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#1 2020-03-05 10:26:53

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Raincoat Musings

The raincoat ... what a joyous garment it is, essential equipment for the 'flaneur' whose sole purpose is to stroll through the city with no particular purpose, no matter what the weather.

Since we've had the wettest February on record in the UK mine have all had some exercise.

I have a few in my collection; a khaki Grenfell Balmacaan, a stone colour London Fog with a zip in furry lining - nice when it's a bit chilly, a navy blue Aquascutum Aqua 5, a double breasted Burberry's trench (possibly a fake but a very good one if it is). Last, but not least, an old green Dunn & Co single breasted knee length which I picked in a charity shop for a paltry sum. They all get worn.

But the best mac colour has to be a slightly grubby Olive Green.

What raincoats do you have and what colour would you go for if you were only allowed to have one?


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#2 2020-03-05 11:04:40

mhalat
Member
Posts: 381

Re: Raincoat Musings

1 x Navy Blue Barbour Beaufort - purchased at a charity shop in Teesside. Lived in it throughout my 20s, unsuitable for rainwear as it has more holes than a swiss cheese now, but I refuse to have it fixed.

1 x Sage Green Barbour Beaufort - Christmas gift from my folks. Later bought a liner for it on a 50% discount. Gets worn regularly.

1 x Khaki Mackintosh, made by Mackintosh Ireland - impulse purchase from OC, basically perfect. Wear it more with businesswear, but also enjoy it with a shetty and some cords.

 

#3 2020-03-05 13:43:02

IvebeentoDuluth
Member
Posts: 27

Re: Raincoat Musings

Last edited by IvebeentoDuluth (2020-03-05 13:43:33)


Is that a popped collar or are you just happy to see me?

 

#4 2020-03-05 14:42:30

Berkeley_Breathes
Member
From: Crabapple Cove, ME
Posts: 4519

Re: Raincoat Musings


"The only comment a gentleman’s outfit should generate is that he is properly dressed for the occasion" - Calvin Trillin

 

#5 2020-03-06 03:06:55

Sid Ford
Member
Posts: 637

Re: Raincoat Musings

Navy London Fog (with a saucy red removable wool lining)

Khaki John Simons (no lining)

 

#6 2020-03-08 06:39:27

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Re: Raincoat Musings


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#7 2020-03-08 14:35:48

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1268

Re: Raincoat Musings

I have a load of Macs/single breasted trench coats acquired over the years by various brands.  There is a rail up in my loft that I need to go through and send some to charity. It also has multiple Wolsey Car Coats, casual rubber rain coats and the like up there.  I used to like Jaeger when it was still the original company, with great quality at the price with their famed use of their own fabrics and patterns. I had a load of theirs in stone, blue and green.  I have some ones in such as herringbone (with button out liner and storm/gun flap) and Prince of Wales Check from T.M. Lewin (plus some cream/blue) that were excellent quality.  I know we are tempted to go up market and I haven't been near T.M.Lewin for a decade, but those macs are excellent. These were all bought a few years back, perhaps around a decade or more but individually don't get huge use so still in good condition.

I really do like wearing a mac over a sport coat/blazer so the number I have are of different weights and lengths to reflect the seasons - before moving to wool car coats at the coldest time (I have a heavy weight black one by Barbour that I have never seen by them since that is perfect, blue ones, peacoats etc).  It seems writing this - i do like a coat.  But then I'm out on business almost every working day.  My wife is a wizard at shopping and tracks such as Gloverall site where there are often bargains in their outlet, she got me two mac style car coats really inexpensively that I use for non-work walking around.  I do recommend keeping an eye on Gloverall and the macs by Dufflecoatsuk are good too (made in UK).

I hadn't bought a mac or car coat for at least five years when the itch to get a high quality green mac took hold.  I checked John Simons and Grenfell as my choices when after extensive searches online (such as SavyRow and TweedsMan Vintage etc) and in shops my wife found a perfect new-old-stock short Acquascutum mac in olive green. They do not make this anymore in that colour but there was one snag - although perfect and unused, it was absolutely huge in size.

I was all for trying to sell it on and keep looking, but she sent it off the wonderous ladies in a tiny local shop who do all my adjustments. After a fitting they got to work and it is now perfect size - they did everything for me, sides, shoulders, arms and said it was a labour of love for them.
With all the work the Mac has cost me £200, it looks new and certainly has never been worn once.  I'm delighted.  John Simons equivalent is £350 and Grenfall £500 or more (as is a new Acquascutum).

I'm away on business but happy to put up photos when back around at home end of next week onwards.

I haven't bought a coat for at least five years apart from the Grenfell harringtons last year, this Acquascutum mac should see me out now I guess.
I'm buying far less these days, there's little I need these days.  On ebay too there seems to be an endless array of Ivy style sport jackets turning up inexpensively for a tenner or so these days - so I have everything I need on that front too to my surprise. The wonderful ladies in the local tiny shop can sort out sleeves and fit for me and I can often have a perfect new 3/2 full Ivy sport jacket including the adjustments for around £30-£35.  I get the feeling there are a lot of collections being put up for sale these days on ebay.  I don't know how such as RL ever sell a jacket at or near full price, wait a week or two and a previous season's model will often appear for a tiny amount.  I've got RL made in Italy 3/2 sport coats from a few years back that seem fundamentally unused for £10 multiple times in the last year.

Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2020-03-08 14:40:54)

 

#8 2020-03-08 15:55:09

Rod
Member
From: Florida
Posts: 24

Re: Raincoat Musings

Why are so many raincoats in dull colours? The vast majority are navy and beige, with various shades of tan, taupe, olive, sage etc.
I have a beige Harry Palmer type Mac i got for $30 but would love something more vivid. I remember in early 2009 there was a Hugo Boss spread in GQ with a fella in a scarlet red lightweight nylon single breasted raincoat with ‘trenchy’ details (sleeve and shoulder straps, belt), worn over a dark blue suit. It looked great and I was on a mission to get it ... till I found out it cost a ridiculous $600. I tracked it for months, they went on sale to a slightly less ridiculous $400 and change then disappeared. Ever since I’ve been looking for something similar - in scarlet red or electric blue or ... anything to brighten up a dull day. The nearest I’ve seen is the Burberry red trenches which are also priced way too high for the handful of times a year I might need a raincoat. But I still despair at the acceptance that seems to run throughout the raincoat making businesses that dull colours only are allowed.


Check this out: www.rodsmodblog.wordpress.com

 

#9 2020-03-09 09:45:39

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1268

Re: Raincoat Musings

Mackintosh is now doing its iconic mac in a wide variety of colours including light blue, though the prices are high and the widest variety is in the women's range. Others will likely copy.

Manchester based Private White do make a ventile burgundy mac at a third of the price of Mackintosh. They used to be more expensive and it might be worth a look.
https://www.privatewhitevc.com/products/the-ventile%C2%AE-mac?variant=31438360150077

Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2020-03-09 09:47:00)

 

#10 2020-03-09 13:27:26

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Re: Raincoat Musings

I've looked at the Private White stuff, its well put together and great that its Made in England. There's some excellent mac colours although probably not avant garde enough for the Rodster.


I couldn't entertain a mac with a zip though, that's designed to appeal to someone under 35 who's slightly self conscious about wearing a proper coat.


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#11 2020-03-12 12:49:30

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1268

Re: Raincoat Musings

I agree, I do not like macs with a zip.

Gloverall put a load of their car coat macs on ebay yesterday in bright colours. Generally just clear some back stop, so when gone - they do not reappear.

 

#12 2020-06-06 17:33:43

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Raincoat Musings

Nice thread, chums.  Love the ol' raincoat.  Had a navy London fog short one when a kid.  Got a Burberry double-breast when I graduated from college.  I still have it somewhere.  When purchasing it, I think I got the wrong size because it was always way too huge (I'm a 42 and thankfully have remained such - in some years -- just, but anyhoot, ol' diet is relatively constant these days).  Has the zip out vest lining.  Just seemed to much.

I much prefer a used single in tan saw at some Episco charity shop (used to be among the best) that I picked up a few years later.  Older, all cotton, fly front,  Nice.  My favorite. Still use to this day.  Doesn't repel water.  But that's OK.   The other I inherited was an old Brooks rain coat.  English made.  Don't know who makes it.  Heavy, single.  Been in closet for a few decades. 

I remember discussions years ago -- May be a review of John T Molloy's Dress for Success book in WSJ or NYT or somewhere with a discussion of colors of rain jacket and what they signified.  I think the navy one looks cool.  But tan always seemed to me the most traditional and the black coat never appealed.  There's a place in Scotland that makes the navy rain coat -- friend picked one up, they look fabulous.

But at some point, I started trying to pare down what I had. Couldn't do it with ties.  Always kept them and odd jackets but rain coats, hell, I'd rather have one good one than several.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#13 2020-06-07 09:21:01

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: Raincoat Musings

I do remember enjoying reading somewhere, maybe in Fussell, that black raincoats were very KGB, which was funny as hell

definitely agree with Horace on the fly-front single-breasted cotton model, that's my favorite too, one of the quintessential Ivy items

unfortunately the good ones are very expensive


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#14 2021-09-20 03:07:30

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: Raincoat Musings

I wonder if Rod found what he was looking for.  I still prefer English autumnal colours.

 

#15 2021-09-24 05:25:55

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: Raincoat Musings

Just picked up a 1960s, olive, fly-fronted raincoat for £15.  Just walked through the door of the first charity shop on the high street five minutes walk away.  First time I've done this in years.  Made In England (or so it says); all that nice lettering on the labels (including the cleaning instructions); cuff buttons are missing but there are ladies who attend to that kind of detail.  I can't think now whether I bought that coat years back in Nottingham.  Pretty certain I saw one at Russell Street around 2008.  John used to nip in and out of charity shops.  If it's good enough for him it's good enough for me.  Maybe not Grenfell quality (or even Made In England) Burberrys' but certainly worth the price of a basic takeaway.

 

#16 2021-09-24 05:36:55

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: Raincoat Musings

A quick browse suggests they were made in Manchester and had links with Baracuta.  Mod connotations (no longer, I suspect, even the 'mods' over forty years ago were only doing parkas, pork pie hats, FP polo shirts and Hush Puppies).  How many little old ladies went blind threading the needle in Manchester's clothing quarter so that the PWMs on here could have endless debates about Baracuta heritage/quality?

 

#17 2021-09-24 05:51:33

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: Raincoat Musings

Good find. I managed to find an Acquascutum navy raincoat in a charity shop. Had a made in Japan tag which surprised me. It's a bit on the long side (just below the knee) but I couldn't resist it. I wore it to a family party in a social centre and one cousin took the piss asking me if I was on my way to school. Mind you he used to  mail orders his shoes from Next.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#18 2021-09-24 06:01:04

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: Raincoat Musings

Robbie, I used to have a navy, USA-made raincoat which looked as square as all-get-out.  I used to think of it (don't ask me why, it was nothing more than a whim) as the FBI coat, to go with the black Walkover.  2RS might call it 'marginal' but it just looked very American in my bleak northern outpost.  I was doubtless already going for the crew cut at the time, having experimented with the Caan astronaut look previously (severe!).  My wife now uses a 4 setting on my with a Wahl, thus saving tedious trips to the barber. 
I spent a fortune on USA-made clothing around 2007-10.  Jackets I maybe wore once.  Madness.  Very pleased with the Dhobi.

 

#19 2021-09-24 09:29:58

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: Raincoat Musings

Olive is a fine colour for a raincoat. Cream or similar is best.

Talking of raincoat musings, I noticed a few years ago that in every single film I've seen that Lino Ventura appears in, he sports a cream sb raincoat in at least one scene. Often he wears it throughout the film. And it looks like he has a different one for each film. He was obviously a fan.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#20 2021-09-24 13:00:14

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: Raincoat Musings

I should like to see some more of those superb continental movies, even though, for a pleb like me, much gets lost in translation.  'Rififi' is something of a favorite, as is 'The Wages Of Fear'.  Then there are all those foxy actresses...  Michele Morgan, the divine Monica Vitti...  What was that film she made with Richard Harris (wearing a shabby raincoat?) where the fruit on a stall changes colour...

 

#21 2021-09-25 13:33:16

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: Raincoat Musings

Rififi is good but, for me, it's not brilliant. My faves, and well worth getting if you can find them: Touchez pas au grisbi; Plein soleil; Classe tous risques; Bob le flambeur; Le rouge est mis; Le doulos; Tirez sur le pïaniste; 125, rue Montmartre; and L'Étrange Monsieur Steve. Incidentally, 125, rue Montmartre is notable in that Lino Ventura doesn't play the part of a complete psychotic bastard.

I don't speak French so maybe a lot gets lost in translation for me too. Finding some of them with English subtitles was a challenge. Others are easily available.

If Bop were here he might have a few to add to the list.

Last edited by Yuca (2021-09-25 13:33:41)


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#22 2021-09-26 05:20:40

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1268

Re: Raincoat Musings

Now the forum is back and reading this thread, my post about the olive Aquascutum mac was just before the first lock down and I have not worn that coat since I had it adjusted.

In the interim Aquascutum itself has also finally and fully gone too, with only the name and patterns bought for use in China only.

Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2021-09-26 05:21:07)

 

#23 2021-09-26 05:26:49

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: Raincoat Musings

Remember 'Backlash'?  Up a long flight of stairs.  They used to sell a bit of Aquascutum, amidst the whiffy Harris tweed jackets and naff denim.  I once had a lovely soft Italian jacket out of there for about £10.  Wool and cashmere, I'd reckon.  I do miss old Celia and her camp brother, Frank.  Not much in the way of 'Ivy' in there but it had a lovely olde-worlde atmosphere and some very good quality heavy overcoats for between £60 and £80.

 

#24 2021-09-26 05:44:50

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1268

Re: Raincoat Musings

Yes in the 80s I used to go there constantly for Perrys and other bits.

Then it took up the old Selectadisc which for me was very odd. Both gone now.

There was a great vintage place in the 80s above a cafe opposite Vic Centre. It was huge and had ace pieces.

 

#25 2021-09-26 05:51:26

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: Raincoat Musings

There was also a place that used to stick a board outside more or less opposite one side of the Council House.  You went up lots of stairs to the top floor.  The owner - for reasons best known to himself - was a collector of G9s.  They would trade with you.  Probably gone by now.

 

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