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#1 2018-03-25 07:16:57

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

1990ies "Trad" casual/sportswear picking up the 1950ies U.S. graphics

Do you tremember? The heydays of Diesel, Replay, Chevignon? 1993-1998, with pre-aged "baseball" or "pilot" leather jackets and the ubiquitous brown cardboard labels attached printed with 1950ies ironic advertising?

Not exactly the serious "I wish my parents had sent me to public/boarding school" attitude that "prep" labels such as PRL, Hilfiger etc showed. More playful, Italian.

Thoughts and pics highly appreciated.


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#2 2018-03-25 07:18:50

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Re: 1990ies "Trad" casual/sportswear picking up the 1950ies U.S. graphics

A nice case study on Diesel by INSEAD

https://cases.insead.edu/diesel/documents/4948-Diesel-1-CSW.pdf


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#3 2018-03-25 07:22:15

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Re: 1990ies "Trad" casual/sportswear picking up the 1950ies U.S. graphics

From the INSEAD case study:

"Starting in 1991, Maurizio Marchiori, the newly-appointed advertising director, developed a global branding campaign in-house with the help of Paradiset, a Swedish advertising agency. The campaign appropriated the “products make better living” theme popular among advertisers in the 50s and turned it on its head in the “Diesel for Successful Living” campaign. Diesel’s vision of consumer paradise was to be interpreted ironically; the standard promise of “success” was exaggerated, made absurd, even mocked. Serious themes seemed to be lurking everywhere in the adverts but were undercut by a final admission that it was all just a joke."

Well there you go. I have difficulties imagining an American brand to fool around with the American dream like that.


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#4 2018-03-25 07:31:18

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Re: 1990ies "Trad" casual/sportswear picking up the 1950ies U.S. graphics

https://www.nytimes.com/1993/02/22/business/media-business-advertising-sell-expensive-jeans-mix-poetry-film-noir-with.html

"..."in the retro-forward genre" popularized by rival marketers of expensive ($50 to $70) jeans like Diesel and Chevignon, featuring images revived from the 1940's and 1950's in more colorful, contemporary settings."

1990ies were the days when these two guys with quiffs and Jeames Dean eyebrows were big, from that Beverly Hills 91822 series.


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#5 2018-03-25 07:43:52

Acton_Baby
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From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: 1990ies "Trad" casual/sportswear picking up the 1950ies U.S. graphics

seems also to be influenced by the northern European raggare and Italian paninaro scenes in the early/mid 80s.
The more retro the look and styling the better it sold.


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#6 2018-03-25 07:52:21

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Re: 1990ies "Trad" casual/sportswear picking up the 1950ies U.S. graphics

Yes that is true - and that was our lifestyle way back then, with some added House / Acid intermezzi.


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#7 2018-03-25 08:00:44

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: 1990ies "Trad" casual/sportswear picking up the 1950ies U.S. graphics

The Chevignon sweats , dungarees and chucks look in particular ,
I think I would have seen that combination first in Ibiza about 89/90 as it seemed to be the uniform of the 'international tourist thieves' selling drugs around the beach bars.


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#8 2018-03-25 08:02:28

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Re: 1990ies "Trad" casual/sportswear picking up the 1950ies U.S. graphics

Yeah and Best Company / Iceberg.


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#9 2018-03-25 08:08:10

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: 1990ies "Trad" casual/sportswear picking up the 1950ies U.S. graphics

oh Iceberg, how very Rimini 92.


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#10 2018-03-25 08:41:06

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Re: 1990ies "Trad" casual/sportswear picking up the 1950ies U.S. graphics

And then all "young fashion" shops had 1950ies props like fuel pumps and refrigerators.


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#11 2018-03-25 10:28:11

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 3089

Re: 1990ies "Trad" casual/sportswear picking up the 1950ies U.S. graphics


Rocking traditional, current and classic Italian Ivy since 2011.

 

#12 2018-03-25 11:51:29

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Re: 1990ies "Trad" casual/sportswear picking up the 1950ies U.S. graphics

Cue the snowboard sweatshirt a l a Chiemsee with the back hem longer than the front one.

Or anyone remember Connemara or Kandisman knitwear?


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