I love my AO, bought because there is no hook on the arms as I wear then on my scoot and the hook pushes hard behind of your ear on Davida helmets as they are very form fitting. I think I paid $50 for mine years ago on eBay - before folk started to pick up on them again.
I read somewhere that Don Draper is to blame for the price hike.
Just googled that... wasn't even aware of it until i saw the results. Kind of makes sense, style press would have been all over that. Mine came in a really basic plastic case, very functional, no frills.
I had a pair of wayfarers from 1989 to 1999 then left them by the pool outside my apartment for a short while to run inside and when I came back they were gone. My then GF after some heavy hinting got me a pair of AO square aviators with the bayonet arms for my birthday in November 1999. They cost around $40 and lasted only a matter of months before the black paint on the frames started corroding and the hinges turned green with oxidation. The hinges also became very loose.
This may have been the start of my absolutely ridiculous sunglasses obsession (approx 30 pairs) but some time after this I got the Randolph version. Now AO and Randolph seem to be in a fight as they both lay claim to being the “original†or the “genuine†similar to how Victorinox and Wenger used to fight about Swiss Army knives until Victorinox solved the issue by buying Wenger!
The Randolphs were quite a bit more expensive - Ray Ban territory of over $100 straight retail - but the quality was palpably better. They guarantee their hinges and joints and throw in a nice little kit of screwdrivers and spare screws. I don’t reach for the square aviators very often but like Tomas says I got them for use on the bike thinking they’d work well under my Chinese Air Force helmet. The problem is that above 50 mph the wind gets under them and makes my eyes stream so much I’m almost blinded. Still I was impressed enough in their everyday function to get a pair of RE Concordes (traditional tear drop aviator shape but in a smaller size) and Crew Chief (slightly rounder teardrop shape with spring hinges which is always a nice touch). The lenses are glass and very clear. Frames and hinges much more robust than the AO ones.
I did see that Don Draper was wearing them in the earlier seasons. Later on you see him in a gold pair of those like John Lennon wore in the Beatles’ Holland Park videos, similar to Ray Ban Olympian Deluxe II. I wondered if that would shoot up the price and/or demand but haven’t seen many in the wild.
Anyway sorry for the digression from loafers but when sunglasses get mentioned I have to jump in!
I don’t do tassels. I have loafers by Shipton (navy suede), Meermin (polo suede), Cheaney (chestnut grain) Crockett and Jones (tan grain) and had a pair of AE Cavanaughs which looked great but I couldn’t get away with the weird last so need to sell them. All half strap pennies, no tassels!
Last edited by Chet (2020-06-11 07:49:35)
^^ Finally, a kindred spirit. A fellow member of the No Tassels club.
/\ I'm in the club too these days, I've been renewing my membership since the late '80s .....
it's not that I think ill of the Tassellers or their icon, it's just that I personally do without them and have done for quite a while
it's just a style I don't wear but have felt the need to recognize here in light of the history of the style
Can't not wear tassels. Maybe it's a personality flaw.
I have an all leather heel and sole pair of tassel Weejuns mid late 60s I think, which I don't wear often but like occasionally as they are that wonderful old matt finish.
Only other pair are some Paul Smith Brooks Bros style ones which I got at a sample sale, but think I may well sell off on eBay (though I did wear them for my wedding).
I still have the cordovan pair ... from 1985, in regular use until 1989, when I changed to a more plain penny loafer style for those times I needed to wear the low vamp for comfort ,,, still Aldens, one pair from Brooks Brothers, one pair from the late great McCreedy & Schreiber shoe store of NYC
the Brooks cordovan tassels now are packed away but will one day be unearthed, I use them as house slippers now
I came, I saw, I mused, I took the plunge. Well, at £49.99 post free what would you have done? Made in the USA Dexter penny loafers. At least they claim to be made in the USA and the Ebay seller will feel the full fury of my what'd'you-call-it if they're not.
Much as I love my Florsheim PTBs - which have just been taken out for a buffing - and my cordo wingtips, my back now requires a nice slip-on (no faffing with laces). Besides, I miss my old Sebago. The Bass I had were nothing much (three pairs) and Paraboot I never could get on with. Ditto Weston - too posh, too European, too heavy. I'm not a hundred per cent in agreement when JS says Bass are basically slippers, but I do now have a slightly more casual approach to loafers in general (not having gone the Alden route).
^ Have they got the pinking around the vamp?
I always liked that little detail on Dexter loafers.
I'm not sure, Woof. I can't seem to bring up the original photographs. Should be here by Thursday, though, so I'll take a look and report back.
I'm going to be a party pooper but I just cannot appreciate black loafers. I agree though that vintage Dexter look pretty good (from the photos - as an ivy novice I've not seen any in the flesh).
Andy B, if you see any Rancourts in your size for a reasonable price then don't hesitate. Not only are they very nice looking, they're very well made, so they take care of your feet and back more than most loafers do.
Rancourt look fine but I would be averse to paying those US-UK shipping prices. I was about to buy a shirt last night with an £18 shipping cost - which turned into £25 at checkout. I demurred.
The Dexter are described as 'burgundy' and will perhaps be similar to a pair I bought at Russell Street for resale a good many years ago.
You won't be disappointed by the Dexters, probably similar to the old time Weejuns, only more comfortable. As Yuca says, Rancourts are a step up in quality (and price) the leather on them is sumptuous.
In spite of their currently poor reputation, I did own three pairs of Bass. This was partly because I could buy them in a local 'trendy' shoe shop: Bass and only Bass when it came to loafers. Then, in spite of Yuca's reservations, I did wear black Sebago and liked them well enough. I also bought white (can't remember the make), but couldn't really pull off the look. The Weston went to our old poster Moose - who may still be getting some wear out of them. A 'posh' loafer, unliked by some on here twelve or so years ago, which I thought looked okay when worn with L.L.Bean jeans (cheap) and a navy Brooks cashmere v-neck (not so cheap) and, I suppose, a navy polo shirt or blue or white button-down.
Bass are awful now, my last pair I bought must've nearly 20 years ago (a black pair of Venetians). I'd gone back to work Saturdays at Harrington and with my staff discount they were cheap, I wouldn't have paid full price. Prior to that I bought possibly the last of the made in the USA Bass at Russell St. Again Venetians but burgundy this time. The rest of my Bass collection was bought in the 80's & 90's.
I have two pairs of grain weejuns from about five years ago in sale. Okay for the odd thing but I wouldn't trust them for extensive wear.
Agreed. Just for kicking about in: trips to the supermarket etc. But should a loafer be too smart? Some of our American friends (Patrick, I think) treat them as just something they slip on to go to the bottom of the garden/take out the garbage etc. rather than as a slightly exotic shoe to be worn with, say, 501s. Shaun at 'Wild' wears black Bass. They look good on him. But the more recent examples do look 'plastic'. I'd have polished up the Barker pair I saw the other weekend (had they fitted), because they seemed decent. Bass I never really bothered with, except for a single repair job (which they fucked up).
Back in the 80's I bought two pairs of pebble grain loafers (one in black & one in brown) by Buffalo Creek, bought them from Harrington, they were a bit cheaper than Bass at the time. Great value for money as I still have the Brown pair, probably my favourite pair of loafers. Black ones bit the dust years ago.
JS sold me a pair of Buffalo Creek (which must have been too small for me if memory serves me well, which it probably doesn't) around, oh, fourteen years ago, together with some Bass and Dexter. I was running an 'Americana' stall at the time as well as selling on Ebay. The Bass went quickly (as did all Baracuta jackets), but not the others. Must have been too, as Woof would put it, 'under the radar'. Vintage Fred Perry jumpers and some Sta-Prest also sold like hot cakes. Warm-up jackets were difficult to shift. My favourite sale was a jacket Lloyd Johnson sold me which then went to a teddy boy who played drums in some revivalist group. He actually came round to the house to try it on. Nice as pie. I did not mention having my nose broken by his brethren back in '79.