After looking at various photos it seems there is a prevailing trend for men to wear extremely tight jackets, where not only do you get the famous 'X' crease but considerable pulling across the jacket. This includes bespoke where adjustments could be made to avoid this so I assume this must be deliberate on the part of customer and tailor.

I often am confronted with the converse issue when buying off the rack, with the fastening button not being tight against the sternum .. I think some manufacturers in high end rtw know most customers are portly men (seems rich men usually are fatter as well) and therefore make a lot of allowance in this area.

Any views on tightness of a jacket? Any guidelines which may help to determine good fit?

Fruity