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#51 2006-07-04 02:08:11

Daniele
Member
Posts: 368

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

Horace wrote:

From Eddie Jacobs, c. late 1960.  I knew they had a shop in Baltimore, but didn't know they had one in Philadelphia too.

"the French blazer".  The copy was pretty bad when I captured the image.  Sorry if the text ain't too legible.

What do you guys, incl. Miles and D.. think of it?  A possibility?  For the club, a nuit?

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/1156/e … ov2660.jpg

Unfortunately I can't zoom the image, so I can't read the description and why they define it French, but I like the cut and the stripes.
I've got a similar vintage striped jacket, Italian, maybe 1964-65; stripes are on the brown-ish and green-ish tones and fabric is kinda tweedy. Striped blazers are usually associated with sprts/daywear but with the right accessories can definitely be dressed up, and play a good figure on a night out to some nice clubs.
Up thumb from me then!:-)

 

#52 2006-07-04 02:30:05

Horace
Member
Posts: 6067

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

Daniele wrote:

Horace wrote:

From Eddie Jacobs, c. late 1960.  I knew they had a shop in Baltimore, but didn't know they had one in Philadelphia too.

"the French blazer".  The copy was pretty bad when I captured the image.  Sorry if the text ain't too legible.

What do you guys, incl. Miles and D.. think of it?  A possibility?  For the club, a nuit?

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/1156/e … ov2660.jpg

Unfortunately I can't zoom the image, so I can't read the description and why they define it French, but I like the cut and the stripes.
I've got a similar vintage striped jacket, Italian, maybe 1964-65; stripes are on the brown-ish and green-ish tones and fabric is kinda tweedy. Striped blazers are usually associated with sprts/daywear but with the right accessories can definitely be dressed up, and play a good figure on a night out to some nice clubs.
Up thumb from me then!:-)

Yo, D:

The original copy appears "blurry" too -- let me see if a magnifying glass won't decode the thing.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#53 2006-07-04 03:22:09

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

I'm sure I've seen a pic somewhere of Art Blakey in a very similar jacket, only his was cut much shorter. I'll try to find it to check.
I'd call it a very 'Continental' look, but Italian more than French (But that is only a view from the U.K.).
Nice though, & I think it has it's place - Well found!
Probably it's not tweedy enough for me, but on anyone else it could look great.
Another thumb up.
M.


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#54 2006-07-04 03:41:23

Daniele
Member
Posts: 368

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

Miles Away wrote:

I'm sure I've seen a pic somewhere of Art Blakey in a very similar jacket, only his was cut much shorter. I'll try to find it to check.
I'd call it a very 'Continental' look, but Italian more than French (But that is only a view from the U.K.).
Nice though, & I think it has it's place - Well found!
Probably it's not tweedy enough for me, but on anyone else it could look great.
Another thumb up.
M.

Miles, maybe the photo of A. Blakey wearing the striped blazer is in J. Simons website's 'Style icons' page ?
http://j.simons.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/

 

#55 2006-07-04 04:04:01

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

Daniele wrote:

Miles Away wrote:

I'm sure I've seen a pic somewhere of Art Blakey in a very similar jacket, only his was cut much shorter. I'll try to find it to check.
I'd call it a very 'Continental' look, but Italian more than French (But that is only a view from the U.K.).
Nice though, & I think it has it's place - Well found!
Probably it's not tweedy enough for me, but on anyone else it could look great.
Another thumb up.
M.

Miles, maybe the photo of A. Blakey wearing the striped blazer is in J. Simons website's 'Style icons' page ?
http://j.simons.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/

Well spotted! THAT is the jacket. There are other publicity shots of him in it too. I'm not sure if it was a Ad. for the Messengers or for Blakey's Gretsch drum kit. I suspect the latter. Who knows?
Wonder if the others in the band had the jacket too? For a while they did that kind of thing...

Last edited by Miles Away (2006-07-04 04:04:37)


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#56 2006-07-04 04:35:27

Horace
Member
Posts: 6067

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

Miles Away wrote:

Daniele wrote:

Miles Away wrote:

I'm sure I've seen a pic somewhere of Art Blakey in a very similar jacket, only his was cut much shorter. I'll try to find it to check.
I'd call it a very 'Continental' look, but Italian more than French (But that is only a view from the U.K.).
Nice though, & I think it has it's place - Well found!
Probably it's not tweedy enough for me, but on anyone else it could look great.
Another thumb up.
M.

Miles, maybe the photo of A. Blakey wearing the striped blazer is in J. Simons website's 'Style icons' page ?
http://j.simons.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/

Well spotted! THAT is the jacket. There are other publicity shots of him in it too. I'm not sure if it was a Ad. for the Messengers or for Blakey's Gretsch drum kit. I suspect the latter. Who knows?
Wonder if the others in the band had the jacket too? For a while they did that kind of thing...

I like this jacket:

http://j.simons.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/

What type is it?

Is that a slack, or is a slack something else entirely?  Where' sthe word from?  A UK thing?

I don't know anyhting about BD Baggies (though I'd heard the name before).  I'd guess that, given the strength of the Pound (and the EUro isn't too bad either), that the best deal would probably be the Brooks shirt, on sale (in 3's) and shipped over to England.

I wonder if J. Simons could get a line on a bolt of old-school D J Anderson oxford cloth?


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#57 2006-07-04 05:52:04

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

'Russell' did a 'BD Baggies' thread on AAAC back in the day. Should still be there? They are OK, but a bit 'so what?'.
Shipping in Brooks & Press IS cheaper than BD. B. & much better.
I used to call the Slack Jacket a 'Larry David Jacket'. It was Chris H., who sometimes posts here, who told me what it was actually called. Flusser calls them Slacks too. More than that I don't know... yet...
M.
Not sure about the Oxford cloth. Ring & ask? I'm not sure it's quite their thing. They are more imported RTW focussed.


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#58 2006-07-04 07:08:25

Daniele
Member
Posts: 368

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

Horace wrote:

Miles Away wrote:

Daniele wrote:


Miles, maybe the photo of A. Blakey wearing the striped blazer is in J. Simons website's 'Style icons' page ?
http://j.simons.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/

Well spotted! THAT is the jacket. There are other publicity shots of him in it too. I'm not sure if it was a Ad. for the Messengers or for Blakey's Gretsch drum kit. I suspect the latter. Who knows?
Wonder if the others in the band had the jacket too? For a while they did that kind of thing...

I like this jacket:

http://j.simons.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/

What type is it?

Is that a slack, or is a slack something else entirely?  Where' sthe word from?  A UK thing?

I don't know anyhting about BD Baggies (though I'd heard the name before).  I'd guess that, given the strength of the Pound (and the EUro isn't too bad either), that the best deal would probably be the Brooks shirt, on sale (in 3's) and shipped over to England.

I wonder if J. Simons could get a line on a bolt of old-school D J Anderson oxford cloth?

Horace,
what jacket are you referring to? a strange thing of JS website is that links recall always the mainpage..

As for the BD Baggies (aka the shirt in the canvas bag that doesnt need to be ironed -according to ads) I have one, a short sleeve 3 button down quite slim ('University cut' as they define it). Not bad, decent material. Very very casual.

 

#59 2006-07-04 13:54:29

Horace
Member
Posts: 6067

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

I was looking at the "Belmondo" overcoat under the "what's new" section.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#60 2006-07-05 04:03:25

Horace
Member
Posts: 6067

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

I like this cardigan with a thin dark tie.  Maybe the look is almost costume now.  c. 1960:

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/4470/sweaternov2619602it.th.jpg

Fine-wale corduroy suit, from Deansgate, c. 1957:

http://img55.imageshack.us/img55/7753/deansgatesept21579wx.jpg

Flannel blazer, from Paul Stuart, c. 1957:

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/7271/paulstuartsept21575eo.jpg

The New Look of Corduroy.  Some seriously floodin' trousers avec black weejuns, c. 1957

http://img55.imageshack.us/img55/6557/cords1sept21571la.th.jpg


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#61 2006-07-05 05:25:52

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

Horace wrote:

I was looking at the "Belmondo" overcoat under the "what's new" section.

I'm expecting the Belmondo to be a raglan sleeved overcoat, either full-length or 3/4. A bit Sherlock-Holmesy if my luck is in. I'm hoping it's going to be more Grey than Green. We will see...
M.


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#62 2006-07-05 05:31:19

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

Horace wrote:

I like this cardigan with a thin dark tie.  Maybe the look is almost costume now.  c. 1960:

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/4470 … 2it.th.jpg

My late Jazz-loving Uncle George (I won't call him 'sainted' because he hated crap like that) lived in this look for as long as I can remember. I fully intend graduating to it too someday. It's a nice look. Relaxed and self-confident. It seems to show off a nice attitude to me - Confort, style & ease.
M.


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#63 2006-07-05 05:54:44

Daniele
Member
Posts: 368

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

Miles Away wrote:

Horace wrote:

I like this cardigan with a thin dark tie.  Maybe the look is almost costume now.  c. 1960:

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/4470 … 2it.th.jpg

My late Jazz-loving Uncle George (I won't call him 'sainted' because he hated crap like that) lived in this look for as long as I can remember. I fully intend graduating to it too someday. It's a nice look. Relaxed and self-confident. It seems to show off a nice attitude to me - Confort, style & ease.
M.

I like it too, with a nice slim knitted tie, grey or subtly checked trousers and loafers. I've a grandpa's black cardigan that still pays the bill. I wear it also with turtlenecks, when I'm in a more 'Continental' (French?) vein.

 

#64 2006-07-05 06:24:49

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

Good look D. !
I really don't think that it is costume or retro even, not quite yet anyway in Europe.
Funny how from the UK 'Continental' conjurs up Italy to us, not France. Odd - Must be cultural.
M.


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#65 2006-07-10 04:44:07

Horace
Member
Posts: 6067

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

Fall, 1957


http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/6233/gordonphillysept21578yt.jpg


A whipcord suit.  Anyone wear these anymore?  I don't even think I have a pair of whipcord odd trousers...

Last edited by Horace (2006-07-10 04:44:57)


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#66 2006-07-10 05:52:32

Daniele
Member
Posts: 368

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

I've got a pair of vintage beige Levi's Sta-Prest in whipcord. Very practical.

 

#67 2006-07-10 14:17:09

Horace
Member
Posts: 6067

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

Daniele wrote:

I've got a pair of vintage beige Levi's Sta-Prest in whipcord. Very practical.

D.,

I remember you mentioning some of your Levi's "Sta-Prest" trousers.  I don't recall these being available in America.  But perhaps they were.  Do you know when these were made?


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#68 2006-07-10 15:19:22

Coolidge
Member
Posts: 1156

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

The suit looks nice.

Would someone do a youngun a favor and explain what whipcord is like?

Or is it one of those if-you've-never-seen-and-felt-it-I-can't-explain sort of fabrics--like a wash and wear Dacron suit wink

 

#69 2006-07-10 15:58:25

Horace
Member
Posts: 6067

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

Coolidge wrote:

The suit looks nice.

Would someone do a youngun a favor and explain what whipcord is like?

Or is it one of those if-you've-never-seen-and-felt-it-I-can't-explain sort of fabrics--like a wash and wear Dacron suit wink

This says it better than I can:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whipcord save it's a tough, tighly-woven woolen fabric.   Press uses it for odd trousers.  It's heavy and stiff (or at least the stuff that I've seen is) and looks good with tweed jackets.  Filson also uses it for its hunting trousers.  I don't really see too much of it anymore.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#70 2006-07-11 06:41:30

Daniele
Member
Posts: 368

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

Horace wrote:

Daniele wrote:

I've got a pair of vintage beige Levi's Sta-Prest in whipcord. Very practical.

D.,

I remember you mentioning some of your Levi's "Sta-Prest" trousers.  I don't recall these being available in America.  But perhaps they were.  Do you know when these were made?

I think that Levi's introduced permanent-pressed trousers (I guess that the trademark Sta-prest is kinda phonetical transcription of 'Stay-pressed'?)  in 1964. They were made in a cotton-poly blend, pressed and then 'cooked' in special ovens: heat fixed the fybers shape and made them virtally wrinlkle-free.
I've read that, to advertise them, levi's salesmen used to drive to their customers with a portable washing machine to show that sta prest's crease didn't disappear after washed and dried!
As for as I can guess from 60s ads, they were commercialized in the States and later exported to Europe: Sta Prest were the big thing for British working class subcultures only since 1968 circa.
For early Skinheads the most in demand color was white, but differents colors took over according to different areas and even different crews.
The process were applied to different models; initially were cut like proper slacks with trimmered legs, in-seam vertical pockets (or slanted) and uncuffed (these are the most sought after today). Later also jeans cut were produced. Mine, from the 70s, are like these latter.
The idea of trousers that din't need to be ironed proved to be successful for a while, so many other brands like Lee or smaller local makers began selling their own versions ('Perma-press', etc.)
The process was applied also to corduroy, whipcord, denim fabrics, etc.
During the mid 90s Levi's re-issued some sta-prest trousers, with white label instead of the black one with golden letters. I bought a pair also of this kind, in off white; still have, not bad.

Last edited by Daniele (2006-07-11 07:10:21)

 

#71 2006-07-11 07:33:51

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

So funny -
I was checking on details while you must have been posting this D.
Certainly imported Levis Sta-Prest featured in the 'Ivy Shop' & 'Squire' in 60's Ivy London. Sta-Prest were especially 'Squire' from what I can gather.
I've worn re-issued Sta-Prest & heard stories of the originals but never seen them. Certainly I've seen and worn my share of Sta-Prest look-a-likes in my time (When? '77 to '80?). I dropped them when I could get my hands on nice chinos.
They have their place & are a nice memory for me.
M.


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#72 2006-12-08 06:53:23

Horace
Member
Posts: 6067

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

Miles Away wrote:

So funny -
I was checking on details while you must have been posting this D.
Certainly imported Levis Sta-Prest featured in the 'Ivy Shop' & 'Squire' in 60's Ivy London. Sta-Prest were especially 'Squire' from what I can gather.
I've worn re-issued Sta-Prest & heard stories of the originals but never seen them. Certainly I've seen and worn my share of Sta-Prest look-a-likes in my time (When? '77 to '80?). I dropped them when I could get my hands on nice chinos.
They have their place & are a nice memory for me.
M.

I wonder if you can find Sta-Press in the US still?


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#73 2006-12-08 08:40:15

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

Horace wrote:

I wonder if you can find Sta-Press in the US still?

I wonder if non-iron treatments replaced permanent press?
By which I mean the application of a teflon or Dupon chemical after manufacture.
Rather than a special process in the manufacturing process itself.
The former method is probably cheaper: just make normal pants, then treat them; no special manufacturing processes or techniques, or machinery. If it's cheaper, then it would be prefered.


"Clothes make the man only if they fit." Carole Jackson
"Once upon a time, life was not better. It was just different." William Norwich
"This is one of the testimonial pictures that Satan uses in his brochures." Anonymous

 

#74 2006-12-08 12:54:23

stanshall
Member
Posts: 121

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

Horace wrote:

Miles Away wrote:

So funny -
I was checking on details while you must have been posting this D.
Certainly imported Levis Sta-Prest featured in the 'Ivy Shop' & 'Squire' in 60's Ivy London. Sta-Prest were especially 'Squire' from what I can gather.
I've worn re-issued Sta-Prest & heard stories of the originals but never seen them. Certainly I've seen and worn my share of Sta-Prest look-a-likes in my time (When? '77 to '80?). I dropped them when I could get my hands on nice chinos.
They have their place & are a nice memory for me.
M.

I wonder if you can find Sta-Press in the US still?

Only really small-waisted NOS ... I bought a pair of the reissues in 2000 in LA, they are indestructible, but by the time I realized I should get another pair or two they were all gone .... Walker's on Boylston Street in Boston this used to be a great place for NOS Sta-Prest and other fab gear:

"Landmark store hanging up its boots - Rising rent forces out Western wear retailer Walker's, by Thomas Grillo, BG, D1.
After providing bikers, equestrians, and rock stars with Western wear for 70 years, Walker's Riding Apparel on Boylston Street will close its doors May 31.... The landmark store, whose regulars have included entertainers Willie Nelson, Eric Clapton, Aerosmith, Elvis Costello, Peter Wolf, and Boston's legendary Rex Trailer, has fallen victim to Boston's hot real estate market. The landlord, Emerson College, plans to raise the rent for the 2,500-sq-ft space from $5,000 to $9,083 per month, according to Walker's own Peter Gordon... as the opening of the mixed-use Millennium Place - with a Ritz-Carlton hotel, luxury condominiums and a 19-screen cinema - has driven up property values in the neighborhood."

(May 2002)

 

#75 2006-12-08 13:19:58

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Natural-Shouldered Trad images from the 50's and 60's.

They really should revive Sta-Prest, it's the missing indredient of that whole Ivy college boy look of the 50's/60's. I guess they're early '60's really, but I've nothing to back that up.
'Wheat coloured' Levis are another thing I've heard about bit don't know enough about from a similar period.

Looking at the Japanese 'Take Ivy' book there are so many Sta-Prest (or Sta-Prest style) wearers in '65 in the Ivy campus shots that it's amazing that we've not seen them on AAAT yet.
... Then again as they weren't a part of the 'Preppy' thing they may well be out of 'Trad's' frame of reference. Odd that. Never mind.

Back in the day I had Sta-Prest look-alikes in Silver Grey, Black, Pale Blue, & Olive Green. I wore them with no break & usually the Mid-Grey Burlington Argyles. Penny Weejuns, Blue/White Candy striped OCBD ('Geoffrey Scott' - another name from the past!), White T, Bottle Green or Navy G9. Hair was Steve McQueen-esq & I listened to a lot of Jimmy Smith (The Organ Grinder's Swing, The Cat, etc.). It was a 'Summer look'.

I never had a bad back back then neither...

t.

Last edited by Terry Lean (2006-12-08 13:23:27)


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

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