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#1 2007-03-26 03:49:56

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics

Lean,

how have your recent tailoring expriences gone?  What's the reaction of the tailor when you ask for something that's relatively American (save the more moddish inflections of such?).  I presume that most of these guys who do the kit the way you like are very off off Savile Row, right?

Was there every a traditional London Ivy fabric for summer?  I'm thinking of going linen/silk blend of some sort, but I'm not sure where to look.  I see some nice stuff, but I'm thinking something in blue/grey with some sort of pattern to it.


If you've seen the pics of O'Connell's website, then you'll know that the photos of their summer suitings and jackets are very much traditional and were (are?) standard fare at the Campus shops.  But what about England?  Do you miserable people acknowlege the sun and its salutory effects, and if so, what fabrics, in the summer, are you using for your Ivy togs?


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#2 2007-03-26 04:48:30

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics

Last edited by Terry Lean (2007-03-26 04:49:37)


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#3 2007-03-26 05:24:32

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics

This is a cut & paste job from some old emails I sent to Chris:

10 Sack suits still in active service  -

All 3 to 2, natural shoulder with lapels all around the 3.5" mark current when they were bought new 1985 - 2006. Other details noted by item. Tweed, Seersucker & poplin suits are top stitched with the usual 1/4 swelled edge. Formal (Press) suits are not.

Suits, all 2 piece:

4 'Anglo-Ivy Tweed 'MTM by 'Hine' (minimal waist suppression & shoulder padding) -
Mini mid-Grey herringbone cheviot with subdued blue over check. Electric blue lining. 4 on cuff. Hook vent.
Olive Green variegated herringbone cheviot with soft orange over check. Olive lining, 4 on cuff. Hook vent.
Rich brown cheviot with soft red overcheck. Gold lining. 4 on cuff. Hook vent.
Buff covert cloth, bottle green lining - Weighs a ton! 4 on cuff. Hook vent.
Still wear the jackets sometimes, but never the trousers anymore. All very 'country'... -ish!

1 Haspel Slate grey poplin Sack. Flap pockets. 3 on cuff. Hook vent. Harvard Coop.

2 Brooks:
Blue/White Seersucker Sack. Patch pockets with upper besom. 3 on cuff. Wear the jacket but rarely the trousers.
Khaki Poplin Sack. Details as above. Worn as a suit..

3 Press, 'Pressclusive' :
Charcoal Plainweave Sack. Flap pockets. 3 on cuff.
Mid Grey Plainweave Sack. Ditto.
Olive Poplin Sack. Ditto.

All trousers plain front & turned-up.

11 Sack Jackets -

Details as per suit jackets mainly (3 to 2, natural shoulders etc), other details noted.

Pressclusive:
Mid Grey Herringbone. Flap pockets. Hook vent. 3 on cuff.
Mid Brown Herringbone. As above.
Olive Herringbone. As above
Soft Browny-Fawny cord. As above.

Orvis:
Mid Brown Herringbone. Needs a 'Shaggy Dog' underneath. 3 on cuff. Centre vent.
Fawny-Browny Harris Tweed. As above.


Brooks:
Mid grey Herringbone. Patch pockets with upper besom. 3 on cuff. Centre vent
Charcoal Herringbone. As above

Bean:
Khaki 'Chino' jacket. 3rd button hole added. Darted, but it barely effects the cut. 4 on cuff. Centre vent.
Ditto in Olive.
Ditto in Stone.
These can be made into suits with matching chinos.

(Just realised that in every case where I mention patch pockets what I meant was Patch & Flap.)


And I forgot 2 Navy blazers. Brooks & Press. Usual details.


Chris H., for comparison, had something like 50-odd jackets alone back then & is still having more jackets & suits made up by George of Harringay who seems to be the best man found to produce The Look in England. I'd left town before I'd even heard of him!
Most of my stuff is US RTW with tailored alterations.


t.


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#4 2007-03-26 06:49:02

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics

 

#5 2007-03-26 07:33:54

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#6 2007-03-26 08:28:58

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13195

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics

l could probably go a `sack suit'. l've never ever seen one in the flesh, but l reckon the deconstruction would appeal to me. l could play my `sackbut' trombone in my `sacksuit'. lt would be an awesome experience; + l would feel really really trad.

Regards: The Shooman (student of trad and NSILC).

 

#7 2007-03-26 08:49:20

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#8 2007-03-26 19:02:20

Coolidge
Member
Posts: 1192

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics

I am an avocational big band/jazz trombone player on the side, playing at the professional level.  The sack suit/dj/wdj has never been a playing hindrance.

Brookmeyer solos can be a bitch though, as is J.J.'s shot on "Laura" which I once did for All-State in high school.

It's a great instrument. Undervalued. My idol was always Dorsey for tone, though. It takes a certain understanding of tone to be a good big band player. Far too many now step in from playing classical on their wide bore, F-attachment numbers. It just doesn't blend.

Last edited by Coolidge (2007-03-26 19:03:38)

 

#9 2007-03-27 00:32:56

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#10 2007-03-27 01:23:38

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#11 2007-03-27 01:28:38

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#12 2007-03-27 18:40:47

eg
Member
From: Burlington, ON
Posts: 1499

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics

 

#13 2007-03-27 19:40:24

Coolidge
Member
Posts: 1192

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics

Last edited by Coolidge (2007-03-27 19:42:26)

 

#14 2007-03-28 14:34:09

SubtleCool
Ivy, but subtle with it.
Posts: 289

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics

Mr Lean mentions never having seen Madras over here...

Which reminded me of my old Mod days in the mid '80's. We weren't yer revival cliches but those band of strange souls who got a bit more interested in the clothes side and as Mods are wont to do, we wanted to find items witha bit of edge. Having picked up on the Ivy side, me and some others decided to try and find Madras jackets for that summer look. We were young and, well, it was the '80's ( a bit of a desert for Madras ) so we had to find vintage. I found a rather nice, subtle and dark blue/green check and with our loafers on we strode the town. 

Rather romantically, that jacket is still sitting in my loft. Should I retrieve it?


Me? Conspicuous? Lady, I'm the invisible man.

 

#15 2007-03-29 01:11:22

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics

Last edited by Terry Lean (2007-03-29 01:22:34)


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#16 2007-03-29 01:27:36

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics

"So there I am polished heart throat in full puff
I look the part my wad is packed to reimburse.
I've yet to re-rehearse many moons spent on lovelines lent from
Long-legged pop-eyed fat-necked Benny Bullfrog.
Final run-through polish up
The flower of love's my buttercup.
Moon in June for you I'll croon
Just like pop-eyed fat-necked Benny Bullfrog.
Mean piece of muscle I'm Melvin Toad,
I dice with death, across the road.
Hop aboard my lover's leap
Fat-necked Quatermass
Who needs a Benny Bullfrog.
Here she comes (Keep a cool head)
My legs numb (Keep a cool head)
I can't run (Keep a cool head)
High! My name's Hunky how d'you do
I catch a fly in one swoop
I catch a fly just for you
That's if you do want me to
But you're not hungry I know
A sixth sense gave me a clue.
I know what else we can do.
(You creep !)
Long-legged pop-eyed fat-necked Benny Bullfrog.
Wish I was Benny Bullfrog
Cool as Benny Bullfrog
What's the secret, Bullfrog?"


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#17 2007-03-29 01:43:37

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics

Another cafe we used was the 'Bon Boniere' or something opposite the Spread Eagle pub off Oxford street up by the Bond Street turning...
And all the Valerie's places - Especially Marylebone High Street.

http://www.patisserie-valerie.co.uk/index.php?sid=685d7cd34b42&p=outlets&PHPSESSID=0ea819553e6b55301cd3af1c5dd701c8

t.

Last edited by Terry Lean (2007-03-29 08:24:48)


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#18 2007-03-29 05:23:26

SubtleCool
Ivy, but subtle with it.
Posts: 289

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics

Not my gang, we used to lounge around in the Amalfi on Old Compton Street, which at the time was half restaurant/half caff, now all restuarant I think. We used to pretend to peruse italian newspapers like the posers we were, but actually talk about clubs and records and birds...you know, the usual. We also attended the great 'Purple Pussycat' club, run by the legendary DJ Paul Murphy. We were all used to 2-3 minute dance tracks and he laid the LP version of 'Sidewinder' on us. We even danced to the bass solo.   

I got the Madras in Camden market and it was in surprisingly lovely condition. Flapped pockets, not patch.

It's quite a thing, the first time you wear a Madras jacket, that lightness. It's almost like it's not there, then you catch it in the mirror and for a moment, your waltzing down Madison Avenue on a warm day in 1960 with Coltrane on the soundtrack. Romantic old fool.


Me? Conspicuous? Lady, I'm the invisible man.

 

#19 2007-03-29 08:43:14

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics

Last edited by Terry Lean (2007-03-29 08:43:50)


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#20 2007-03-31 04:37:51

SubtleCool
Ivy, but subtle with it.
Posts: 289

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics


Me? Conspicuous? Lady, I'm the invisible man.

 

#21 2007-03-31 11:24:57

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics

Last edited by Terry Lean (2007-03-31 11:26:45)


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#22 2007-03-31 12:08:06

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics

Stone me, SubtleCool, you're popular!

I'm being spammed to death over you...

I'm told these are things to mention to you:

Sneakers.
Shirly.
The Bush Hotel.
"The List".

Did you know 'Grayhound' (or Graham G., Ex: Kingston-on-Thames, now Shoot-Up Hill)?

Only 'A face in the crowd' he says.

(This ought to be a PM... I just wanted to show off that I have a cool mate...) smile

t.


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#23 2007-04-11 02:46:20

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#24 2007-04-11 08:54:31

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics

Paul Hallam.....wouldn't be the husband of Fay Hallam of Makin Time fame?  just curious!

the clubs nowadays (in LA anyways) go back to the roots with soul, reggae, some beat.....so musically it's where it should be, but the attire still leaves something to be desired.  It's great guys know the music (which is important) but they don't know the clothes so well, oftentimes going with a generic "Merc" mod uniform.

Last edited by Get Smart (2007-04-11 08:56:34)

 

#25 2007-04-11 12:27:54

SubtleCool
Ivy, but subtle with it.
Posts: 289

Re: Lean's tailors? & Summer fabrics

Hallams are not related.

Paul now runs a number of bars in London, main one is Filthy McNasty, named after an Eddie Jefferson track if memory serves.

Fay has a rather neat beat combo called The Fay Hallam Trinity.


Me? Conspicuous? Lady, I'm the invisible man.

 

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