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#1 2014-10-14 19:00:13

Diavolo
Member
Posts: 10

To hell with Style Forum and Naples

By way of introduction and inspired by a topic started a year ago by Beestonplace about being "boring",  I present my answer to a friend's query about a new direction I have taken.

This is a rejection really of the dreary Style Forum mantra and their worship of Neapolitania.
SF in my opinion is populated by two groups - those who have no money and no style and those who have a fair bit of money and no style.
While the former present themselves in thrifted monstrosities head to foot the latter are draped in Rubinacci horse blankets and look barely different.
There is a consensus on that forum, which I left years ago (and now only post in the Australian members thread which is more of a group of friends) that the more patterns and colours you can cram around your body the better dressed you are, especially if the colours are as bright as possible. The atrocious shoes have been given a good working over here I see.
Anyway, after many phases of dress I have settled on a formula, much has Beastie, although I do have "my tailor" - albeit MTM and not bespoke. Australian bespoke is something of any oxymoron.

Tell me if I have become boring.


The new suit designs are interesting. They will represent the last phase in a total overhaul of my wardrobe, which has taken me to the brink of sartorial neo conservatism in terms of design and colour.

I have replaced all my cutaway collar shirts with semi spreads from Tom (from Patrick Johnson Tailors) and I am very pleased as I think they suit me better.

The Carminas with the pointier toes have gone to a friend whiłe I have switched to C and J and Loakes ( I know, but I have a thing about them) in a gentler moderate chisel toe.

My ties are all toned down to solids or at the most very restrained small patterns.

With the suits I am now tired of the Neapolitan three roll two thing with wide lapels and the notch sitting almost on top of the shoulder. I have been wearing this cut for about 10 years.

At the moment, like most of us, these are all I have, but for some time I have been contemplating a return to my formative clothing years which were the mid sixties when I was in my teens. It's like Vegemite or The Saint on TV, you can't let go of what you loved growing up - and I don't want to.

Co-incidentally and happily for me, Patrick Johnson have a prototype new block out shortly which will reflect this.

It will be a slimmer lapel genuine two button with a slightly lower notch and a lower buttoning point.

This will be better I think as I need height. The Naples cut with wide lapels and higher buttons broadens me and, especially with too tight pants, makes me look top heavy.

The new cut with a longer deeper and narrower V shape should help.

The pants are being re-designed too, with a higher rise, a single pleat (forward to start with to see how it looks), slightly wider legs and a 4cm instead of 5cm cuff. The high cuff does me no favours, height wise. The pants will also have side adjusters and no belt loops.

None of this is to say I am going for the current horrible skinny everything look. It will be a modern version of the mid sixties staple

Also, I have finally acknowledged what colours I like - and there aren't many as far as suits and jackets are concerned.

I find I rarely reach for colours other than navy followed by...err...navy (and mid grey for suits) so I have come to terms with that, which I believe is the key point in all of this.

This may sound boring but to me it is a process of distilling to an essence the core of what I know I like and am confident wearing all the time.

So I will be getting two lightweight summer suits in navy and mid grey (I have had light grey and charcoal but find them both restricting and hard to accessorise with) as well as two summer navy sport coats - a very lightweight tropical worsted and probably a silk/linen or something with more surface interest, both with three patch pockets.

Winter will be the same with mid weight and heavyweight navy cashmere blazers and two suits - navy chalk flannel and mid grey flannel (in Super160s - gloriously soft).

These things will be worn exclusively with light blue, white and blue and white striped shirts with the above mentioned conservative ties and mixed with black, brown and suede oxfords and loafers.

Elegant simplicity for me can be achieved with a navy suit, light blue shirt, solid navy tie and black shoes. It all lies in the fit and fabric.  You can get an awful lot of combinations out of navy and grey if you vary the ties and so on.

So, boring or just pragmatic?

 

#2 2014-10-14 19:57:25

Jeff Reed
Member
From: Brooklyn, New York
Posts: 991

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples

Maybe boring, but I can relate to some of it. I will probably never again buy a non-solid navy or mid-gray suit again (sport coats are totally different to me and I'll wear a wide variety). I never liked pinstripes on me. Charcoal is way too stark for me. I'd rather give some pattern via the tie or shirt as I find these are more versatile. I also work in a conservative industry with conservative people, and probably always will.

I think a solid suit paired with a solid shirt and a solid tie is not just boring, but doesn't look all that good. Gives me a sombre, or trying-too-hard-for-elegance vibe. That's just my opinion. I've no idea if that would be a widespread opinion.

 

#3 2014-10-14 21:03:36

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples

Diavolo, I admire the simplicity and the fact that you seemingly know exactly what you want.  Must be liberating.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#4 2014-10-14 22:09:55

Diavolo
Member
Posts: 10

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples

 

#5 2014-10-15 06:15:55

Dudley Clarke
Member
Posts: 1211

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples


I came up to see her sometimes.

 

#6 2014-10-15 07:19:49

doghouse
Member
Posts: 5147

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples

I am generally a simplist myself, though I do have some more expressive things. My all time favorite is a deep french blue suit paired with a white shirt and black knit tie, and black wayfarers. I call it my 1960's CIA agent look.


Hide thy infants, hide thy Lady, and hide thy husband, alas they art forcing sexual intercourse upon the entire populace. - Wm Shakespeare

 

#7 2014-10-15 16:14:16

fxh
Big Down Under.
From: Melbourne
Posts: 6159

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples

 

#8 2014-10-15 16:21:29

doghouse
Member
Posts: 5147

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples


Hide thy infants, hide thy Lady, and hide thy husband, alas they art forcing sexual intercourse upon the entire populace. - Wm Shakespeare

 

#9 2014-10-15 16:58:35

fxh
Big Down Under.
From: Melbourne
Posts: 6159

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples

Why  - fang you fairy mush,  doggie

 

#10 2014-10-15 17:02:37

doghouse
Member
Posts: 5147

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples

Always give credit where it's due my friend.


Hide thy infants, hide thy Lady, and hide thy husband, alas they art forcing sexual intercourse upon the entire populace. - Wm Shakespeare

 

#11 2014-10-16 15:25:35

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples

thanks


I LOVE , this foum

 

#12 2014-10-16 18:28:46

Dudley Clarke
Member
Posts: 1211

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples


I came up to see her sometimes.

 

#13 2014-10-17 09:20:13

carpu65
Member
Posts: 1502

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples

 

#14 2014-10-17 09:24:04

carpu65
Member
Posts: 1502

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples

 

#15 2014-10-17 09:52:01

carpu65
Member
Posts: 1502

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples

 

#16 2014-10-17 10:19:49

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#17 2014-10-17 10:31:16

Dudley Clarke
Member
Posts: 1211

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples

Those Dormeuil adverts were something in themselves - and would probably be banned today for 'denigrating women' or some clap-trap.


I came up to see her sometimes.

 

#18 2014-10-17 14:49:15

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples


I LOVE , this foum

 

#19 2014-10-17 15:02:14

Dudley Clarke
Member
Posts: 1211

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples


I came up to see her sometimes.

 

#20 2014-10-17 15:20:41

Diavolo
Member
Posts: 10

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples

Carpu

Thank you very much for the interesting link. I agree the current parody of the 60s style could result in a backlash to the horrors of the 70s but my approach now is to ignore all of these fads and remain comfortable in my own style while I wait for them to slowly fade from view.
As far as solid on solid is concerned, I did not mean to imply this is my ultimate aim or even the most common outfit I wear - just that it can be perceived as elegant, like black tie is, and that this is something rarely understood by those who insist on many colours and patterns all together.
In fact I do occasionally wear solid on solid, but just as often wear small neats, ancient madder or wool challis ties with subtle blue and white striped shirts.
The suits are always navy or grey although I do like Air Force blue and PoW checks.
The clothing worn by Patrick McGoohan in the sixties series  Dangerman (Secret Agent in the US) is a good representation of what I like. A Google image search can take you there. The series is available from Amazon but is all in black and white.
The Tonik ads also express pretty much my favoured look. Apart from the lines, the ads themselves are a true joy.
I used to love them when I subscribed to GQ and Esquire in the '60s - when those magazines were actually good.

Last edited by Diavolo (2014-10-17 16:15:02)

 

#21 2014-10-17 16:30:10

carpu65
Member
Posts: 1502

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples

 

#22 2014-10-17 16:58:11

carpu65
Member
Posts: 1502

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples

 

#23 2014-10-17 17:28:00

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples

grey stripes are HELL and fpr sinenrds


I LOVE , this foum

 

#24 2014-10-18 11:56:06

Chévere
Member
From: Baltimore
Posts: 856

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples


Cógelo suave, pero cógelo.

 

#25 2014-10-19 01:12:08

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 14333

Re: To hell with Style Forum and Naples


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

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