I have read many a post over the last year or so. I reckon just by reading I learned about a lot of custom touches for suits. For example, there are different button stances and pants details. My question is, aside from people who obviously love clothes, what is the reaction in the American workplace to men wearing details such as English backed pants and double breasted suits? Does it matter a lot if you are a venture capitalist or in private equity, healthcare, accounting or advertisng? Aside from clothing fans how do ordinary bankers, executives or clients react to men sporting suspenders or bold shirts with spread collars? Is it all distracting?
Sometimes I wonder if all the monies being spent on this specialized clothing with slanted jacket pockets isn't causing more harm than good. I mean that singling yourself out might make you a target.
You might get some raised eyebrows or joshing depending on how junior you are. At a bank in the U.S., I cannot imagine wearing high backed pants with suspenders and DB suits unless you are at least a MD. Maybe as a V.P., if you're European or in Europe and you've got the balls to pull it off.
Bold shirts with spread collars and french cuffs have become so common in recent years, I don't think they signify much anymore. I personally wouldn't wear them to an interview but otherwise I doubt you will encounter any problems.
Many formerly 'custom' or typically 'European' details such as slanting or ticket pockets and side vents have become quite common in RTW available in America. Wearing these does not stand out much anymore.
The English back pants and suspenders would not be a big deal if you didn't have to take your jacket off. But most people do. For one thing, if you keep your jacket on all the time people might think you're too "uptight" or "hiding something." For another, office buildings are notoriously overheated in the winter.
Ironically, DB suits might be okay on a junior guy if they are cheap RTW and fit poorly. People would understand that he can't afford anything better. I've met a few unfortunate souls who dress like this. But if you're wearing a well-fitting, handmade DB with a bold spread collar shirt (especially a contrast-collar shirt), shined, good-quality welted shoes, and a tan leather briefcase -- the whole package, I mean -- then don't be surprised if people think you're a little big for your britches!
Last edited by my cat, Figaro (2007-03-16 12:27:54)
Last edited by Patrick Bateman (2007-03-16 12:42:45)
If anyone were to question my braces, I'd simply reply Al Qaeda shmaeda, it's crucial that my trousers fit properly.
My experience is if youre good at what you do, no one notices little quirks or they ascribe them as positive signs of performance. If youre incompetent, then people wonder why you spend time on
It depends on how you wear them too. I wear a lot of so called "quirky" touches but it doesnt seem to register on people, maybe because I am not that quirky, maybe someone who likes to make people laugh but not quirky. It might just suit my personality too, which as you can imagine is assertive.
I mentioned that a month or so ago I was in meetings with people I hant met before wearing the plainest things I could muster and within a week I was dubbed fashinisto. For some of us theres no escape.
If you make a place look good and you work for good people, how can they fault you for that? I dont know how braces got controversial here but they did.
That's why I like the thin silk trafalgar limited edition ones, they dont show through the jacket. They are still worn in financial circles.
The best advice for Americans is that they place you under scrutiny for attitude early on, the more liked you become and the more valuable, the more expressive you can be. That's why you hear a lot of white shirt and plain suit to interview advice. it isnt that Americans resent well dressed people, they actually respond very well to signs of affluence. It's just they want to make sure you will fit in before you begin to branch off.
London is generally more forgiving, because the workplace is much more international than NY too. In my office, there is a well-respected senior person who looks like he has not left academia yet, with his LLBean backpack. There is an English genius who looks really really young who has a good (but eccentric) taste in clothes, constantly made fun of in the New York office, but I think quite well loved in the London office. I personally lean towards business casual euroconservative styling. I don't think people would consider it an affront if I dressed above my level of seniority. I think your relationship with other people and how much respect people have for you (regardless of your age/seniority) matters a lot too. But then I also work on the trading floor - and the trading floor environment in London I find very collegial and friendly. Banking might be a lot more hierarchical.
Last edited by sloaney (2007-03-16 16:36:55)
Last edited by bosthist (2007-03-16 17:26:31)
It's probably also prudent to undergo changes in personal style relatively slowly -- frog in boiling water and all that ...
Working in Japan, I'm automatically singled out. The upside is that I can get away with more in terms of dress, though in my current position I wouldn't attempt a DB. What amazes me, rather, is what awful things people get away with wearing at the office. I can only imagine the kind of brow-beating I'd give some of these people if I were a senior manager.
I had an interesting discussion the other day with one of my coworkers, who's somewhat more sophisticated than most. He noticed my Zegna Twin tie and got on the sublect of clothing. The subject of shoes came up and the difficulty of finding my size in Japan, which led to a discussion about custom shoes. When I said I knew of a maker and mentioned a price, he remarked that his wife would never stand for it no matter what. Fortunately, I'm not laboring under any such constraints.
I also doubt that anyone at work will notice when my wardrobe gradually transitions from MTM to bespoke. If it registers at all, if will be subconsciously, and besides, I think my competence gives me latitude to dress impeccably. And since I'm the one paying for my wardrobe, I consider dressing well to be a professional skill.
I am considering a switch to a law firm that is meaner and more corporate than my present one, where I wear braceback trousers and a waistcoat without a thought. I think the way to "break in" my new colleagues would be wear a white shirt with these (quite conservative, but in a British way) suits for several weeks at the beginning. That way, the suits are just suits, and I am not seen as obviously attempting to make any clothing statements. On the other hand, wearing a suit at all might be considered making a clothing statement.
...and yet double-breasted blazers are quite common, still.
Maybe just in the UK.
I suspect the apparent decline (or hibernation) of the double-breasted suit has much to do with the extremely high gorges(?) of suit jackets driven by the fashion industry in the late 1990s economic boom -- it's impossible to do a high-gorge double-breasted jacket without looking like a naval uniform.
TV
I first saw this thread after arriving at my office today, I promise; and here’s one data point. I arrived for work wearing a 6X2 DB medium grey flannel suit, navy/white mini checked broadcloth shirt with full roll, high band button down collar, navy silk knit tie, tan/navy striped grosgrain suspenders, chestnut half brogue oxfords, paisley silk pocket square with navy ground and tan/rust/brown figures worn puffed and pointed; everything RTW. Oh, and a silver collar pin worn as a tie bar. Since arrival, I’ve received two “dappers” and several “are-you-in-court-todays?”; no negative comments. It’s hard to imagine a more conservative environment than where I work: think US government agency full of lawyers. Yet this is the way I’ve always dressed and I don’t remember ever hearing or experiencing anything negative, directlly or indirectly, with regard to my attire. On the other hand, I’m sixty and I’ve been doing what I do successfully for well more than thirty years.