Alan Paine originally manufactured in Godalming, Surrey. There was a ‘factory shop’ in the town that sadly closed a few years ago. Luckily I got some nice pieces in there while it was still going.
I paid a visit to Chiltern Street yesterday.
One of the few warm sunny days of this year so it was bit weird looking at Autumnal colours and merchandise.
Firstly, what was in stock?
The Vetra needle cord jackets and suits look very good and with the addition of a vent they come closer to the Ivy aesthetic. I'm a big fan of their Vetra blazers
There was a range of new overcoats from Italian brand L’impermeabile. Number of different styles on offer
A rich choc brown suede Harrington caught my eye. Whilst I'm not a fan of Harringtons, the suede material elevated the humble golf jacket into something very special.
Star of the show yesterday was a range of JS branded pop-over shirts on Oxford cloth and corduroy. Although the size of their latest collar is tad too large for my tastes in the popover style they look superb.
Finally, I got the opportunity to look at their new Italian made beefroll loafers. Given the demise in quality of Weejuns the massive variation in Sebago sizing I congratulate JS for tracking down a good alternative. Whilst they are nowhere near as good as their Rancourt loafers they are a very good entry level loafer. The burgundy is the one to go for as the black is too shiney.
My understanding is there going to be a lot to look forward to from John Simons this Autumn. I, for one, can't wait.
Am tempted to pick up another of their corduroy ivy jackets....though, perhaps not entirely surprisingly, I'm not convinced they wear too well as for me they lose a little shape (and the linen jacket is all over the place, needing regular pressing)
I thought they were closed on Mondays ...
^Stax, They are. I posted on Monday having visited "yesterday" what was the Sunday.
They have just posted a pic on Insta showing the pop-overs. I forgot to mention the lovely Miles green Oxford version.
Alvey - I thought after I’d commented on Tuesday morning that you’d probably visited on Sunday..... then again I thought you may have had a private opening of the shop on Monday like Michael Jackson use to have at Harrods !
JS offering Hoxton sta press trousers at £89. A quick search and I found them on offer for £79. Not sure they are for me anyway. I'm going for high rise these days. I can't understand slim fit, low-mid rise, tight fitting etc when many people I see are on the big size
Have a pair of the Real Hoxton sta press. Got to be very careful if you do iron them, or else you`ll have a tramline you can`t iron out.
Ematt, from what I can remember, don't iron your sta press trousers.
Pendleton shirt in the Beach boy style now available from JS. £250!
I wore my Pendleton shirt (bought from Stax) yesterday with a white t shirt and khaki chinos. I had a Champion baseball cap on. 70 going on 20 years old.Ha
Yes mate, although the missus wasn't so convinced about my 'rig' even when I showed her that the JS offering was £250.
Some new Ivy jackets arriving soon, probably the only thing that gets me a bit interested these days,
New Ivy jackets online at JS
Spotted those. Thankfully, none of those really catch my eye (I don't need any more!)...but some nice jackets there, for sure.
They're lovely jackets for sure - the cord and linen ones I have get regular wear. Not 100% perfect for me, but the best thing you can get new these days, for sure.
I too have more than a full Ivy jacket set and only I buy jackets that have something distinctive in fabric such as Austrian loden or Donegal flecks.
Even then, I could not make quite an effort in my work style and nobody would care.
I am pleased for those buying these jackets for the first time.
Likewise, would need to be something really exciting to justify it (and even then...!).
(A lot of 'for sures' in my last post...)
I think all of us old Ivyists are in the same boat as far as Ivy jackets are concerned, we've collected them over the years, they don't wear out, and they suit out dress style,
I think I'd only be tempted if they produce a summer cotton jacket in khaki,
BTW: I was looking at an email from Kamakura in Japan and they now produce a couple of Ivy jackets in grey tweed and green corduroy, US495, they look very good, but of course it would be a faff around to return them if the fit wasn't suitable,
I think Ivy jackets are now the hardest things to get hold of.
Let's face it there are plenty of options for shirts, loafers, trousers, etc. I STRESS I'm not saying it's all good but there are lots of things that an Ivy-ist may consider.
The demise of H&J and J keydge left a hole. The John Simons version is variable dependant upon the cloth.
Ebay is increasingly pricey and risky.
Pennant and Kama look good but like Stax I would worry about the returns. A few years ago I was being chased by HMRC for an Ivy jacket from Orvis in the States that had been long returned but not processed.
The only other item that I struggle to find at a decent price are Shetlands. Yes, lots of options out there but mostly overpriced ( drakes, Anderson and Shepard, Trunk, etc) or too thin (Harley). The cheaper knits are too traditional in shape that you look like a farmer.
The best for fit and texture are usually priced accordingly.
On Sunday I visited John's.
What immediately struck me was that in these days of either too tight/too short tailoring or baggy and shapeless casual wear John Simons remains a bastion for timeless, elegant menswear.
On display were the reassuring mix of button downs, sack jackets and loafers.
Since my last visit they have launched their latest collection of Ivy Jackets. Number of options available including cord, tweed and hopsack but the one that stood out was a Johnstons Of Elgin cashmere.
This year rather than scratchy Harris Tweed they have used Abraham Moon tweed. It's much softer and in my opinion having previously bought the Harris sits better.
Other things of note were the BD Baggies flannel shirts. Again, very soft material. The olive green looked good when paired with the Vetra olive green cord jacket.
I believe a lot more is to come in.
Alvey - did you purchase anything ? Can't imagine you resisted all the new items and came out empty handed !
Stax,
You know me well. Yes, I was overcome by temptation.
I ended up with Vetra trousers in olive to go with the cord jacket I purchased last month.
I'm really pleased with the jacket. It's got this slouchy thing going for it.
As I've never purchased anything olive before it was a bit outside of the Singer Blue comfort Zone. I've been wearing it with navy chinos or jeans with merino polos in burgundy and blue.
I've decided to now wear it as an occasional, relaxed fit suit with Paraboot loafers.
I also purchased a Uniqlo olive merino polo shirt that pairs perfectly with the jacket - might be too much Olive if worn with the suit.
My key acquisition this fall is going to be grey trousers. I have several pairs of wool or wool/cashmere Polo trousers but they're too heavy for the mild winters we now have.
I'm thinking about something like a 10oz wool material.
A couple of new Ivy jackets, nice checks,
BTW : 'All Blues' who stock the Kamakura shirts also have 2 Kamakura Ivy jackets, grey herringbone,(A.Moon cloth I believe), navy corduroy, £395 , all the Ivy details including hook vents, I mentioned these jackets a few weeks ago and the risk of buying direct from Japan but obviously buying from a UK site ( or shop), makes it risk free I'd say, You might think I've got bugger all to do on a very wet Thursday, You'd be right !
I was down in "that London" at the weekend.
Obviously, being weak of will power, I visited JS.
The shop goes from strength to strength. The new check tweeds are superb. Two were wool and one cashmere. each one has its own merits.
As the merino is a slightly thicker cloth anyone interested may need to size up.
The new 'Steve McQueen' glen check jackets look great. A brown base colour for that check always looks less dated than the grey I have. Alas I don't have £500 for a sportcoat but one day might pick one up second hand....
They look great and nice to see JS produce exciting new bits even if I can't afford them/justify them (I sometimes wonder who can??).
Alvey - did your willpower hold up or did you cave in ? !!