He seems to get mentioned only in passing: the early(ish) continental influence (well, Italian, no?).  It sometimes appears to me that there is a slight conflict of outlook when the traditional (circa the Korean War?) USA look arrives in London and the continental/Italian look comes into the mix.  Only a subjective impression to be sure, but: colourful jumpers competing with 'approved' Ivy colours?  I brought some quite lairy jumpers back from Italy some years ago (Dickies seemed massive in Puglia, which puzzled me as the chap who mends our washing machine wears them); they did not stay the distance.  Maybe, though, had I been twenty years younger and been an adventurous post-mod revivalist who knows what might have come of it?  Wearing an orange sweater, as someone once said, will not make you look like Frank Sinatra.