Si

Funny you would mention that. I stated my negative reaction to the coat in AAAC, and was told by manton that Raphael had made some of the same comments on the coat to him. Imagine my pride when I discovered that Raphael agreed with my assessment

Marc, whilst I agree that everyone's ideal suit is a different beast, I disagree with the implied assertion that there are "technical" flaws on this coat. If one's preferences are for another silhouette, so be it, but to attribute one’s dislike to “technical flaws” (when there are none) is – I’m sure you’ll agree - a bit rich.

What exactly does 'balance' mean when applied to a jacket?

It appears to be a white 6x2 double-breasted dinner jacket.

As it is, I think the silhouette of it is quite nice with suitable waist and sufficently sized peak lapels. Also it doesn't suffer from that low gorge 6x1 or some other mildly tacky one buttoned double breasted mode.

And as for some of the members of the other forum, their aesthetic insipidness is breathtaking in its stagnancy; ever like requisite bogmen, weighted down with their abortive notions.

Last edited by Incroyable (2006-04-09 01:20:44)

Ken,

Just because an article of clothing travels around the world in museums does not correlate to it being an example of expert tailoring. Ever seen the famous jacket of the Prince of Wales at Venazi in NYC? - the coat looks terrible.

For the record, I have seen several Neapolitan garments up close (and I'm not talking about pseudo Neapolitan makes like Borrelli). A senior partner at my firm exclusively uses bespoke Attolini, and I've also seen the La Vera stuff that Kempson has numerous times. None of the jackets (and I've seen well over a dozen bespoke Neapolitan suits on customers) have pockets that are that low. And don't blame the short skirt - Caraceni is famous for its short-skirted coats and the pocket placement looks nothing like that.

You are intitled to your opinion, and I'm fine with that. Next time you may not want to start a respone by calling a poster a fool,

Panzer

Last edited by Panzeraxe (2006-04-08 13:11:37)

Very true - people often focus far too much on the level on handiwork in a coat, rather the more important issues of fit and silhouette - the Borrelli cut is most uninspiring.

Well, in my mind the Neapolitan cut is very similar to A&S. By that I mean plenty of drape, very soft canvas, minimal padding in the shoulder (and with some Neapolitan tailors, none at all), low waists and flared skirts (vary by tailor), and of course, the famous sleevehead.

Some Neapolitan makes, like Attolini, are also much leaner than the norm,

Panzer

This thread inspired me to have a look at some Neapolitan suits, being an English traditionalist I have seldom ventured far from Savile Row, so I went to the Attolini web site. Despite an intense dislike of how the site worked there was a lot of interesting material there. Looking at the pictures the thing that struck me was that, with a couple of exceptions, the two styles look remarkably similar. I suppose that may be a side effect of the use of mannekins where the jacket is pinned to emphasis the shape. The sleevehead was the most obvious difference, and the other was that the length looked shorter than I would expect. Oh, and the use of patch pockets. Is that accurate or am I missing something (quite likely)?