I think Public Jestering could have been written for either of you.
Much of this thread is complete bollocks. But pay attention to JFMs original posting. Absorb the effect his words had on The Guv'Nor. He was almost certainly referring to Pad and Jim in this context although I'd stake my shirt on the same attitude prevailing with TRS and his Liverpool 'Mod Monk' chums. And this is important. And significant.
Earlier today, in a 'retro' shop (not entirely devoid of interest) I examined a few items of 'vintage' clothing. It was overpriced and no-one could possibly have worn, say, an ancient (yellow) Rocola shirt in this day and age for anything other than a fancy dress party where bottles of Blue Nun were the preferred drink. A Crombie (£45) was a museum piece. Anyone wearing most of this gear would be altogether self-conscious - thus negating the effortless way of dressing of the Old School Ivy crowd.
Complete bollocks written on Talk Ivy, surely not. So many of the posts on these old threads were JFM harping on about a short period when he knocked about with certain people, for all I know it only it might have only lasted a few weeks or months. To hear him talk you would thought him and Kev Rowland were life long chums but I think he only met him once. He was in thrall to certain people. How much of it was real or imagined we’ll never know. But the underlying theme is always the same … we were in an in the know gang, we had the look off to a tee, most others were just aspiring or didn’t have the insight to be as hip, sussed or whatever as the inner circle of Ivy. This feeling comes across in posts by others who consider themselves to be the elder statesmen of Ivy. It’s not attractive or welcoming and now somewhat irrelevant. Nostalgia is good and there is much to be learned from the past, but I’m more interested in the the future and wearing casual suits with sneakers. Ivy is not preserved in amber, Ivy moves forward.
Before we know where we are someone will be suggesting wearing a suit without a tie is Ivy League instead of reminding the beholder of a certain type of witless TV presenter. A suit, whether unstructured or otherwise, must be worn with proper footwear, be it lace-up or slip-on. To claim anything else is mere foolishness and leading the style by the nose away from its roots and towards what is nothing more or less 'trendy' dressing.
Ivy (or, now, 'Ivy') may not be preserved in amber, that's very true, and Big Tony was gently reprimanded on here years ago by, I think, another American poster who stated (quite reasonably) that Tony's take was impractical. (I wonder where Tony is now and what he's wearing). But I think we are now talking about 'Ivy League', not Ivy League. And TRS might find nothing much to disagree with concerning Woof's posting. The style shifts and shimmers, moves backwards, forwards, sideways but - as Woofboxer himself once said in another thread - there are rules. Do there have to be? Well, yes, otherwise we're left with everything and nothing. JFM could be slightly dogmatic in his approach but was always open to ideas and was not unwelcoming (in spite of his many character flaws). But you cannot simply write off the pioneers and hope to create something out of thin air. Can you?
The currently missing Yuca BTW remains, I think, a purist.
I don't think there's anything wrong with being a purist. If that's what floats your boat.
Over here, you'd have to factor in the fact that you're not an American college kid or professor in 1965. Buying affordable clothes that are available in the campus store. Which you're not putting a lot of thought into. I can't imagine those kids in Take Ivy holding up a jacket and pondering over the vent. Wondering if it's 'Ivy' enough.
Wouldn't interest me as I tend to subscribe to Woof's viewpoint. And I like to move things along and change my mind as I please.
JS is usually seen as the purist's top spot, but they've introduced Vetra and Paraboot. Darts when it suits them. As long as people can reconcile that it's all healthy.
I have to say, who ever Big Tony was, or is, and wherever he is now. He's gone. So his viewpoint shouldn't matter. With things like this, once you move on you've had your say and you're part is played.
I agree about 'Take Ivy'. They just wore what they bought and what they bought was readily available by then. They often give the impression of being late for a nine o'clock lecture.
'But you cannot simply write off the pioneers and hope to create something out of thin air. Can you?'
No. I don't think you can. If you're creating something out of thin air, there's nothing to look back at is there? Even something that's evolved as much as US motorcycle culture openly aknowledges and mirrors it's roots. But they've also moved with the times, within whatever parameters they deem too important to lose.
I believe when Woof is referring to a suit and sneakers, he's not talking about a Ted Baker number with Prada trainers. Going back (again) to Take Ivy, if there was one picture in there of a guy wearing a Brooks poplin with low converse, we'd all be holding it up a classic now. Denim shorts are quite rightly often rubbished on here. But again, if there was one photo of those guys wearing them (turned up maybe?) with white socks and loafers, we might think differently. No?
^ Probably so, yes. But denim shorts are for fit teenage girlies.
On the other hand, I've seen quite a few Boom Years images that do nothing for me. Hasn't everyone?
AFS- What ever you do don't read the Sunday Times Style supplement for last Sunday. You will have a heart attack if you do. The advice for male dress at weddings suggests no tie is good and Addidas Stan Smith trainers with a suit look 'classy'. The suit itself needs to 'embrace colour'
Of course if you have any aspiration towards an Ivy look then you need to stay within certain parameters, maybe a certain 'feeling' would be better than a prescriptive word like parameter. But walking around in a sharply creased Brooks plain grey two piece, crisp white shirt, silk repp tie and polished longwings just doesn't fit in with anything that most people do these days. Much as I applaud that look and admire it, anyone wearing it in all but the most limited fields of work or leisure activity would stick out like a sore thumb and come across as being rather eccentric.
Strangely a crisp white shirt, worn open necked with sharply pressed chinos and polished longwings would probably attract positive comments. The point being that for certain items of clothing a dash of casualness is needed for them to fit into day to day life. This concession to reality doesn't mean you have to start wearing a football shirt when you take your wife out to dinner.
Like it or not, we have to wear our clothes in the modern world. So rules about what you must wear with a suit are about as relevant as the rules for dodo shooting contests. 'Rules are for the obedience of fools and the guidance of wise men', a quote which is often attributed to Sir Douglas Bader, but in fact he nicked it from Harry Day the WW1 Royal Flying Corps fighter ace.
I have no problem with being thought eccentric. Quite the reverse.
I think clothing, or style genres must be allowed to progress in much the same way as music does. Otherwise it becomes a relic.
I would use Teds as an example, but that evolved so far that the name went. Into a very healthy scene mixing rock’n’roll and rockabilly style and music with swing sounds and a loose 40’s/50’s look. They know and respect their history, but aren’t stuck in it, like skinheads tend to be. There never having been much room for manoeuvre as far as acceptable clothing and music tastes goes on that scene.
We’re lucky in that ivy style clothing offers so many variations, in summer or winter. American, English, Continental. Town, country or beach. Day or night. Work or weekend. As simple and basic as the look appears, once you start digging, it’s difficult to grow bored.
If JS closed up shop and acceptable boom years stuff stopped popping up on ebay, I’d like to think people would, like me, still find their way to the style and adapt it to their own day to day needs.
Well: they might. Then again they might not. But we all need reference points. Even chaps like John Simons has his reference points. It's how you choose to deploy them that counts.
I'm forever looking at and pondering over certain images. But I have no great issue with something being construed as a 'relic'. As for the concept of nostalgia - mentioned in another post - it was once said (albeit in a different context) that it was simply a fashionable way of explaining away the fact people were discovering something of value had been taken away from them.
Does music always progress? Surely not. Who would take Emerson, Lake And Palmer over J.S. Bach? Or Kenny Ball over Bix Beiderbecke?
Well. I was trying to say that certain genres of music have progressed and changed over the years.
The most modern soul is not a lot like Motown or Stax. But is still unmistakably soul. It’s not for me to say whether it’s better or worse, but it has progressed.
I don’t know a lot about jazz, but do know that it’s followed a similar path. Taken much more diverse twists and turns than most genres along the way. Still jazz is jazz and it’s stayed alive snd relevant.
Music in the style of, I don’t know, Gilbert and Sullivan? Or chamber music? just got left behind as a museum piece.
AFS, I’ve just re-read your last post properly, and of course you get that entirely. My last post is pointless and I’d delete it if it was the honest thing to do. But I’ll leave it hanging there as an example to myself if nobody else.
Someone once said - and it's true (I think Alvey will bear me out on this) - that the real trouble with jazz is, there's so much of it.
A woman I was conversing with on Saturday afternoon: 'I don't like jazz'. But what exactly did she mean? What and how much, I wanted to ask her, have you bothered with? I grew up with it. It was always around me. But get someone to listen to Ellington, followed immediately by Sun Ra, or 'Potato Head Blues' or 'Jeepers Creepers' followed immediately by 'The Fables Of Faubus' or 'Bemsha Swing' confusion might well arise. I mean, some like hard bop. I don't. I can even get by without much in the way of bebop.
No: it's a major subject.
Surely claiming you don’t like jazz is like saying you don’t like art. In any form?
That said, I did once work with a guy in his 50’s who simply didn’t like music. In any form. Didn’t hate it. Just in his whole life had never heard one single piece that he enjoyed. Never met anyone like that before or since!