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#101 2012-11-08 08:17:42

adorable homunculus
Member
Posts: 816

Re: Garish bespoke?


We dont need any of the clothes we buy except as a means to be the star in the film of our life populated by constructs  - FNB

 

#102 2012-11-08 08:29:25

imanob
On Holiday...
Posts: 4

Re: Garish bespoke?

Envious?

 

#103 2012-11-08 09:15:13

Oldfruit1
Member
Posts: 531

Re: Garish bespoke?

for fucks sake .. why are you handbagging each other over a chat on bespoke clothing? lol

back to the subject anyway .. the declining audience for bespoke is why the trade has shrunk drastically & even once famous names on the row have gone to the wall .. i cant speak for US culture, but in the UK most old money english gentlemen dont wear bespoke these days ..fact! if you need an example look at some of the high profile upper class british politicans, george osborne, boris johnson, david cameron .. if you know what to look out for you can tell they dont wear bespoke (or at least dont most of the time)! on the other hand a consumate middle class social climber such as tony blair used to wear bespoke, so draw your own conclusions!   

a lot of it comes down to basic economics .. cost of labour has risen exponentially over the last 50 years and bespoke tailoring has gone up with it, while RTW tailoring has become more affordable due to increasingly sophisticated machinery. So the gap in cost has widened enormously, the difference in quality I would also argue has shrunk so the advantages in bespoke are not as pronounced as they once were when machinery was limited in what it could do. in fact i would go as far as to say that if you look at some of the work in a bespoke suit you would probably prefer it to be machine stiched these days as a machine can do more reliable solid stiching which wont come apart as easily. hand stiching is often irregular, not straight and can stray along a hem or such like and can be too loose or tight etc. machinery these4 days can even put in looping stiching around the neck etc which is probably better than handstiching.

the buying public is subliminally aware of all of this, therefore they have voted with their feet. thats why in my opinion bespoke has become the preserve of new money business people looking to enjoy the percieved trappings of success, foreign money trying to buy some cachet or 'clothes hobbyists' such as our friends on various forums & blogs smile ofcourse you are going to get a few old money aristocrat types, but i would hazard a guess that these old boys are a dying breed (quite literally in many cases) and perhaps carry on seeing a tailor that they may have done so out of habit for the last 50 years, while their children are likely to just buy off the peg. obviously the saville row tailors are always going to talk up this type of customer base as thats what gives the brand cachet and thats what all the foreign buyers (arab oil money, us financiers & businessmen, chinese party workers who have 'diverted' funds and the like) are trying to buy into .. they want to be the archetypal english gent! smile problem is that character doesnt exist anymore .. the uk has changed enormously post war.

fruity

Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2012-11-08 09:43:17)

 

#104 2012-11-08 09:28:34

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: Garish bespoke?


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#105 2012-11-08 09:30:24

imanob
On Holiday...
Posts: 4

Re: Garish bespoke?

This fruit is clearly in agreement with me, homunculus...and he is quite right, and I like the cut of his jib.

Apologies will be accepted in the form of back rubs. Homunculus, when?

Last edited by ivanov (2012-11-08 10:14:50)

 

#106 2012-11-08 09:38:24

adorable homunculus
Member
Posts: 816

Re: Garish bespoke?

Formby, Oldfruit - sorry, guys.

Once I realised it was going to be dragged off topic so quickly I just threw a parting quip at our illustrious new member.

I couldn't PM him because......


We dont need any of the clothes we buy except as a means to be the star in the film of our life populated by constructs  - FNB

 

#107 2012-11-08 09:40:19

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: Garish bespoke?


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#108 2012-11-08 09:53:14

imanob
On Holiday...
Posts: 4

Re: Garish bespoke?

Well not only the English gent, there was an article in the NYtimes or economist about rich Russians wanting 'English hired help'.

British cleverness has nothing to do with it however...the aura of respectability and power is what people are after when they think of the English gent.

And homu, I cleared my inbox...I wait anxiously for your not so insipid msgs.

Last edited by ivanov (2012-11-08 09:54:24)

 

#109 2012-11-08 10:13:17

imanob
On Holiday...
Posts: 4

Re: Garish bespoke?

Last edited by ivanov (2012-11-08 10:13:40)

 

#110 2012-11-08 10:14:17

Ali Kebab
Member
Posts: 491

Re: Garish bespoke?

I think nowadays to be successful on Savile Row one needs to be a good storyteller, or even better, a pathological liar.

 

#111 2012-11-08 10:18:55

imanob
On Holiday...
Posts: 4

Re: Garish bespoke?

Are you a kebab or are you a South Asian? The Kebab in the name the Bollywood in the avatar...what are you Ali? A Turkish Hindi or something?

Success anywhere is marketing, which makes you correct but the problem is you sound bitter. I'd like to get something made on the Savile Row, but I've never been in London long enough for all those fittings.

 

#112 2012-11-08 10:21:24

Oldfruit1
Member
Posts: 531

Re: Garish bespoke?

i think its the image of the english gentleman which was created in the victorian era to support imperialism & colonialism, to convince the rest of the world that the english were superior & deserved to run their countries. so perhaps the english gentleman never really existed as we percieve, but was always an exagerated construct and example of early marketing and PR. the problem is that they did such a good job in creating this image that foreign buyers still think english gentleman exists .. and consequently throw money around to try and imitate an archetype existing within their own imagination.

as someone who wears a mixture of handmade bespoke tailoring as well as off the peg clothing (some of which i have to confess from M&S smile ) i have looked carefully at many features of a handmade jacket for example and wondered what the fuck was going on with stiching that has such a large 'loop' on the inside lining that you know its going to catch and rip, or stiching that is veering off dangerously close to the edge of a lapel .. then comparing it to off the peg machine made stuff and thought .. well thats neater and stronger and will last a hell of a lot longer. bespoke tailors are forced to make things by hand even when they probably know a machine will do it better these days as thats the niche they have carved out .. the artisinal approach is something that people like the idea of even if has zero (or even negative) real value! there are only 3 valid reasons to go bespoke imo .. 1) your frame is different to most other people (i fit most RTW perfectly as my dimensions are similar to most manafacturers, overweight or short men often have the most problems but i would suggest a gym membership would be more helpful than a high end bespoke tailor) 2) you want a certain cloth (why i have gone bespoke in the past 3) you dont care about relative cost.

fruity

Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2012-11-08 10:26:20)

 

#113 2012-11-08 10:24:45

imanob
On Holiday...
Posts: 4

Re: Garish bespoke?

I agree with you fruit. I use bespoke because I have a slight figure though, I am quite slim...Also my father got me into it.

What is M&S?

 

#114 2012-11-08 10:25:45

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: Garish bespoke?


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#115 2012-11-08 10:28:06

imanob
On Holiday...
Posts: 4

Re: Garish bespoke?

Hello formby, I am intrigued that you are telling me what I said...show proof that I even mentioned Savile Row before homu booted up his dusty critical thinking box.

I answer no questions until this is resolved.

Last edited by ivanov (2012-11-08 10:30:11)

 

#116 2012-11-08 10:32:34

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: Garish bespoke?


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#117 2012-11-08 10:33:44

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4182

Re: Garish bespoke?

Bespoke is attractive notion but the reality is sometimes a disappointment.

If people cannot be bothered with a simple alterations tailor to improve their ready-to-wear clothing, they are unlikely to truly value bespoke. Unless there is a quick win like cuff buttons that undo   - ' Look I am better than you! My suit cost more!'

I can remember when men cared about clothes but those days are long gone.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#118 2012-11-08 10:35:46

imanob
On Holiday...
Posts: 4

Re: Garish bespoke?

Formby, that was in response to homu explicitly bringing up the Savile Row....Reading comprehension, sir.

I never invented the concept of typical bespoke as you say now...Do you imagine Savile Row bespoke is on par, at least in prestige, to Hill Billy Joe Bespoke in Minnesota?

Read a book, son.

Last edited by ivanov (2012-11-08 10:36:21)

 

#119 2012-11-08 10:39:29

Oldfruit1
Member
Posts: 531

Re: Garish bespoke?

can someone advise on whether there is an 'ignore' button on this site .. if not can we sort this out ASAP.

 

#120 2012-11-08 10:40:19

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: Garish bespoke?


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#121 2012-11-08 10:41:15

imanob
On Holiday...
Posts: 4

Re: Garish bespoke?

Is this in reference to me, oldfruit? I can't understand why...you also deleted your link to M&S, I was just about to look into it. Very odd, I guess we aren't friends- sadness in my heart

 

#122 2012-11-08 11:05:41

Oldfruit1
Member
Posts: 531

Re: Garish bespoke?

i figured you were pulling my leg as the first thing that comes up on a google search with M&S is 'Marks and Spencer'.

www.marksandspencer.com/

its a old department store, was seen as the preserve of the english middle classes.

fruity

ps please stop with the 'he said, she said' bullshit .. really tedious.

 

#123 2012-11-08 11:07:44

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: Garish bespoke?


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#124 2012-11-08 11:08:25

adorable homunculus
Member
Posts: 816

Re: Garish bespoke?


We dont need any of the clothes we buy except as a means to be the star in the film of our life populated by constructs  - FNB

 

#125 2012-11-08 11:12:45

imanob
On Holiday...
Posts: 4

Re: Garish bespoke?

 

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