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#1 2021-09-25 03:03:23

A Fine Sadness
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Posts: 3009

Leather

I've just been reading a rather iffy book on Northern Soul.  It mentioned - and I remember them well - hard-looking lads wearing long leather coats.  Mods?  Now, by the end of the 70s the only blokes I knew who still appeared around town dressed in this way had definite far right associations.  So, does anyone favour leather other than for shoes and belts?  The Shooman might be able to give an answer to this one - anyone else?  Yes, I know there are other options for around the waist, but - maybe it's a stupid question - did it ever tick any 'Ivy' boxes?

 

#2 2021-09-25 11:44:55

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: Leather

Nice flying jacket available at JS.

 

#3 2021-09-25 12:35:13

Yuca
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Posts: 8568

Re: Leather

Sting's leather coat in Quad was a bit naff, although perhaps not in the same league as his 'dancing' skills. Shaft, however, looked like the coolest man on the planet for a while. As I recall Marvin has a similar item to Shaft's on the back of What's Going On.

Either way, no ivy connections whatsoever and I much prefer wool or cotton when it comes to a full length overcoat. I agree though, those old flying jackets are nice. The prices they go for, however, are not quite so appealing.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#4 2021-09-25 19:33:36

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: Leather

Not exactly ivy but definitely leather: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zoE-kdBCjw


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#5 2021-09-26 02:16:46

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: Leather

I only did a slight Jimmy Finlayson on seeing the price.  Probably not bad considering the Rickson offerings on Ebay.  Yet, if you had a couple of thousand pounds to spend at Chiltern Street, what would you go for?  I expect it will sell - but to whom?  We'll probably never know.  Does this kind of kit count as 'generic Americana'?  I suppose not.  I think there was some bod on here about a dozen years ago who became quite an enthusiast for Rickson.  Personally, I just saw it as Japanese retro nonsense.  No harm in it but certainly bordering on cosplay.

 

#6 2021-09-26 02:38:52

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: Leather

Never thought of leather coats as Ivy. I have one in the wardrobe and every time I go to send it to the charity shop I try it on and it fits me perfectly and I put it back in the closet. Must be 25 years old.
At school when the boys wore fly fronted Mac's the girls were wearing leather jackets/ coats in various colours and they looked good.
I was too old and in the wrong location for Northern soul but I always thought how great was the music and how disappointing the dress sense of the dancers was. The dance routines seemed a bit iffy to me as well.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#7 2021-09-26 04:01:30

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1275

Re: Leather

A fine sadness - the long black leather coat look in Northern Soul was a late 60s thing that carried on in the scene and would be tailored with your own details. Which book are you reading and why is it naff?  There are some very good books on the scene, which does have some brief unintended Ivy clothing crossover in the early stage of Twisted Wheel/Catacombs etc.

 

#8 2021-09-26 04:49:11

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: Leather

David Nowell; 'Too Darn Soulful'.  He gets details wrong and there are too many snaps of scooter boys. 

The chap chipping into the film on Wigan (YouTube viewing) makes me smile when he says, Yeah, there were lots of girls - but as friends.  Where I lived - a grubby Midland Railway suburb - wherever there was Northern Soul randiness was in the air.  There was much copping off and the first teenage pregnancies I was aware of.  We were fifteen or thereabouts.  Not too much of a drug scene for us.  That came later. 

I take Robbie's point about some of the clothing, but the girls often looked very fine indeed.

 

#9 2021-09-26 04:57:39

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1275

Re: Leather

Yes that was an early book. Better than the dry academic ones but not the best. I'm stopping buying any more books on the scene now, which are mostly just for people's memories (such as the last night of Wigan one or the Mr M's one coming soon)  There's not really much new ground to cover and they just collect dust.

Over the last few years I've given many dozens of books on music, clothes, subculture, design etc to charity. Many of these I paid £25 or so for then skim read a couple of times.

Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2021-09-26 04:58:18)

 

#10 2021-09-26 05:06:33

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: Leather

The 'Wheel' was probably of greater interest, and a lady friend once took me to look at what had once been 'The Torch'.  Now a car-park? 

As far as I know, I'll be in Nottingham on Tuesday, around Hockley to begin with and probably going to that French place just up from Slab Square for lunch.

 

#11 2021-09-26 05:46:32

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1275

Re: Leather

There is a good book on the Wheel by Keith Rylatt with excellent photos of the post Mod / pre Northern Soul look

Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2021-09-26 05:47:26)

 

#12 2021-09-26 10:07:48

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: Leather

There has also been a debate over sheepskin coats as part of the look.  Personally I think a lot depends on the quality of the coat, who is wearing it, why and where.  No-one would want to look like a Fourth Division football manager or one of the chaps you see waiting for the pub to open.  There's an illustration somewhere of an American student's standard-kit wardrobe with - surprise surprise - a sheepskin coat for those North American winters.  There is also a well-known photograph of JS wearing one.  Taken a fair few years ago.

 

#13 2021-09-26 14:25:05

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1275

Re: Leather

Yes I know that photo. Seems sensible in genuinely freezing weather but I would go for a wool car coat instead.

 

#14 2021-09-26 20:28:15

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: Leather

Car coats are possibly top of my ivy you dislike list. The joy of a decent overcoat is its length. Sheepskins are a little better but I can't imagine myself ever owning one. And I'm an overcoat fanatic.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#15 2021-09-26 20:29:24

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: Leather

Actually I love my peacoat which is the same length as a car coat, so there must be another reason I can't stand them. Maybe because they're hideous?


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#16 2021-09-27 02:35:10

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1275

Re: Leather

When I say car coat, I basically mean a mac style coat in wool. The ones I have are all the same length as a mac (mid leg).  I don't wear anything with a funnel neck. So these are like a Mac and may have front page pockets or side pockets (or occasionally both).  Some have a zip, some don't. But the form I refer to is a 'mac in wool' essentially.

 

#17 2021-09-27 09:47:05

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: Leather

Surely a full length overcoat is in wool and the same length as a raincoat?


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

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