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#76 2006-09-25 22:43:40

jeff
Member
Posts: 50

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

Could you explain what a "reinforced" 2x1 is?

 

#77 2006-09-26 13:43:50

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#78 2006-09-27 06:23:40

Ziegfield
Member
From: Britain
Posts: 142

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

 

#79 2006-09-27 11:44:16

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

It's closer to reality to say one, even one who makes good cloth and has done so for decades, cannot tell how a fabric is going to perform with certainty without doing an analysis on it or seeing it wear over time. There just aren't any guarantees in the upward direction, youre really minimizing your down side.

One military historian made a revelation a while back that the elite troops in the pre standing armies period (before 1645 in England say) arent necessarily heroic, theyre just less likely to lose discipline or panic than the others.

It's also about purpose. A lot of my tailor's customers are men who buy a dozen suits every season and discard them after a while and long before theyve even become respectable. It's the sad truth again that custom tailoring isn't about taste or enjoyment but about one upsmanship.

 

#80 2006-09-28 01:08:15

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

Last edited by Horace (2006-09-28 01:09:31)


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#81 2006-09-28 03:28:12

amelie
Member
Posts: 31

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

 

#82 2006-09-28 04:55:03

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

Imagine you have a 150's 2x1 cloth, and a cloth of the same weight  made of shorter, 100's fibers, twisted 2X2. Is the 2X2 more durable and expensive to produce in this example? I tend to think the answer is no... and that ultimately length of fibers and how many of them are weaved per unit area are the deciding factors. But better not to dwell too much on the numbers, best is to follow FNB's strategy, go out there, feel the cloth, and ask the good tailors about the cloth's long-term performance.

Last edited by Cruz Diez (2006-09-28 05:03:40)

 

#83 2006-09-28 07:57:39

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

 

#84 2006-09-28 10:50:06

Will
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 239

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

"Is the 2X2 more durable and expensive to produce in this example?"

Durable and expensive to produce may not be compatible objectives in this case. I believe the 2x2 will have more abrasion resistance.

The premium cost of the raw 150's material would make the cloth more expensive even if less is used.


Will's thoughts on classic men's clothing
http://www.asuitablewardrobe.net/

 

#85 2006-09-28 11:02:13

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

 

#86 2006-09-29 05:59:21

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

 

#87 2006-10-07 06:26:29

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

 

#88 2006-10-07 08:22:14

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

 

#89 2006-10-08 04:05:59

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

I was just looking at the Harrison's cashmere.

I liked this Harrison's cord I saw.  And one other company, I think it was W. Bill but maybe it was someone else.
I wrote them down some place.  The cords were marked 16 oz but they didn't seem that substantial really.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#90 2006-10-12 13:29:02

ShirtFan
Member
From: London, UK
Posts: 10

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

This is a informative thread and should keep going. What maker carries the best choices for midnight blue smoking jacket cloth?

 

#91 2006-10-13 07:25:11

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

 

#92 2006-11-01 11:20:31

Ziegfield
Member
From: Britain
Posts: 142

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

Can a member here opine on fresco cloth? I wanted to know if it was hard wearing or required a second pair of trousers.

Thanks in advance

Ziggy

 

#93 2006-11-01 12:36:35

Will
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 239

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

Last edited by Will (2006-11-01 12:38:03)


Will's thoughts on classic men's clothing
http://www.asuitablewardrobe.net/

 

#94 2006-11-01 21:19:18

Ziegfield
Member
From: Britain
Posts: 142

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

 

#95 2006-11-01 21:27:35

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#96 2006-11-02 01:35:29

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

Loro Piana is a large company with a vast selection of cloth, with qualties ranging from so-so to excellent. While I don't find this ideal, they produce for different levels in the market.  I would recommend not to overlook Loro Piana, some of their cloths are comparable or even better that  Barbera or Lesser (fleeing the stage to avoid being hit by a raging crowd).

 

#97 2006-11-02 06:40:17

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

 

#98 2006-11-02 12:30:46

Will
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 239

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

Barbera makes world class cloth. Loro Piana makes world class cashmere. Unfortunately, they also sell other stuff.


Will's thoughts on classic men's clothing
http://www.asuitablewardrobe.net/

 

#99 2006-11-02 12:34:23

Will
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 239

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth


Will's thoughts on classic men's clothing
http://www.asuitablewardrobe.net/

 

#100 2006-11-02 18:56:20

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

Last edited by Marc Grayson (2006-11-02 19:11:57)


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

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