Wasn't this at the core of that tension between US and UK Ivy Look enthusiasts a little while ago?
It seems to me all of the UK 'Ivyists' (naff word I know) are of working class origin. Yes, many of us will have degrees and nice cars and nibble on fennel, but our roots, our mindsets, our family histories, are proletarian. There's only one exception I can think of - dear old Frosty Mellor, who was a real one-off, and for all we know may well have been from coal-mining stock so extensive could be his embellishments.
It seems to me most of the US 'Ivyists' are uncomfortable around class, think of themselves as aspirational, and often frame the Ivy Look in vaguely proud, patriotic terms, considering it 'their' thing, rooted in the American experience. Shamrock Monkey in Chicago, a plumber, was an exception, but I think he may have come to the clothes via the popular culture/pop music route, bypassing any of the elitist stuff.
And so, as ever, we speak the same language but completely misunderstand each other.
I would sooner be eradicated than identify as 'middle-class', although I loathe and despise the vast majority of those who are proudly 'working class'. My wife's family has gone from unemployed dock worker to bus duckie/cabbie/unskilled labourer to logistics manager in three generations. Frank from West Derby, George settled in Derby, his son based in London, Texas and Trinidad, and now dividing his time between Calgary and California. Myself, I've worked my way up from being poor to a state of extreme poverty.
Perversely perhaps, as an Ivyist I identify strongly with the Americans.
TRS alludes to Shaw of course. And he's quite right.
I can remember the electric being cut off when I was a kid because Mum and Dad couldn’t afford to pay the bill, so my lot weren’t exactly loaded, nor has anyone ever left me any large sums of money or property to sell off, its never going to happen (good luck to anyone who does inherit though). But I’ve done better for myself than most of my relatives and the majority of the people I went to grammar school with, many of whom went on to do A Levels or degrees. But I wouldn’t fall into the trap of thinking I’m better than any of them or anyone. Superiority whether its intellectual or based on material success is deeply unattractive. I have great respect for the people who do the humdrum jobs for little reward and keep everything going for society. I reserve any hating, loathing or despising for our capitalist masters and their political lackeys.
I suppose I'd be middle class. Just by the fact that I was born in a fairly affluent South East market town in the early 70's and stayed there. Own my own home and drive a decent(ish) car.
All my older relations on my mother's side were road diggers for The Gas Board.
I left education at 16 to work on the roofs, as a builder's mate and eventually a painter and decorator. Right now I'm sitting in an office on my own doing not very much at all. I've earned it. I don't know why, but further education just didn't seem to be an option. Although it must have been circa 1989.
Money's never been a problem. Not because I've ever had any (I haven't) but because I don't care about it. Having said that I've never been hungry or unable to pay the bills, and I'm aware that there are plenty who are in that position through no fault of their own. But I don't see myself as being in any way aspirational. Much to my wife's annoyance.
I'm not uncomfortable around class. There's lots of people with an awful lot of cash round here. They're not particularly difficult to get on with. Similarly, I enjoy being around those who are from, shall we say, a lower league? The type that has nothing, have never been given, or taken, the chance to get ahead, and still feel the need to paint a George cross on their garage door.
Maybe, from somewhere way back in my mind, I'm doing that age old working class thing of 'dressing up to go out'. But I'm not too sure about that. I just like clothes and these are the clothes I like. Goes with the music and film I like. I'm a long way past being proud of it. But I do consider it 'my' thing. On some level I must like that I dress like this, surrounded by people who it appears can make little distinction between bed, gym, or suitable day/evening clothing.
Patriotic? Not at all. I can't really see anything to be patriotic about. I'm not one to get exited or upset by something that occurred out of living memory. But I do like to think I carry a certain amount of 'Englishness' with me. In an old black and white film kind of way.
Ivy is obviously, mostly, rooted in America. As it should be, and should always remain so. But I can't ignore the influence I get from the continent too. It's not always easy to make connections between New York, New England, Paris, Rome and London. But as it's all pretty much fantasy anyway it can be done. We're just not all going to translate it the same way.
I don't think we have to really. If we're all disjointed about what Ivy 'is' then there's no chance of it being the next big thing fashion wise. Which is a good thing I think.
I'm uncertain as to who or what a 'capitalist master' is supposed to be. Branson? Gates? Fred The Shred? Or that cartoon figure with the fat cigar and the top hat?
My parents were aspirational. Of course they were. They owned their first VW by 1964. We took our first foreign holiday, to Liguria, in 1971. Other people were already going abroad. My grandparents were holidaying in Italy by the mid-50s. It was a question of attitude and curiosity as much as aspiration.
I was born working class and clothes wise it meant I didn't have much but what I did have i looked after. Shoes were polished not just for looks but for preservation. Clean shirts ironed properly etc. Pride in appearance was everything. Suited and booted on a Saturday night. I saw hippies as some kind of middle class indulgence and I didn't meet a middle class person until I went to University . Our doctor was Indian and our school teachers were from working class backgrounds made good. I was brought up in a mono culture but I loved it. But I wanted more. Dressing Ivy came naturally. For a time I loved all things American (at least that NE part) and danced to the soul music. I liked the can do attitude and I felt the sky was the limit.
Very droll AFS. Gates and Branson (when he’s not busy suing the NHS) are quite happy to be in the spotlight. But they’re both businessmen who’ve made it big from small beginnings so why wouldn’t they bask in their success. The sector I was thinking of usually prefer to remain in the shadows, no doubt they have their reasons.
Anyway, back to clothes. The posts I saw from Americans on the Ivy Style FB page often seemed to suggest that the style was linked to wealth and success and carried a degree of snob value. Clothing is often worn to give out a message. In the UK the roots of interest in the Ivy style seemed to be more about it being … stylish, the message is quite different.
Well stated points. It goes without saying but dressing in a self-respecting manner today means much more than it did in mid-century NE. The laborers of that time would still wear sport coats for holidays and weekends. There was a stern practicality and utilitarianism to the simplicity of a blazer, button-down and chinos/slacks. If you wanted to express your 'individuality' (i.e vanity) you'd don an ascot or a novel pocket square. There was much less of a desire to make a statement of any sort whatsoever. Of course dressing self-respectably today is quite a statement in itself. One said it is rather punk to dress well today and I thought how bizarre. Indeed how bizarre to be writing about clothing on an online forum. Our forefathers would blush to consider the amount of time and effort we expend on such frivolous endeavours which they gave nary a thought to. Sign of the times for better or worse.
Naturally we owe everything to the British upper classes whom the early US merchant class to the Boston Brahmins nicked in terms of customs, manners and dress. A diluted form of your Lords if you will.
I genuinely think Ivy between the two countries is very different and not necessarily just around class. In the UK Ivy has a bigger set of influences to incorporate such as French Films, Soho Modernism, Contemporary art, architecture and furniture.
I see it as a number of different strands that complement one another based upon a historical time line as much as aesthetics. Yes, you can just be into the clothes, but I know from the very existence of this forum there's a lot of guys who have similar tastes.
My love of the Ivy Clothes is influenced as much by their subtle non-conformity as by their design aesthetics.
When you go into Press you can see a few items similar to John Simons but the way they're presented is very different. More like Cordings or to a lesser extent Hackett. It has an old money feel to it.
Rux nice to see you here. Please note that the quote function doesn't work. You can always copy and paste a quote.
I'm afraid drollery was not quite my intention. As I've said before, some on here witter on like my Sixth Form students years ago, forever railing against capitalism whilst living in the lap of luxury in centrally-heated homes. They tended to behave as though their latest electronic toy had been assembled in a spare moment by former boy soldiers in Angola rather than some geek in California.
The Americans have a class system, too, don't they? Doesn't everyone, more or less? Else a pecking order?
'They tended to behave as though their latest electronic toy had been assembled in a spare moment by former boy soldiers in Angola rather than some geek in California.'
You've lost me here. Vast quantities of the things we buy in the UK are made in poor countries and often the workers are children. Also common is for adult workers to be suffering severe human rights abuses. That's been documented fact for a number of years. Companies always plead ignorance which gets them off the hook.
Justifying the situation by stating that the only alternative would be similar to Soviet Russia doesn't wash.
'The Americans have a class system, too, don't they? Doesn't everyone, more or less? Else a pecking order?'
As far as I know, everywhere in the world the class system refers to how much wealth someone has. Except in the UK, where your social class is to do with where you were educated, how you speak, what your hot drink of choice is and other bizarre factors. Wealth barely comes into it, although of course that's where the whole system derives.
Drinking an espresso in Italy is like having a cup of tea in England i.e. classless and normal. In the UK, drinking an espresso is a sign of being middle or upper class.
AFS - any luxury and central heating I enjoy is paid for through my own effort, so I’m nothing like your 6th formers. Of course there’s a pecking order but benevolent conservatism is dead and buried, replaced by something far more ugly.
Rux - ‘Naturally we owe everything to the British upper classes whom the early US merchant class to the Boston Brahmins nicked in terms of customs, manners and dress. A diluted form of your Lords if you will.’
Another one of those strange twists of fate. A large portion of those upper classes, particularly the ones with inherited stately homes and land, dress like they don’t have two farthings to rub together.
And a big difference between The US and UK; we seem to have developed a system where if you’re doing well for yourself, it’s a best to keep your head down and not shout about it. Certainly not show it off by wearing ‘flashy’ clothes. If you don’t adhere to that there’s an implication that you’ve got no taste. New money.
I really don’t think there’s a British equivalent of The American Dream. Which I think has proved to be very much to our detriment.
Most of the people I saw out and about today looked as if they didn't have two farthings to rub together - at least in terms of dress. There was no shortage of electronic gadgets, though - there never is. I felt slightly overdressed in an overcoat, cashmere sweater and wingtips.
I saw a documentary on TV years ago about potential immigrants to the United States: Cubans mostly. Chap said he didn't envy anyone who owned a Cadillac. If he worked hard he might own a Cadillac himself eventually. Contrast that with a neighbour of mine, who kept a Cadillac outside his front door. You all know what 'keying' is. The English are lousy with hatred and envy. They hate anyone attempting to cross a line. They really don't like it when oiks drink espresso.
Well it doesn’t cost much does it? If the aim is as simple as being fully dressed in public?
Better to spend a pittance on trash from Primark or Sports Direct and spend your money on phone credit or a Sunday lunch at McDonald’s.
Not only do we hate the idea of anyone else bettering themselves. We hate ourselves doing it. Try explaining the concept of inverted snobbery to that Cuban fella
Last edited by Spendthrift (2022-03-01 09:55:52)
I would have to question the whole notion of 'bettering' oneself. We get older, our tastes change, our lives change, but we remain fundamentally shaped by our backgrounds and upbringing. I am no 'better' that my father, an 82 year old man who has never been abroad, purely because I moved to London, and have travelled and have an advanced level wardrobe. I never chased a 'dream', I was just curious and I got lucky on many fronts. Anyone who thinks they have 'done well' in life purely on the basis of their own efforts is seriously deluded.
'Bettering oneself' is a loaded phrase. I like the phrase 'the life of the mind' better, first uttered (in my hearing) by the Marxist Professor Ian Bell, who I had the privilege of knowing between 1989 and 1992, and reiterated by Patricia Bosworth in her superb biography of Diane Arbus. Read 'The Meditations of Marcus Aurelius' if you want to know about your place in this cosmos of ours.
The Quakers say, 'I am better than no man, no man is better than me'.
^ I agree, I eat porridge every morning, always have.
There but for the grace
If we can set the concept of class on one side for a moment, didn't John Simons have something interesting to say about removing an item from its original context and thereby redefining it? A shoe worn by a business executive in the United States thus becomes the footwear of choice for a London boy on his night out.