoe too...
I'll drop him a line - turning him all Ivy could be a nice little project for me.
M.

What's Phillip's general style?  He seems the sort who wears his clothes until they fall to pieces.  He also has, depending upon your humor, the most horribly UNPC outlook possible....

Horace wrote:

Miles Away wrote:

Horace wrote:

Golden Arrow shirts, Winter '53:

http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/2216/g … 8ye.th.jpg


Note too, the gorge on this jacket.  Some would claim that this gorge is too low; I think it looks fine.  Though granted it is an illustration and the figure is sitting.

Prince Phillip often has a gorge like that. It works beacuse it's so rare now. Prince P. likes a substantial shoe too...
I'll drop him a line - turning him all Ivy could be a nice little project for me.
M.

What's Phillip's general style?  He seems the sort who wears his clothes until they fall to pieces.  He also has, depending upon your humor, the most horribly UNPC outlook possible....

What a can of worms this one turned out to be!
The view from English Fogey Trad Central (Alright Mat?) is that Prince Charles is too flash & that Prince Phillip is a fake. Who'd have thought?
Prince P. & Prince C. are also viewed as both being the 'creation' of the late Lord Mountbatten (sp?). And then the fur really starts to fly with unfounded Gay slurs against Lord M. and a lot of filth about Lady M. in Jamaica. Fogeys, however, do like the Queen.
I think Prince P. used to wear Hawes & Curtis. maybe he still does? We're not on speaking terms... yet.
M.

For Cooley:  Rosenberg, c. 1960.

#8 on the list is a madras end-on-end.  Now, madras is a cloth in addition to a color scheme?  I recall that Brooks used to advertise their blue shirts (with white contrasting collars and cuffs) as a "madras" cloth.  I'm a bit confused about whether madras is a cloth as well as descriptor of color scheme.  Can anyone help me out here?  Was "madras" just an open-ended synonymn in American usage?




Here's Allen Solly (1967) and Brooks (1960):



and

Last edited by Horace (2006-07-05 04:17:26)

Miles Away wrote:

My understanding is that Madras is a light-weight Indian hand-loomed cotton fabric in origin.
The Madras checks came about as an attempt to copy Regimental Tartans when the British were in India. They got the colours a bit wrong & the vegetable dyes used were unstable & the rest is history.
I think I like Madras checks more then I like Tartans, but I do like Tartans very much.
Maybe the rule is Madras checks for the spring & summer, and Tartans for Autumn/Winter?
Only AHAT can rule on that though. Any thoughts AHAT?
Miles.

Dear Miles,

AHAT only rules on what's appropriate to the Trad.   He doesn't actually know anything of substance.  Like what Madras really is.  Maybe he'll check an enyclopedia.  Or cheat and google it.

Thank you,

and Be of Good Cheer,

Horace

Miles Away wrote:

Sorry AHAT - My clumsy wording again -
What I want are the rules on when I may wear Madras & when I may wear Tartan.
I suspect Madras = Hot. Tartan = Cold.
So Madras at Christmas would be as damning as Tartan in August.
M.

Dear Miles,

thank you again for writing.  I'll be glad to give you assistance here.  In general, I adhere to what you
rightly guess is the proper standard for the wearing of the madras and the tartans.  You actually lose points though, if you're an American of Scottish descent and wear "your clan's" colors.   But only if those colors are sported on a matching cummberbund and bow-tie.

as an "American Aristocrat" (according to Malinda), I usually have all these rules internalized.  So in a way, it's difficult for me to pronounce on what is correct and what is not.  For you see, I don't have to think Trad to Do Trad.  For I am Trad.  And the OPH has never crossed my path.

Thank you again, Miles, for the opportunity to Enlighten you.

And please be of Good Cheer,

Horace

Here's some more images:

Winter, 1960:



and Fall, 1957:  these were among the four collars of Brooks "glory" days, if I'm not mistaken.  The other being the "tennis" collar, which I think was (is? does anyone know) a bit longer than the straight point collars of nowadays.  Brooks called the round collar the "golf" collar.  I think they always had tab collared shirts -- but remember them not being so ubiquitous during the 80's or early 90's, if I recall correctly (and I may very well be recalling incorrectly). 




edit: one other thing:  note that here, as in previous ads by other makers or shops, that the grey and tan univ. stripe was popular.  We don't really see too much of that anymore, RTW, at least, do we?  I have a vague recollection that Huntington CLothiers and Bean may've offered these combos long after others stopped doing so.  I don't recall Brooks ever offering them.  But maybe they did....

Last edited by Horace (2006-07-10 04:41:00)

Winter 1950:

edit:  I love that pinned "golf" collar (not yet called such by Brooks at this point?) and the straight collar.  Haven't seen one like that in a while!

Last edited by Horace (2007-01-19 14:09:32)

Sheldon wears these shirts on Big Bang Theory. Especially the Green Lantern and Flash shirts. (which I have.)

I'd like an Aquaman shirt, personally.