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#1 2013-10-29 13:21:13

Topstitcher
Member
Posts: 2519

Sadly Not Sew -

http://www.ivy-style.com/the-swelled-edge-a-quarter-inch-of-distinction.html

The rain is a given in the country. Swelled edges and lapped seams are nothing to do with it. They're all about reinforcing the construction of the garment against very real wear and tear. We had a post on The Wardrobe recently about the 'Railroading' on Covert Coats too - Nothing to do with the rain, but everything to do with heavy duty wear and tear.

Tweed actually has a natural water repellent quality if it is, as it originally was, left full of it's original oils and fats.

Mr. Boyers POV is about as effete and urban as you can get in country terms - What's the worst that could happen? Oooh, it might rain! Let me promise you that, as a serial English Country Gentleman (Usually against my will), I know the country (usually against my will) and the rain just doesn't feature as anything worthy of note. It's a far rougher, tougher place than that. Clothes are reinforced against 'Cutting an Arser', not about getting all wet and nasty.

I've never heard such camp nonsense as the idea that a reinforced country garment is to do with good looks in the wet... And, believe me, I've heard a lot of camp nonsense in my time...

Best -


What the world needs now is love, sweet love... And a jolly good kick up the harris.

 

#2 2013-10-29 13:37:40

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: Sadly Not Sew -

No to mention it's not exclusive to tweed.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#3 2013-10-29 14:16:29

Topstitcher
Member
Posts: 2519

Re: Sadly Not Sew -

Mr. Boyer is right that it's a country detail in origin along with the throat latch and hacking pockets... And hook vents... And...

But the country and its practicalities are not those of the town. Even today.

I remember old tweeds on my Uncles that not only had well-earned elbow patches but also leather piping put on at the cuffs and lapel line because, through heavy duty wear, the garment was really ratty around the edges. The rain didn't do that, bursting through hedges did, either on foot or mounted.

And here's another one - I can recall men taking off their (Tweed) caps and putting them over their faces like a mask as they rushed a hedge to get through it on foot. Tweed was all about this kind of thing, hence brands called 'Thornproof' etc.

If any of them even noticed the rain I'd be amazed.

No man ever used an umbrella in the country when I were a lad. Ladies did and clerics. Nobody else. You 'ad an 'at. And you wore 'Ratting Clothes' all the time: Trashable Trad.  If you bothered with church or the county magistrates court then you'd wear a 'Town Suit' in the country when you had to. But few did. The country was a place of relaxation where you actually didn't live even though you had an address there. The wife and kids would be there but you'd be in the city doing a man's work all week. Friday to Monday (Never say 'Weekend') was for the country and that meant drinking, fornication, eating and other 'country pursuits'. During the week men ate and drank and fornicated in Town - Only wives who read She or Cosmo had 'affairs' men just screwed around.

Country pursuits were also always bloodsports. Nobody 'rambled' or 'jogged' - That was for Townies with romantic notions of the country. Proper people in the country would go for a walk but they'd do it with a gun or at the very least a tupperwear box to collect Blackberries, etc in. Nobody ever left the house without a reason. If you went out it was expected that you'd come back with something, otherwise what kind of fool were you to go out in all the mess and the wet for no good reason?

Pipes with little lids on them I remember, so you could smoke out in the wet. And everybody smoked. And drank. And shagged around. Only silly women 'fell in love' and always with their social inferiors because no proper chap in those days would encourage or entertain such wet notions. Proper people used to have 'A bit of fun'. There was no divorce and separate bedrooms were very common as time went by. Money and property mattered more and often horses too. Wet notions of 'love' were the stuff of your secretary's reading matter, yet it was a very loving culture... But it was love mitigated by practicality. If a couple only see each other twice a week it's ridiculous to expect fidelity, however, once married, couples never split.

There you are - Country Life.

Best -


What the world needs now is love, sweet love... And a jolly good kick up the harris.

 

#4 2013-10-29 14:45:36

Topstitcher
Member
Posts: 2519

Re: Sadly Not Sew -

... And nobody ever took the dog for a walk - You'd open the door and kick the dog out. He wants a walk not you so let him bloody well go and have one.

Pets were all ultimately shot. Nobody spent money on saving Ol' Rover's life, you just got another dog if the one you had was too old/ill/smelly.

Vets were for farmers. Nobody sane looked after the health of their pets. Waste of money. Remembering that nobody ever paid for their pets back then. If you wanted a dog you'd ask around and usually go to a farm and take a pup off their hands before they shot the rest. Cats you couldn't even give away in the country there were so many knocking about.

And nobody bought pet food. Pets ate Giant vibrator scraps or 'Liver and Lights' if you had a good gun dog or were connected to the hunting world where they'd feed their old horses and even dogs to the hounds after boiling them up.

I was amazed to discover that my wife and her family ate Tuna when we first met. A thing I only knew as a treat for the cat. I still don't eat it.

And nobody ever used to eat in the Giant vibrator. The Giant vibrator was NEVER the heart of the home. It was a place like the bathroom or the lavatory -  A room of function and practicality. Increasingly I find myself invited to dinner in people's Big knockers and I always say that I'll come for a drink after. Big knockers, like lavatories, smell and are not conducive to entertaining. 

Ahhhhh - Olde England !    I doubt the place still exists.


Best -


What the world needs now is love, sweet love... And a jolly good kick up the harris.

 

#5 2013-10-29 15:29:36

Topstitcher
Member
Posts: 2519

Re: Sadly Not Sew -

... Cricket was 'The Summer Game' with Tennis for girls. There were no other sports. Swimming was for weirdos.

Rugby was for the Autumn/Winter/Spring. Nobody ever played football beyond tiny little boys just starting their first year at Prep. It was considered a deeply inferior sport.

Netball was also looked down on for girls. Rounders was beyond the pale. Odd that they should have spawned Basketball and Baseball respectively elsewhere.

Hockey (But never on ice) was OK for girls along with Shinty. Lacrosse was for incredibly incredibly incredibly homosexual young men. Even I never played it.

Golf was already dead common by the time I came along (1965) and nobody had ever heard of Badminton as a sport (we knew it as a house) or Squash. Ping Pong (Table Tennis) was for retards.

Nobody sane ever punted no matter how drunk, Croquet was played by 'Country House Rules' which is to say that your host would tell you what the rules of his house were on a whim. No two houses ever had the same rules. Often one played for drinks, but there were stories that others played for sex elsewhere.

Charades were common after dinner. Sherry before and Port after. And men and women did separate after dining before reconvening even in my lifetime. A rite of passage was initially dining with the grown ups - First you would 'withdraw' with the women and listen to all their dirty talk until you were old enough to  stay with the men to hear all their dirty talk instead. The women were always far dirtier. Boys were initiated into all of this before girls.

And there was all the usual sadism and cruelty of all rites of passage - Being sent to get wine glasses for your Aunts to pee in (Very usual and very practical when you're wearing a ball gown - You can't just hitch them up to pop to the loo)... The men's endless attempts to shock and embarrass you... 


... And the link to Ivy here is that it was nothing to do with this world in England.


Best -


What the world needs now is love, sweet love... And a jolly good kick up the harris.

 

#6 2013-10-29 15:34:18

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: Sadly Not Sew -

Ladies and Gentlemen I present to you Jimmy Frost Mellor the man with no class connotations.

 

#7 2013-10-29 15:44:54

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: Sadly Not Sew -

/\ ... too rolling sloaned .... great read ... some surprisingly rough stuff in there, and I think you know what I'm talking about .....


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#8 2013-10-29 15:51:00

Topstitcher
Member
Posts: 2519

Re: Sadly Not Sew -


What the world needs now is love, sweet love... And a jolly good kick up the harris.

 

#9 2013-10-29 15:56:16

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: Sadly Not Sew -

You love it Jim, that's as clear as the chin on your face... you just want your fondant fancy and to eat it. Regale us with all this at one end and be the littlest barrow boy at the other.

 

#10 2013-10-29 16:16:04

Topstitcher
Member
Posts: 2519

Re: Sadly Not Sew -


What the world needs now is love, sweet love... And a jolly good kick up the harris.

 

#11 2013-10-29 16:41:10

Topstitcher
Member
Posts: 2519

Re: Sadly Not Sew -

This might entertain some -

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?50312-Fogey

I gave the copyright for all these 'Fogey' writings to Mr. FNB as a thank you for all his generosity to me.

Americans loved this stuff... But it's the opposite of Ivy in England.


What the world needs now is love, sweet love... And a jolly good kick up the harris.

 

#12 2013-10-29 18:32:56

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: Sadly Not Sew -

My understanding of pick stitching is that it reinforces the edge of the lapel. The edges of the lapel can roll, looking unsightly if this isn't done. On RTW jackets it cosmetic because the lapel is fused.

The next time I visit my tailor I'll ask him to make sure I have this correct.


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#13 2013-10-29 21:24:19

Sammy Ambrose
Member
Posts: 3649

Re: Sadly Not Sew -


If you aren't seeing through all three eyes at once day and night you are up shit creek without a paddle. The Shooman

 

#14 2013-10-30 02:13:41

Topstitcher
Member
Posts: 2519

Re: Sadly Not Sew -


What the world needs now is love, sweet love... And a jolly good kick up the harris.

 

#15 2013-10-30 02:47:49

Topstitcher
Member
Posts: 2519

Re: Sadly Not Sew -


What the world needs now is love, sweet love... And a jolly good kick up the harris.

 

#16 2013-10-30 02:55:17

Topstitcher
Member
Posts: 2519

Re: Sadly Not Sew -


What the world needs now is love, sweet love... And a jolly good kick up the harris.

 

#17 2013-10-30 04:05:20

Sammy Ambrose
Member
Posts: 3649

Re: Sadly Not Sew -

Last edited by Sammy Ambrose (2013-10-30 04:07:03)


If you aren't seeing through all three eyes at once day and night you are up shit creek without a paddle. The Shooman

 

#18 2013-10-30 05:02:22

Harpo
The Best In The West
From: West Wales
Posts: 3394

Re: Sadly Not Sew -


Randy lower-class trifler

 

#19 2013-10-30 05:03:08

Topstitcher
Member
Posts: 2519

Re: Sadly Not Sew -

Yes, the priorities of that world that you and I know about were very different to what is imagined by outsiders, Mr. Formby - Turning on the central heating is the coward's way out !

To entertain the forum further I'll tell you that one of the reasons that class hated the working class was because they saw them as being ludicrously self-indulgent, sitting around their gas fires with their bags of crisps in between meals...

My Grandmother used to go upstairs on her hands and knees when she became so sadly infirm in later life. No Stannah stairlift for her. Luxury was frowned upon as being morally wrong. It was associated with the decadent sybaritic aristocracy and the pampered childish working class with their NHS false teeth... When our teeth fell out we ate soup, we didn't expect new teeth from the state so we could carry on eating bags of crisps...

wink

It was a very bizarre world and more than a little 'orrible.

... And yet there are elements that I still can't quite shake off... Not turning on the heating and eating leftovers are my secret pleasures.


Probably this thread is heading towards being NSFW material now as I've left telling off that wet leg Mr. Boyer far behind...


What the world needs now is love, sweet love... And a jolly good kick up the harris.

 

#20 2013-10-30 05:07:15

Topstitcher
Member
Posts: 2519

Re: Sadly Not Sew -


What the world needs now is love, sweet love... And a jolly good kick up the harris.

 

#21 2013-10-30 05:12:21

Harpo
The Best In The West
From: West Wales
Posts: 3394

Re: Sadly Not Sew -

Last edited by Harpo (2013-10-30 05:20:59)


Randy lower-class trifler

 

#22 2013-10-30 05:25:31

Topstitcher
Member
Posts: 2519

Re: Sadly Not Sew -

... Everything was always about money... Money which must never be wasted, but also never really enjoyed. It was just piled up for no good reason, 'for a rainy day' which never came. Very insecure, you see. Displays of wealth were 'vulgar' and vulgarity was the greatest sin, never mind if you peed in a wine glass after dinner.

Everybody else was trashy, including the Royal Family, because they wasted money. The Pope was a common subject of prolonged rants. It was WASPdom gone wild.

... And never mention what your father discovered in his little hobby of family genealogy... Before we were English, before we were French, we were Jewish opportunist immigrants.

You have to laff, don't you ?


What the world needs now is love, sweet love... And a jolly good kick up the harris.

 

#23 2013-10-30 05:28:40

Topstitcher
Member
Posts: 2519

Re: Sadly Not Sew -


What the world needs now is love, sweet love... And a jolly good kick up the harris.

 

#24 2013-10-30 06:05:57

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: Sadly Not Sew -

I dont hate the upper class im just not fond of people trying to be street savvy and glorifying a working class they can never relate to... ie Jim

He thinks it gives him kudos, but he just looks like a tit especially when he likes to go on like he does above here. The most obvious link between Jim and the countryside is the smell of horseshit

Last edited by Bop (2013-10-30 06:06:43)

 

#25 2013-10-30 06:19:55

Sammy Ambrose
Member
Posts: 3649

Re: Sadly Not Sew -


If you aren't seeing through all three eyes at once day and night you are up shit creek without a paddle. The Shooman

 

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