Better not go there, we'll have totally derailed the thread.
well it was an interesting diversion anyway, actually probably more interesting than the original starting point on Bemer's plans for global shoe domination.
my thoughts on the shoes following this conversation .. frankly I don't think they will sell in N&L despite attempts by Comps and Co to publicise their merits to the iGentry community ... the typical iGent doesn't have £1350 (or £4000 for that matter for those exotics) to spend on shoes. A small coterie of the iGentry do have the money but I think they are likely to stick with their MTO Edward Greens or John Lobbs (Paris) whose leather is as precious to them as the turin shroud is to a religious zealot, their dogma runs to deep to make the shift. Of the men who can afford the price, the ones who are interested in real quality and have knowledge on the area will opt for bespoke. The showy, new money, look at me type idiots who we described as 'morons in a hurry' are primarily attracted to strong brand identity for bragging rights and Stephano Bemer doesn't have any inroad into the mindset of the fashionista crowd .. now if bemer gave away some pairs to the cretins we discussed above, some footballers, talentless popstar types who were then papped wearing them in hello magazine, it might be different.
result is I think N&L will have them on sale if not this Christmas (as discounting within three months of stocking them would be v embarrassing for all involved), next summer and definitely by next Christmas. I predict they will fall to £700-900 before they discount them further in desperation as the dust gathers on the 'burnished uppers'. They will then stop selling them all together, anyone who needs a resole will be up the creek without a paddle (or in this case a stockist in the uk).
the market for 'high end' shoes is becoming overcrowded in general, men in general have been in a constant drift away from traditional leather welted (goodyear or dare I say it by hand) shoes for many years, into this climate in the last few years you have brands like JM Weston expanding into the UK, you have a raft of makers imitating 'with a twist' traditional shoes for the 'trendy' set like 'foot the coacher' or 'mark McNairy' and selling on places like mr porter, in addition you have Justin and im sure a few others trying to squeeze into whatever little niche they can. glad i'm not in the business as its cutthroat and rather like nightclubs in a city centre a few of the brands seems to be attracting a large proportion of the business, C&J are doing ridiculously well, while others are trading on fumes.
fruity
Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2013-10-02 13:47:21)
Personally I'd only buy crocket and jones handgrades .. there is a huge difference between the mainline and their handgrade lines. It's basically a totally different shoe, from the quality of leather used on the upper, to the oak bark sole which is more tough and flexible, to the better designed last shapes 358 and 337 I think are brilliantly designed (the igent muppets see to be of the opinion that the 358 is the same as the 348 in the mainline, but they are wrong as they feel quite different (c&j describe their handgrade lasts as 'asymmetric'). However the price of the handgrades has gone over 500 gbp which means they are almost the price of john lobb paris normal line. Value play .. not so sure now at current price point.
C&J seem to be in a field of one at the moment: available just about anywhere, affordable to middle management and with superlative quality that gives the Edward Greens and Lobbs of this world a run for their money.
I have my Edward Green fiddle vamps on today and other than the rich antique leather than resembles a fine old Chesterfield or indeed, a Stradivarius, I cannot see anything aesthetically more appealing in shape or last and there is no discernable better comfort factor than with the C&J's Grasmere I had on yesterday.
But there are other less popular contenders: some of the Tim Little shoes are superb, particularly the Gibson on the TL14 last and I recently purchased the dainte soled Ranger from the Henry Maxwell range from Foster & Son which equals the C&J's Pembroke or any other shoes on the 325 last.
With shoe brands like the above around, I see no need to enter the dizzying heights of €800 plus shoes. Of course, I would say that, as the missus wouldn't let me spend that kind of money on shoes.
Yes. Sometimes. But not on Posh Becks.
True...Posh Beck's is a rather forgettable person. l wouldn't even have sex with her unless l was high on powerful drugs.