As I first-time poster, I write this inquiry with great humbleness and great respect for such knowledgeable reader base.
I wanted to hear your views on three-piece suits, and their appropriateness within today's business environment. I must explain that I am an investment banker (we're not all pricks, like the one in the recent post) based in Mexico, where rules of style for the profession are not nearly as uniform and clearly delineated as they are in NY or London. Are three-piece suits out of favor?
I am having a fresh batch of bespoke suits made by my local tailor, and since the additional cost is marginal, I was thinking of having vests made as well. You know, depending on the ocassion, I could choose whether or not to wear them. I tend to favor 3-button jackets, as I believe these are the most flattering for my body type.
Are vests meant to be worn only with 2-button jackets (the few 3-piece suits I've recently seen pret-a-porter were 2-button)? Is it a faux-pas to were a vest with a 3-button jacket (or a 3-roll-2)? From a strictly cosmetic perspective, I like only the top button of a vest to be visible with a buttoned-up jacket, so a 3-button jacket seems to work better for me.
Finally, do you have any views on 5 vs. 6 buttons on the vest? My torso is longish, so I'm leaning towards 6 buttons.
Any additional words of wisdom (pockets, lining, etc) would also be welcome.
Thanks.
I like vests but a colleague asked me to never wear a vest in his presence lol It was my own tailor who first suggested a few years ago that I consider vests for a very classic look, and from what I have read, vests have been in vogue. I have vests with 2-button and 3-button jackets as well as with a jacket w/peak lapels. My tailor only wears vests, even with double-breasted suits, but he is very old-school. In terms of number of buttons on the vest, I'm 6'2" and have 6 buttons, including the bottom-most button that isn't actually buttoned. Hope this helps and good luck.
I like them because they make an unbutton jacket still look reasonably smart and since the cost is marginal, if people at work don't like the vest you can abandon it with minimal cost.
Originally I never had vests but now I do with most of my single breasted suits. Vests can be fun and there are a lot of styles to chose from but definitely follow Marc's advice on the buttons.
Thinking of having a vest or two made for use with sport coats. Saw a gentleman wearing a cream-colored vest with lapels along with a tweed jacket that was very sharp-looking.
Personally, I love vests. I often wear them with odd coats and mix odd vests with suits - it definately changes a rather 'somber' look into something a bit unique. I would go with six buttons, also, something to consider would be the idea of adding lapels to the vests.
I love three piece suits. I love odd vests. In New Haven in 1974 vests were very popular at all of those legendary clothing stores just before they faded into oblivion.
Thanks for your feedback. My handle might misrepresent me, though. I was born (not graduated) in 1974, so my stay in New Haven came many, many years later.
One comment about odd vests with day suits, I know that people like medium to light grey ones or cream ones. Just make sure the weight and the finish of the vest match up with the suit material. if you have a navy flannel suit a cream or pale yellow vest is better in a doeskin, flannel or cashmere, for a plain weve suit, the vest should be in something smoother like barathea.
I have several three piece suits. I dont wear the vests much at the moment but I don't really care about whether anyone else is doing so or not, I personally just havent felt like weaing them. My opinion is that a matching vest is a perfectly appropriate part of a suit and no one should worry about whether you wear one.
Vests can be worn with both 2 and 3 button single breasted suits. They are a little superfluous with a double breasted suit but if they look good on you, then why not? I would stick to a single breasted vest in most cases and especially with a double breasted suit. No idea about mexico but America is entering an individualistic era, maybe stylish eccentricity is about to be rewarded here...for a change.
I really like the look of vests, especially non-matching ones, but they are not part of my repertoire simply because I wear lower rise pants and belts exclusively and the look is not so harmonious. During the winter I wear a lot of sweater vests with sportcoats and perhaps will try one with a suit every once in awhile. I consider a three piece suit more elegant than I am. I like to have a bit a casual look at all times so there is some give and take.
I like 'em though I only own 1 3-piece suit in grey nailhead. I think it's a really smart look and for some instinctive reason I think it makes the tie look better. Would like to get 3 piecers in navy pinstripe, grey flannel, and grey chalkstripe someday, even if I didn't always use the vests.
Also a fan of the odd waistcoat. I've seen a few good examples in 50s films. Though I do think the go-to-hell ones sold by Andover with pheasants and such on them are a bit much.
As for wearing with a 3-2, I know Brooks in the past has made some 3-2 vest combinations, also J. Press continues, every few years, to sell an OTR 3-2 3 piece, and I saw a great looking 3-2 3-piece grey flannel or pinstripe job in the movie "My Favorite Year" on an older gentleman coming out of a theatre, I think, at the beginning of the movie (with red/navy repp tie beneath). It does strike me as a bit of a 50s Ivy look, but I think it could work in modern world without being Ivy as well (though I personally would keep it that way).
Last edited by Coolidge (2007-05-03 10:23:52)
The problem with vests is that they are an added layer of clothing. They actually aren't that much more formal and can be fun with a bold lining but they add warmth. Something we as a nation do not need on our bodies for a variety of reasons, some extrinsic and some intrinsic.
I don't own a three piece, but I do like the look. Cable Car has some nice looking suits from Southwick.
http://www.cablecarclothiers.com/11013_herringbon.html
http://www.cablecarclothiers.com/southwick_scottish_wool.html
Last edited by The_Shooman (2007-05-03 13:32:20)
Timely post for me, as I just added a vest to the suit Desmond Merrion is making me.
Last edited by Horace (2007-05-05 00:22:38)
No, I doubt it will become any rarer. I just don't think we're on the verge of a suit comeback or an era in which Apparel Artsing will be rewarded with anything more than disconcerted looks or snide comments.
Hopefully I am wrong though. Never been any good at calling fashion trends.