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#1 2007-04-25 10:07:59

Frog in Suit
Member
From: Paris, France
Posts: 18

The Bespoke Bug is Back!

This is my first post and I would like to start by expressing my admiration for the encyclopaedic knowledge demonstrated by many of the participants of this forum.

As a brief introduction, I have had about five suits, plus jackets and trousers, made by a Savile Row firm (actually situated away from the Row proper, but a part of that universe). That was about ten or fifteen years ago. The prices, alas, have gone up enormously, but I would like to form a new connection with a tailoring firm. The one I used then appears to have changed completely and I am looking for someone else. My tastes are towards the traditional (braces, waistcoats, long-lasting garments, not “super-numbered” cloths).

I have done some research and selected a few candidates, based on current prices and mentions in the Richard Walker book The Savile Row Story, published in 1988, as I would prefer to deal with a well-established firm. The selection is somewhat haphazard, given the limited information I can get, but this is the best I can do on my own. I have called most of the firms in question to check their prices. They all profess to be able to make a suit respecting the customer’s wishes and peculiar tastes. The house styles, in as much as they exist, seem to tend towards “a bit of waist”, “somewhat flared skirts”, in a generally traditional way. The prices (two piece, VAT included) range between £ 1,950 and £ 2,225. I live in Paris, so travelling to London for fittings is a feasible proposition.
The firms are, in alphabetical order:
- Benson & Clegg (Mr. Ken Austin), 9 Piccadilly Arcade.
- Jarvis & Hamilton (they share premises with L.G. Wilkinson. Joce & Co., who used to share the same address, do not seem to exist anymore), 11 St. George’s Street.
- Jones, Chalk & Dawson, 6, Sackville Street. (They incorporate Meyer & Mortimer, as well as Ward & Kruger.)
- L.G. Wilkinson, 11 St. George’s Street. (Cf. Jarvis & Hamilton above)
- John Lester, within Harvie & Hudson on Jermyn Street.

For what it’s worth, I gather that both Benson & Clegg and Jones, Chalk & Dawson have more than a single cutter/proprietor, while the others appear to be one-man bands. I have read some favourable mentions of both Benson & Clegg and Meyer & Mortimer (Jones Chalk & Dawson) in this and other threads.

Finally, my question, with many thanks for any input you may provide: Does anyone have any direct experience or second-hand knowledge that may help me make an intelligent selection amongst the above? Quality and durability of the garments, conscientiousness of the cutter/tailors, as well as “unflashiness” of style, would be primary considerations. Any negative factual information would also be welcome, in order to avoid making a costly mistake.

Again, thank you.

Last edited by Frog in Suit (2007-04-25 10:08:29)


If you are 'Grayson', I don't really like banning people - just take your medication like the nice doctor says, and you can stay. - J, SF moderator

 

#2 2007-04-25 12:15:23

BCL
Member
From: ..............
Posts: 254

Re: The Bespoke Bug is Back!

Welcome to FNB, FIS!
Your experience with bespoke will prove most valuable on this forum.
All firsthand knowledge is.
Again, welcome.


Take care, gents.
God bless.
-BCL

 

#3 2007-04-25 16:17:24

jaeger
Member
Posts: 137

Re: The Bespoke Bug is Back!

 

#4 2007-04-25 16:23:19

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: The Bespoke Bug is Back!

IIRC, John Lester worked at Huntsman and so I suspect his cut might reflect that pedigree.  Although he works for himself, I don't know that he actually makes the clothes himself---I imagine he contracts out.  Met him a few years ago in NY and  remember how his sleeves were unusually short, displaying very flamboyant cufflinks.  Another member here speaks highly of John Coggin.


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#5 2007-04-26 04:39:22

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: The Bespoke Bug is Back!


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#6 2007-04-26 06:21:52

Ed
Member
From: USA
Posts: 264

Re: The Bespoke Bug is Back!


Regards.
Ed

 

#7 2007-04-26 06:38:48

Twin Six
Member
From: WASP in Tokyo
Posts: 1486

Re: The Bespoke Bug is Back!

 

#8 2007-04-26 06:39:03

Frog in Suit
Member
From: Paris, France
Posts: 18

Re: The Bespoke Bug is Back!

Many thanks for the information. At this stage (I am not going to London until mid-May), I am thinking more of Benson & Clegg or Meyer & Mortimer (aka Jones, Chalk & Dawson or Ward & Kruger), since these are the only two of my list which were mentioned more or less recently on this forum. I remain eager for more information, though.

Best regards,
Frog in Suit


If you are 'Grayson', I don't really like banning people - just take your medication like the nice doctor says, and you can stay. - J, SF moderator

 

#9 2007-04-26 07:13:42

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: The Bespoke Bug is Back!


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#10 2007-04-26 07:45:44

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: The Bespoke Bug is Back!


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#11 2007-05-05 09:09:19

Frog in Suit
Member
From: Paris, France
Posts: 18

Re: The Bespoke Bug is Back!

After futher research on the subject I found this excellent discussion on another forum awhile back.

http://www.styleforum.net/archive/index.php/t-9189.html

Marc,

In the thread you praised the SR firm C&M's house style as the closest to Sean Connery's James Bond. That's the kind of cut I like so if I may ask here would you say their coat hard or soft.

If I'm not bothering you too much any photos of the C&M will be greatly appreciated.

Regards
Frog in Suit


If you are 'Grayson', I don't really like banning people - just take your medication like the nice doctor says, and you can stay. - J, SF moderator

 

#12 2007-05-05 09:15:13

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: The Bespoke Bug is Back!


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

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