Where's the dividing line between Dandy and Clothes Horse?
The impression I get of a clothes horse is distinct from my impression of a brand whore. I think they are quite separate species.
I think a clothes horse loves clothes for the sake of clothes, and has an extensive wardrobe, but his choices are not all that distinct. The dandy, on the other hand, has a penchant for quirky choices that few have either the panache or the courage to pull off. The dandy is not averse to raising eyebrows, while such a response would give a clothes horse pause.
As I understand the term, a Dandy is a wit (admittedly a subcategory, as there are wits whose dress is unremarkable), and therefore his clothes are only part of his persona. The Clothes Horse need not be a wit at all, and may just be interested in clothing for the purpose of status, vanity, or sheer acquisitiveness.
In fairness to the Clothes Horse, he does at least care about his appearance, and I think is a welcome change from the mallwear crowd. The Dandy can be entertaining or mortifying, depending upon your own particular forms of insecurity.
Both terms can be used as perjoratives, certainly, and I wouldn't expect much differentiation in intent on the part of those who would use them as such.
I would say the key point is that a "dandy" has his own aesthetic that endures....so there will be times when he looks "in style" and other times when he doesnt (after the fashion wheel has turned on). But he has a very deliberate aesthetic that goes beyond brands and labels, as he doesn't care if something costs $50 or $500 as long as it fits into his aesthetic.
The clothes horse is more common, someone that buys (usually high end) something just to have it, usually characterized by "quality" items made to have no distinct personality and plays it safe when it comes to sartorial expression. Generally his closet elicits oohs and aaaahs because of the labels, which brainwash many into thinking it looks better than it does. No personal aesthetic, usually follows all the established 'rules' and would consider a pink tattersall shirt to be the limit of his sartorial extremity
interesting point about "Well Dressed Man"....I'd agree with that, tho I would also say that in many instances he is an aspiring "Clothes Horse" just without the financial means to properly be one. I don't think WDM has the clearly defined aesthetic that Dandy has, tho that's not to say he doesnt have a look in mind that he's trying to reveal, it's just as not strictly defined.
Or maybe WDM can be found lower on the "obsessive" scale than the Dandy.
It seems to me that a clothes horse is self-conscious, whereas a dandy is self-aware; a clothes horse seeks approval from others, while a dandy is not concerned with what others think and dresses to please himself.
I think the clothes horse would be much more swayed by fashion. He would be likely to wear RTW shirt-tie combinations. He wants to be seen as being above reproach, but needs help from the mainstream to do so.
The dandy, by contrast, disregards fashion in favor of his own vision. He may have an awareness of fashion, but it does not dictate how he dresses. He would be much more likely to have items custom made for him in the exact shades and designs he envisions. His sense of style and taste are so refined as to seem innate.
We need to distinguish yet another type, and that is the fop. The fop is not so much a dandy gone wrong, but a clothes horse on steroids. Clothes may be custom, but are marked by a self-concsious, attention-grabbing flamboyance that strikes the observer as being overdone. In terms of personality, the fop would tend to be a buffoon.
They're discussing a related topic on Style Forum that I think the last part of your post has a direct bearing on.
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?p=536352#post536352
The image of the fop I based my ideas on was Hermann Göring, who wore the most outrageous uniforms and even arranged to have himself awarded medals that he had in no way earned. I think there would be little disagreement that by any standard Göring was a fop and not a dandy.
FilmNoirBuff, your last post hit the nail on the head. It is perhaps one of the best definitions of modern dandyism I have yet to find.
Last edited by ernest_is_back (2007-06-08 17:58:44)
Neither has an appealing image for me The Dandy wears clothes to satisfy his conceit, combined with a desire, or need, for attention, while the clothes horse lacks discernment. I like the idea of appreciating and enjoying fine clothes as highly well-crafted works of art. In taking the time to assemble a wardrobe, and putting thought into what you wear each day, even if only to take the dog for a walk or take a trip to the supermarket, you show respect for the makers of the clothes, respect for their products, as well as respect for yourself and for those around you.